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Massive play in 1997 disco I Steering

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Old 11-02-2011, 01:35 AM
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Default Massive play in 1997 disco I Steering

I have a 1997 Discovery I that has horrible play in the steering wheel. Im talking like 4in plus. Also shakes when going above 70mph. I know my tie rod ends are shot but when you grab them they seem solid, but when I grab the rod connected to the pitman arm, I can move that up and down slightly. Also when I hit bumps it makes a clunking noise.

I know I have alot of suspension issues but just wondering is anyone can pin point what my issue is. I have new tie rod ends on the way, but just wondering if theres any tricks to find out whats wrong.
 
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Old 11-02-2011, 04:45 AM
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You sure it is safe to keep driving that thing if you are so close to loss of control?
 
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Old 11-02-2011, 07:44 AM
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Yeah, it's called "Death Wobble".

Raise the front, grab a tire, pull and push, 12 and 6 is swivel joint, 9 and 3 is tie rods. Do both sides. It's better to have an assistant hump the tire with you watching the offending parts. If you feel/see ANY play, adjustment/replacement is in short order. ALSO, you will want to check your wheel bearings, most of the time the bearings are ok (could use a greasing) but the adjustment nut on the stub is clank, clank.....loose.

Good luck on your mission if you so choose. This thread will self destruct in 5, 4, 3, 2, 1.............poof.
 

Last edited by ihscouts; 11-02-2011 at 07:49 AM.
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Old 11-02-2011, 07:54 AM
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Your pucker factor will move up a notch if you brake while taking a sharp curve like expressway exit at speed.

Paul Grant provided this insight a few weeks ago:

A steering damper does not CAUSE problems. It can MASK problems but it's job is very limited.

Rovers didn't even have steering dampers with any regularity until the mid 1970's

If, in fact you are experiencing a "death wobble' then inspect the bushings in the panhard rod and radius arms. Take a careful look at all the tie rod ends and make sure nothing is loose. Look for any damage to the tie rods themselves. Lift the wheels and see if they move when you grip them a 12 and 6 o'clock as well as at 3 and 9 o'clock. If all checks out THEN proceed to the next step of adjusting the swivel pre load and perhaps replacing the swivel bearings.

Once you have checked and done the needed repairs, replace the damper but before you do, take the truck for a ride and you'll see how little that part comes into play in this equation.

Good luck.
 
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Old 11-02-2011, 11:47 AM
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With the wheels on the ground have someone move the steering wheel back and forth.
While they are doing that start with the steering wheel to steering gearbox shaft and find where there is movement on the steering wheel side of a connection and none, or less, on the road wheel side of the connection.

Obviously your ball joints (tie rod ends) are bad. But it could be (probably is) also any combination of:
  • Steering shaft u-joint loose on shaft or steering gearbox (least likely)
  • Internal play in steering gearbox (adjusting nut on top)
  • Loose pitman arm
  • Loose steering box mounting bolts (or any other loose bolts in the steering system)
  • Ball joints (you're addressing)
  • Panhard rod fixings/bushings (Not directly connected to steering, but centralizes axle with chassis to prevent relative side to side movement)
  • Loose wheel bearings
  • Swivel pin preload
Other worn suspension bushings will contribute, as will worn tires (which they probably are if the steering is that sloppy)
Check everything in the list and make sure they are all up to par. If the problem persists then you need to adjust the swivel pin preload. Given the condition of your steering I'd go for a rebuild rather than just removing shims which is nearly always only a short term fix anyway.

You can do the testing while you wait for the ball joints, but you're going to have to do it again when you install them.
 

Last edited by antichrist; 11-02-2011 at 11:50 AM.
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Old 11-03-2011, 02:56 AM
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Will check out more tomorrow. I know It started acting up after a night of partying and jumping the driveway.
Also again when I move the shaft connected to the pitman arm I hear a clunking noise, like a quieter clunk from when I hit bumps.
Also wonders if you'd replace the pitman arm or the balljoint that connects it to the gearbox or both?
 
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Old 11-03-2011, 02:58 AM
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Also tires are wearing perfect and I have replacement swaybar bushings too. Hopefully one of these cheaper parts fix it. Love this truck and would hate for it to turn into a money pit.
 
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Old 11-03-2011, 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by adamlanders
Also tires are wearing perfect and I have replacement swaybar bushings too. Hopefully one of these cheaper parts fix it. Love this truck and would hate for it to turn into a money pit.
A bought used one can be... I paid 1800 for mine it had 142K, list of issues are items I fixed that are in my sig. Pending ones are what you have, head gasket job and alignment. I think that's it for me.
 
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Old 11-03-2011, 08:04 AM
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Most Rovers are quite capable of becoming a money pit so deep you'll need low range to climb out of it, followed by euphoria, I'll keep it forever, soon followed by the next big money pit in the road. Despair, repair, repay charge card, repeat....
 
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Old 11-03-2011, 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by antichrist
Obviously your ball joints (tie rod ends) are bad. But it could be (probably is) also any combination of:
Steering shaft u-joint loose on shaft or steering gearbox (least likely)
Internal play in steering gearbox (adjusting nut on top)
Loose pitman arm
Loose steering box mounting bolts (or any other loose bolts in the steering system)
Ball joints (you're addressing)
Panhard rod fixings/bushings (Not directly connected to steering, but centralizes axle with chassis to prevent relative side to side movement)
Loose wheel bearings
Swivel pin preload
Nice list! I definitely need to tackle this also
 


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