I have received a pending P1138 code. I have been working on it for a day or so, and still get the pending code back.

I replaced all 4 o2 sensors about 4 months ago and prob put 200 miles on them. Pulled plugs and gap was off so i re gaped them. Wires and plugs have same mileage. Mass air flow sensor has been replace a week ago when i was chasing down an evap leak as i dropped it and cracked a piece off. Fuel pump and filter are both brand new and have 2 weeks on them. I think I'm in need of new cat's because of a rattle i get every now and then.

Would that cause this code?

Here is the readings of my o2 sensors, do they look good or are they reading bad?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/tdwfc54q25...-7-17.pdf?dl=0

 

I'm no expert but everything I've read on 02 sensors says that the second (post cat) sensors shouldn't fluctuate voltage somehow fluctuating voltage means the cats are bad, but I don't know how that works.

 

I am also having the same issues. I have not replaced the O2s, however spark plugs, wires, and coils are all new. I replaced fuel pump about a month ago. Let me know if you find a solution to your problem. None of my bank 1 O2s fluctuate (they are both holding constant ant 1.20) and bank 2 #1 fluctuates

1997 Discover SE - "Helga"

 

As dig into replacing the injectors (3 leaking), I decided to do a intake manifold gasket and valve cover gasket job.

But as I oppened the valves I need to do a head gasket job too.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/up2eeh181...hvY4tAcRa?dl=0

Theses pictures show why. Way to dirty for me.

 

Making fudge and coal. It's not like it's that unusual. Almost every Rover engine I've cracked open to change head gaskets on looked the same, hence why I was cracking it open...... Chemtool the rocker assemblies while the heads are being tanked at the machine shop.

While I'm thinking about it...... you might want to check the con-rod shells while your at it. That type of grunge up top puts allot of carbon through the oil and grinds the shells to copper. I used a standard dial caliper to check journals with and luckily they came out with .010 undersize so I ordered .010 oversized and all was well down below. Helps maintain oil pressure which again reminds me, if you do remove the heads the oil galleys in the block are probably occluded, I used TIG wire and allot of Chemtool/diesel to soften and remove the garbage from the oil galley walls.

 

I will have to admit all of that went over my head... I'm no pro but I hold my own. I will take most anything apart if i can to learn about it, and fix it instead of throwing parts at it. If you have the time and patience to possibly help me through this part, when i get to it, I would love to learn and tackle this part of engine.

 

I have lots of time, patience and experience.

 

Sounds good. Thank you.

Between all the Easter stuff the other half had me doing i managed to pull one head off. Wow what a pain. The hardest part was the damn exhaust manifold locking tabs. But all said in done I did not break any bolts off, but did managed to break 2 sockets.

I am glad i pulled them off, would have a blown gasket soon. cylinder 8 only had the metal ring left on it.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/m22iyjsyt...kwf8mVZ3a?dl=0

Will try and get the drivers side off tomorrow after work.

 

Carbon on the piston crowns isn't too bad, that's a good thing. What's the valve side of the head (combustion chamber) look like? When you're removing the leftover head gasket on the engine block be very careful not to gouge the surface. I used MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) to soften the remaining gasket so it would loose adhesion then used a carbonate plastic scraper (CD case lid sharpened). You can make a hardwood scraper too. Any deep gouges and you can loose the sealing capacity of a new head gasket. Green Scotchbrite is good for removing anything soft.

It's customary to remove the carbon off the piston crowns. Chemtool, MEK, diesel and a brass brush. Again you don't want to deeply gouge. There is a red/brown Scotchbrite pad for metal working, we use it to put grain into stainless at work after a TIG job. They work good for smoothing soft surfaces. Light pressure works best.

Yeah, breaking head bolts loose will test a good breaker bar and sockets. Impact sockets work best but don't fit into the tight corners well. I have some old S&K's 1/2" drive sockets that are like titanium and thin enough, mondo expensive.

 

Combustion side of heads.