Not to long ago I installed this awesome center console plate from Black Listed Engineering. Loving it so far and looks great. Unfortunately when I removed the plastic window control plate I found most of the plastic tabs behind the plate where the screws insert to be broken. Thus there is no eay for me to screw in this plate and secure the window control plate. The obviouse option would be to source a used center console. But at around $170 I really dont feel like ripping apart everything. Furthermore these plastic tabs are likely to break soon enough on any used replacement I source anyways so id be back to square one.

Is there any diy solutions out there for making new mounting tabs/brackets? I want my center console window swith panel to be firm in place, solid feel when pressing the buttons and no quirky noises. I trust Im not the only ocd owner on here who cares about these minior quirks, so what have you folks done to address these issues?

PS: My automatic shifter bezel plate also has a broken tab underneath where its suppose to snap into poistion. For something that small I dont mind replacing with new or used replacement.

Thanks in advance.

 

I also bought the Blacklisted plate, specifically because my upper tabs broke and it seemed like the the only option that would get my switches back. In fact, one of the Blacklisted owners posted in a Rover forum somewhere that the plate was designed partly so that you could make do without them.

That said, I still want to fix the tabs. There's still a bit of flex when you use the top switches. And ironically, without those tabs, the new bezel doesn't stay flush against the console, so there's a visible gap there. Kinda the worst of both worlds.

I'm thinking of just affixing some thin metal tabs to the inside of the console with JB Weld. I'll report back if I ever get around to it.

Interesting how your switches seem much more recessed on the far side. Another issue there?

I also see your boots are pretty worn. Mine were, too. If Blacklisted's store ever comes back, you should definitely pick up their replacement boots. I got them and they're really nice.





Blacklisted bezel and boots.

 

Plastic welding.... or buy a new piece.

Look for plastic welding techniques in Youtube. You will find a lot of information.

Hope it helps

 

Took a look for you, all the vendors found seemed to only have switch panel w/o heated seats. #14 and inexpensive.
https://landrovermerriamparts.com/pa...iagram=7104650

One more check searching PN found reference to 7-holer and vendors.
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/FHR100502G

http://www.landroverpartsinternation.../fhr100502.htm
......

 

Thanks for the links. Removing that bezel reveals small tabs with screw holes in them. Its in these holes that the bezel is secured to. They are broken. I dont really want to go through all the hassal of swapping out the entire center console on account of afew small tabs if it can be helped.

Ill check out plastic weld. Still open to other ideas.

 

FYI I was wrong about #14 in first link, #15 should be it from your description and housing PN FHR100502. Good luck on your plastic repair.
......

 

Pop rivets and and aluminum angle or flat bar. Use the very small rivets (they pop before breaking the plastic). The picture is just for show. Mine was all broke up top and bottom but, yours is still basically good. You should be able to do a nice clean job without it showing. It's the most secure way...mine is as stiff as a board now. If you are interested in going this route I'll add more pictures of the underneath.

 

Thanks and please add more pics! Ill want my repair mine to look clean but can utilize your methods. Thanks much.

 

Pet peeve on my D2 as well. Pressing the window switches and feeling that whole panel move is just wrong. Those mounting tabs break on all of our trucks I have a feeling. Poor design but most people live with it.

Post up your solution, I'm sure a few of us OCD'ers would be interested in the fix.

 

I "clamped" the switch mounting plate in place on the top edge using round-head machine screws and thin metal strips.

I looked at the problem and remembered that somewhere in my accumulation of leftover hardware I had these items from some sort of picture mounting setup that came with something I bought years ago and never used.

The metal strips pictured are drilled and tapped, and given their length they bump up against the backs of the window switches to keep them from turning while the screws are tightened. I then used Velcro to keep the bottom edge more or less in place.

The setup has worked well for me and I expect that someone well motivated could improve upon the concept.