Gutting a low range lock-out solenoid. - Land Rover Forums

hh65flyer · #1 12-19-2011, 05:41 PM

So how do you do it? I have the solenoid removed (see pics).

Do you just remove the small plunger in the center or everything? What about the electrical connection?

I pulled this while trying to track down the issue with my low range not wanting to work. Thanks to another poster (Danny Lee?) I learned about this little jewel. I thought it would be easier to check out than removing the entire shift mech. Turned out to be fairly easy to get to and remove.

Once on the bench I applied 12v to it and nothing happens. Went back to the LR, stuck some vise grips on the H/L lever and wiggled it a few times. Then 'pop', works like a hot knife through butter now!

I assume the connector just in front of the solenoid lights a light or tells the ECU we are in low range (or both). That will off course stay but what to do with this other stuff?

I'm inclined to just pull the small plunger out of the middle and bolt it all back up. Thanks guys. Matt

threalassmikeg · #2 12-19-2011, 05:56 PM

You Got It! Take the whole plunger solenoid out. and put the cover back on with a bead of permatex "right stuff" silicone sealer. done. No one will ever know it's missing but you.

hh65flyer · #3 12-19-2011, 06:07 PM

What about the chassis connector? Just seal it off? No funky lights or problems with that?

tornado_735 · #4 12-19-2011, 07:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hh65flyer

What about the chassis connector? Just seal it off? No funky lights or problems with that?

Nope!

Way off topic, awesome screenname. Dolphin is one of my favorite birds..when I was younger, I tried to join the CG to be SAR, but the recruiter wasn't very helpful. After a while he stopped returning my calls.

Danny Lee 97 Disco · #5 12-19-2011, 07:41 PM

I would cap off that connector, or tape it good to keep anything from getting in it.

From what I have seen done by others, you can just reinstall tthe cover and leave the works out. And seal it with a bead of rtv.

Spike555 · #6 12-19-2011, 08:04 PM

Will the connector fit inside the "hole" so it can be sealed shut?
Then the connector will be nice and dry and clean and safe?

hh65flyer · #7 12-19-2011, 09:32 PM

Tornado...thanks. Been retired from USCG for about three years now. Now I rescue Land Rovers! LOL.

That's a good idea Spike, I need to check the length of the wiring to see if it will fit under the cover (I don't think it's long enough though). You know that area seems to be bathed in gear oil so may not be the best spot now that I think of it.

At this point I'm thinking I will try to remove the small plunger in the center and put the rest back together.

hilltoppersx · #8 12-20-2011, 06:27 AM

Did you drop the shaft remove the brake drum and access it that way? Or through the console? I couldn't reach mine through the console cuz my hands are too big

hh65flyer · #9 12-20-2011, 09:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hilltoppersx

Did you drop the shaft remove the brake drum and access it that way? Or through the console? I couldn't reach mine through the console cuz my hands are too big

I went through the console. It's a PIA but pretty straight forward. You have to drill out some rivets under the auto-shifter then there is a lot of room to really see what is going on.

I had a new thought this AM of cutting off the wiring after the solenoid connector but before the solenoid itself. That way the OEM plug stays clean and dry. I'll either shove the wiring into the cap or silicon and tape it up well.

hilltoppersx · #10 12-20-2011, 09:50 AM

yeah i have had my console out about 20 times. the last time i was actually trying to get this solenoid out and just couldnt get it, so i was debating trying it from underneath or just cutting an access panel in the pass side footwell and then reseal it.