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Next up, inspection of components and an overview of the new components I'll be fitting (high range gear, intermediate gear cluster, input gear, and of course all new bearings, races and seals)
No, the switches are in parallel for the '04 case:
So if either switch is depressed, the diff lock light will illuminate.
What I don't know at the moment is what connectors my '02 disco has. If I remember correctly, it has only 2 single-lead black plugs.
There are two switches, each switch as a 2-lead plug. The adapter I posted earlier will plug into this, and convert it to 2 separate single-lead plugs. So using 2 adapters, the result is 4 single-lead black plugs that need to be hooked up to the ABS computer.
Hi Jeff,
I just installed an 04 front housing on my 2003 and I am trying to figure out some of the wiring. Is the two plugs simply an "either/or" or does each have a function. I should note that I do have the front switch working and wires to the blue/black wire on pin 7 of C0681. Because the RAVE is limited to the 2003MY it is not clear if there is an additional connection on the 2004. My guess is to simply wire the signal and grounds together for each switch. That way either would trigger the light. I do not have the additional harness.
The one curiosity I have is that I get the light but no audible as per the RAVE explanation.
Dirty parts from the teardown have sat untouched since September. I finally got around to cleaning and organizing them all in prep for the rebuild last month. Hoping to get this finished over the next month or two.
Hung up a bit on special tools to measure preloads correctly. The Land Rover Toolbox youtube channel series is not really that accurate and is out of date from some of the design changes made for the D2 (LT230SE).
I've determined that the D2 Workshop manual (Rave) has a complete rebuild manual for the LT230SE in it, so I'm going to simplify things and ignore the 100+ page LT230Q and T rebuild manuals. Trying to cross reference minute differences will make your head explode.
Input gear preload - this one is pretty easy. Only need a DTI gauge to determine endfloat, and then choose one of half a dozen shim sizes accordingly.
Center diff preload - Requires a 4 piece special tool. I think I found a source on this pretty cheap.
Intermediate gear preload - LR changed designs from a collapsible spacer to a selectable shim design for the LT230SE. Shims range in sizes from 58.325mm to 59.30mm in 0.025mm increments (about 20 sizes). each size costs $20, so its kind of important to have the land rover tool to measure for. I can't find a place to buy the tool anywhere as of now.
All of the other special tools can be substituted for an appropriately sized socket or bearing driver, mainly driving in bearing races, bearings, and oil seals.
Rebuild order
1. Center diff, front/rear housings
2. Input gear
3. Intermediate gear
4. switches, etc
Last edited by Jeff Blake; 04-29-2018 at 10:49 AM.
Contacted Dave @ Ashcroft, he says they use the collapsible spacer so no help there. If I can't source LRT-41-017, the plan is to use the spacer I pulled out of the '04 case, and using tool LRT-41-005 I can measure torque to turn. If out of spec, then I'll have to roll the dice on a few different shim sizes - could get costly - to get the correct number.
So for special tools we have (all related to measuring preload)
LRT-41-005 - attaches to input gear to allow you to hook up a torque meter and measure preload on all of the combined shafts
LRT-41-014 - 4 piece tool to measure for the correct bearing shim on the differential. You could probably do without this, by dissembling a few times and measuring torque, but I found it for 40 bucks so I bought it.
LRT-41-017 - setting pillar to determine correct shim on the intermediate shaft. Can't find this tool.
DTI gauge (and some sort of way to attach to aluminum. magnetic base won't be helpful)
Torque meter - analog or digital
Micrometers
Calipers
Assorted sockets, bearing race drivers, punches, etc
Special tool is not going to happen, but I thought of an alternative way... pretty simple really. The whole point of the tool is to measure the space between the inner bearing tracks on the intermediate shaft. So I'll take the old intermediate shaft, cut off a top portion of it to get a length of approx 4" (not including the head of the shaft). Then, use a micrometer to measure total length of the shaft, minus the head length, to get the working length of the shaft. Substitute that measurement for the one in the manual (103.554 mm), and proceed according to manual using the DTI gauge.
I'll need to buy a bigger micrometer - ouch - and hopefully the shaft can be cut down with an angle grinder.
Or I can play the guessing game. Which isn't too bad, because I can still measure for the torque to turn value which is the ultimate goal, and then guess at shim sizes until I get the right one. WHICH, might end up costing the same amount of money with each shim costing $20 a pop.
Found something a bit peculiar with the hi-low selector shaft. The manual says '03 and later models were fitted with a spring assisted return, however none of the parts catalogs show this anywhere, and both '04 cases I tore down had the 'earlier' version, i.e. no spring. It's a mystery.
09-27-2017, 10:47 PM
