She won't start
I also texted it at the stater motor and again it reads 12.35 on cold and when I try to crank it drops to 12.25
I am a little confused by what you mean by the cable hook up. I have two cables but the main which i think is the positive goes to the selenoid and then there is that little Lucar connection that plus in right next to where the other one bolts on.
Thats all I have there and checking the manual it only shows those two cables and nothing attaching to the starter motor itself...
thoughts?
You should have 12.4/12.7 volts at the large wire on the starter all the time...and roughly 12.4 (depending on condition of circuit) at the small wire, once the key is turned to the start position.
If you have 12 volts at the small wire with key in start position, you either have a bad starter or bad ground.
If you don't have 12 volts at the small wire with key in start position, you most likely have a broken wire, fuse blown, bad starter relay or ignition switch issue. You have to determine where the problem is by checking for voltage at the ignition circuit and following it to the starter.
If you have 12 volts at the large wire on the starter, you should be able to jump power across to the little wire with a screwdriver...to see if the starter engages. If it engages, this will at least tell you if you have a good starter and ground.
Good luck,
Brian.
If you have 12 volts at the small wire with key in start position, you either have a bad starter or bad ground.
If you don't have 12 volts at the small wire with key in start position, you most likely have a broken wire, fuse blown, bad starter relay or ignition switch issue. You have to determine where the problem is by checking for voltage at the ignition circuit and following it to the starter.
If you have 12 volts at the large wire on the starter, you should be able to jump power across to the little wire with a screwdriver...to see if the starter engages. If it engages, this will at least tell you if you have a good starter and ground.
Good luck,
Brian.
You should have 12.4/12.7 volts at the large wire on the starter all the time...and roughly 12.4 (depending on condition of circuit) at the small wire, once the key is turned to the start position.
If you have 12 volts at the small wire with key in start position, you either have a bad starter or bad ground.
If you don't have 12 volts at the small wire with key in start position, you most likely have a broken wire, fuse blown, bad starter relay or ignition switch issue. You have to determine where the problem is by checking for voltage at the ignition circuit and following it to the starter.
If you have 12 volts at the large wire on the starter, you should be able to jump power across to the little wire with a screwdriver...to see if the starter engages. If it engages, this will at least tell you if you have a good starter and ground.
Good luck,
Brian.
If you have 12 volts at the small wire with key in start position, you either have a bad starter or bad ground.
If you don't have 12 volts at the small wire with key in start position, you most likely have a broken wire, fuse blown, bad starter relay or ignition switch issue. You have to determine where the problem is by checking for voltage at the ignition circuit and following it to the starter.
If you have 12 volts at the large wire on the starter, you should be able to jump power across to the little wire with a screwdriver...to see if the starter engages. If it engages, this will at least tell you if you have a good starter and ground.
Good luck,
Brian.
Thank for that input - I looked up my battery ( Optima ) and it does say that at fully charged it should be reading at 12.7 to 12.8 - So I will jump charge it a little today to see if I can get those volts up.
However I don't think the volts are the problem as my last battery that I started this thread with ( Duralast Gold ) was cranking the stater at 12v.
Also when I turn the key there is no sound from the starter. So even if the volts where low wouldn't it act like if the battery was dead and it wasn't getting enough power?
I am gonna test Lucar connection with a multimeter as I only tested the Positive cable last night.
I'll report back.
Is there any chance this could be related to a security thing since the truck has sat dead for so long? Been finding interesting things on the spider unit that I'm still wrapping my head around.
jump power across to the little wire with a screwdriver...to see if
You can purchase rather inexpensive remote starter switches for that purpose.
........
Also not to go down the security alarm issue path just yet... but I did notice that when locking the truck with the remote the red dash LED light flickers like crazy before going into a single on and off flash.
Last edited by Ursula; Feb 6, 2017 at 12:03 PM.
Mine does that when ever I lock the doors, non issue for you.


