I know this topic has been discussed several times but nothing I have read is helping me. Hoping to get some direction here.

Truck was running perfectly and dies without warning. Tried to restart immediately and it stumbled for a few seconds and died again. It has not restarted since.

Two possible avenues to troubleshoot down: fuel supply or ignition.

Fuel supply: Performed pressure test and I have 38 PSI before and during cranking.

Ignition: No spark from coil.

Now that I'm tinking ignition is to blame what should I look at? I replaced plugs, plug wires, cap and rotor a couple hundred miles ago. Pulled cap to look at rotor and found the rotor to be slightly discolored. The black plastic around where the center pin of the cap sits is turning color to grey-ish. Looks like this area got hot at some point. It is a Lucas part but is of the rivet variety. I will replace with a bonded rotor for good measure.

Ignition amplifier module is the next culprit. What's the best way to test this part?

Any other suggestions?

Thanks in advance.

 

after you are satisfied with the cap and rotor.....usually the ignition coil itself, and /or the amplifier module are the usuall culprits, the coils can fail at anytime, the amp modules usually fail when they get hot.....for the purpose of testing and future spare parts to have around.....go get most any 12volt automotive coil and just plug it in.....that should tell you a lot to start with.....you can be brand picky later..

determine if the amp module is mounted to the distributor, or is mounted on the coil bracket.....they were moved to the coil bracket to keep away from the engine heat....it can still fail though...lol

 

Update!

I was able to get a copy of the RAVE manual and followed the diagnostic procedure for ignition. I learned that the coil is providing spark and that spark is grounding through the rotor. A genuine rotor is on order and will be installed. I hope that remedies the situation.

Look for an update early next week.

 

Received the new genuine rotor and now the truck runs great. The replacement rotor is still of the riveted variety instead of bonded. I will keep a spare in the truck for when this one dies.

Now to address the reoccurring code 48 stepper motor issue.

 

If you can't get the stepper motor to work by cleaning the pintle/tip and the housing, then just replace it. But still remember to clean the flametrap and the hoses from it to the stepper motor housing.

Stepper Motors are cheap enough > get a Standard Motor Products AC1 (Rockauto has them for about $36.00, Summit will match, or get one at NAPA etc)) > https://www.summitracing.com/parts/smp-ac1
More Information for STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS AC1

And if your 4 pin connector is F'd up get S555 ( Rockauto about 12.50, Summit $19) > https://www.summitracing.com/parts/smp-s555
More Information for STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS S555

 

I already replaced the stepper motor with a genuine part a couple weeks ago. I am going to pull the stepper motor housing off the back of the plenum to clean it. Hope this helps.

 

When you remove the stepper motor housing make sure to have a new housing gasket ( ERR2926 ) ready to install. If you use the old gasket, and it leaks ... welcome to vacuum leak hell.
> Gasket - Intake/Idle Control (ERR2926 Same Fit As Part # ERR2926 ) - Land Rover gaskets and seals from Atlantic British

You also might want to use a 1/2" stiff Nylon Bottle/Tube Brush to clean the housing. With a little carb/throttle body cleaner the bottle brush is your best friend. Cleans great and it won't remove/scratch the aluminum in the stepper motor housing seat. Good Luck!

 

Ordered a stepper motor housing gasket today. I do have a known good stepper motor that came off my 95 LWB that I can swap in to confirm running symptoms.

One of the first things I did was clean the flame trap, however I did not clean the PCV lines. The T has a rather small orifice and could be clogged. That will be a fun task for this weekend.

Thanks for the info!!

 

Depending how old the Tee is go easy when you remove the hoses. That Tee gets very brittle with age and cracks.
If the Tee is old you may want to just remove the hoses at the flametrap, intake plenum, and throttle body in "one piece" and then clean them all at once. I've done it many time this way. It's a little tricky, but far less headache and effort than if you break the Tee (and don't have a replacement).

 

Removed stepper motor housing and cleaned thoroughly. It was pretty dirty but not too bad. Reinstalled and still have the hunting idle and code 48.

Going to try swapping in another stepper motor to see what happens.

PCV lines were removed and cleaned. Not too much build up in those either.