Dash/intrument lights & RH Tail lights not working
#1
01-28-2014, 12:05 AM
Dash/intrument lights & RH Tail lights not working
Gents,
I am most certainly stuck on this one and would appreciate any help the forum can offer.
Got a 96 D1 SE7 with 176k. Up until last week I had everything working on it. Just recently the rear RH tail lamp, rear side markers and instrument lights stopped working. Some of the dash lights still work; e.g., high beam indicator, check engine, other idiot lights. The main illumination however is out. Glovebox light is also out.
Other working lights/electronics include the (interior) front/rear overhead light as well as door chime, headlamps high & low beam, front/rear/side turn signals (both sides), backup lights, and LH tail/brake light and LH rear marker lights.
I've read this same issue as I describe happen is common because apparently the RH tail lamp and instrument light is on the same circuit. Also read common root cause is with the turn signal stalk. RH tail lamp likes to retain water so that was also suspect in my case.
Here's what I've tried:
1.) Checked all fuses under the dash. First with continuity, then with multitool, then by pulling each one and visually inspecting. All the fuses are good. Same for the fuses under the hood.
2.) I took apart the signal stalk and everything appeared okay. I didn't see any discoloration or crud on the plug as most report. Also, the female clips on the plug appear to be tight. I cant seem to tighten them down anymore so assume they are okay.
3.) Replaced the stalk with a used part. This didn't work. No difference. I tried another used stalk (on chance my pull was bad). Still no difference. Both stalks were from D2s but I read these were interchangeable and both look act the same as my original.
4.) I checked the green/brown wire to pin #3 on the stalk plug and confirmed this is pulling 12V.
5.) Pulled out both tail lamp assemblies (a lot of fun in a D1). Swapped known good LH bulb/holder to the passenger side. Still no lights.
6.) Replaced dimmer dial with used part. No difference.
7.) Read a post where someone fixed this issue by identifying a 'bad ground' in the driver side foot well. I pulled the trim panel and can see the ground stud but everything looks tidy. Not sure what I'm looking for here.
8.) I used multi tool to check for power going to RH tail/marker/bumper lights. I don't seem to have power to the rear RH side. No volts detected at any of these points.
So...what should I try next?
PS...wife got me membership to LR Club of Houston and pass to 2014 SCARR for Xmas. This will be my first SCARR. Would like to get my truck working right and back in one piece so we can break some stuff together in March.
I am most certainly stuck on this one and would appreciate any help the forum can offer.
Got a 96 D1 SE7 with 176k. Up until last week I had everything working on it. Just recently the rear RH tail lamp, rear side markers and instrument lights stopped working. Some of the dash lights still work; e.g., high beam indicator, check engine, other idiot lights. The main illumination however is out. Glovebox light is also out.
Other working lights/electronics include the (interior) front/rear overhead light as well as door chime, headlamps high & low beam, front/rear/side turn signals (both sides), backup lights, and LH tail/brake light and LH rear marker lights.
I've read this same issue as I describe happen is common because apparently the RH tail lamp and instrument light is on the same circuit. Also read common root cause is with the turn signal stalk. RH tail lamp likes to retain water so that was also suspect in my case.
Here's what I've tried:
1.) Checked all fuses under the dash. First with continuity, then with multitool, then by pulling each one and visually inspecting. All the fuses are good. Same for the fuses under the hood.
2.) I took apart the signal stalk and everything appeared okay. I didn't see any discoloration or crud on the plug as most report. Also, the female clips on the plug appear to be tight. I cant seem to tighten them down anymore so assume they are okay.
3.) Replaced the stalk with a used part. This didn't work. No difference. I tried another used stalk (on chance my pull was bad). Still no difference. Both stalks were from D2s but I read these were interchangeable and both look act the same as my original.
4.) I checked the green/brown wire to pin #3 on the stalk plug and confirmed this is pulling 12V.
5.) Pulled out both tail lamp assemblies (a lot of fun in a D1). Swapped known good LH bulb/holder to the passenger side. Still no lights.
6.) Replaced dimmer dial with used part. No difference.
7.) Read a post where someone fixed this issue by identifying a 'bad ground' in the driver side foot well. I pulled the trim panel and can see the ground stud but everything looks tidy. Not sure what I'm looking for here.
8.) I used multi tool to check for power going to RH tail/marker/bumper lights. I don't seem to have power to the rear RH side. No volts detected at any of these points.
So...what should I try next?
PS...wife got me membership to LR Club of Houston and pass to 2014 SCARR for Xmas. This will be my first SCARR. Would like to get my truck working right and back in one piece so we can break some stuff together in March.
#2
01-28-2014, 12:39 AM
#4
01-28-2014, 07:58 AM
Well, this has been my go to answer when the main dash lights and taillights are out. It's the left side light stalk switch. I bought a car and the dash lights and rear running lights(the ones that are on when the headlights are on) were not working. I refurbed the light stalk switch and it fixed both problems.
#8
01-28-2014, 11:47 AM
Guys,
Thanks for the input!
1.) How can I diagnose if the 7 pin plug is bad? Again, I have confirmed there is 12V on pin#3 coming into this. What else should I verify on the plug? The female clips all appear to be tight.
2.) I misunderstood the 'continuity check' process. Is this different than just checking the fuses? How do I do a continuity check at the fuse panel having the fuses pulled?
3.) What does a 'bad ground' mean and how do I check for this? Does anyone know where the grounding point for this circuit it? I thought it was at the driver side footwell. As said, I visually inspected and things look okay. Is there a test I should do at this grounding pioint?
4.) Bat is testing at 12.3V with car off and 13.3 when charging. Doesn't this confirm the alternator is okay? People have said follow the wires back from the alternator but what am I looking for?
Thanks for the input!
1.) How can I diagnose if the 7 pin plug is bad? Again, I have confirmed there is 12V on pin#3 coming into this. What else should I verify on the plug? The female clips all appear to be tight.
2.) I misunderstood the 'continuity check' process. Is this different than just checking the fuses? How do I do a continuity check at the fuse panel having the fuses pulled?
3.) What does a 'bad ground' mean and how do I check for this? Does anyone know where the grounding point for this circuit it? I thought it was at the driver side footwell. As said, I visually inspected and things look okay. Is there a test I should do at this grounding pioint?
4.) Bat is testing at 12.3V with car off and 13.3 when charging. Doesn't this confirm the alternator is okay? People have said follow the wires back from the alternator but what am I looking for?
Last edited by zigzag3141; 01-28-2014 at 12:01 PM.
#10
01-28-2014, 02:30 PM
I just refurbed the stalk. This didn't fix anything.
Went to start it and now it wont start. Turns over but wont fire up.
Bat is now at 11.8V from all the toying with lights I've done on this thing.
Will try and jump her in a bit and try anything new you guys can think of.
What should I try / look for next (besides an enormous repair bill)?
Went to start it and now it wont start. Turns over but wont fire up.
Bat is now at 11.8V from all the toying with lights I've done on this thing.
Will try and jump her in a bit and try anything new you guys can think of.
What should I try / look for next (besides an enormous repair bill)?