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War on Misfires

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  #11  
Old 02-13-2012, 09:36 AM
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I've seen several posts of
members who used the Ford long term and reported equal or better than performance. Some posts indicated valves but that is moot in your case. One step higher heat Champions also helped remove the code but that in my opinion is only a bandaid fix since it doesn't address the cause of over fueling.
 
  #12  
Old 02-13-2012, 09:57 AM
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https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...l-plugs-36444/

This thread may shed some light on the different issues involved with fuel injectors and plugs. It is an epic threat that ends in a new ECU after a TON of educated trial and error.

comparison bosch 24 multec lucas bosch3 bosch yellowtop bosch22 - YouTube
 
  #13  
Old 02-13-2012, 10:09 AM
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1313 and 1314 are for failed cats, which the 02 sensors have picked up on, That in turn can cause lean or rich runs and maybe explain the 0300 misfires.
 
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Old 02-13-2012, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Disco Mike
1313 and 1314 are for failed cats, which the 02 sensors have picked up on, That in turn can cause lean or rich runs and maybe explain the 0300 misfires.
P1313 is for a misfire that damages the cat, not for a bad cat the causes a misfire.
 
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Old 02-13-2012, 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by EricTyrrell
Codes P0300 P1313 P1314
When you rebuilt your engine, did you do a full valve job? Or at least clean all of the carbon off the valve stems?
 
  #16  
Old 02-13-2012, 10:25 AM
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CATs are gone now and made no difference to misfires.

Yes full valve job.
 
  #17  
Old 02-13-2012, 11:18 AM
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Any chance that your timing could be off, either from cam shaft position sensor, or wiring to crank shaft position sensor being reversed (that places it 3 degrees off)? Perhaps compare your scanner readings for many things at idle to those from other guys with a 97 D1?

Any chance it could be a failing vehicle speed sensor? The ECU may use the speed to compute parameters used in the misfire monitoring. Would suppose if codes cleared, and don't come back for idle only, followed by an overnight cool off period, followed by another crank up / warm up (simulating two drive cycles) might point to that.

How about metal trash on the nose of the crank position sensor? Or it being slightly out of alignment?

How about you fogettaboutdit and go finish that shopping for SWMBO - an no roses in a jug of Rotella this time... lol.
 
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Old 02-13-2012, 12:12 PM
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I can summarize that "something" was brought over from the pre rebuilt to the post rebuilt. Wether that be sensor, ECU or injector. I know the mileage was high enough on the pre rebuilt motor that the it still needs to be addressed. The variables on the ECM's are wide but not wide enough to account for the intermittent over fueling. A check of the ECM's PCB for corrosion would help in regards to Walt's post. Without a T4 or Autologic it's a crap shoot on what electrical part is the culprit. A Mega Squirt III (SFI) would alleviate the diag hookup and give owner control but that's beyond the scope of investigation at this time.

I primarily start with a tight mechanical condition and work outward to the electrical since it's a crap shoot to jump ordinary logical mechanics without use of diag system. I know for a fact the motor is within spec mechanically except for the plenum (mechanical throttle controls) and the injectors. High mileage wear on either of these components put the mechanical spec condition in question where stoichiometric mixture is concerned.
 
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Old 02-13-2012, 04:41 PM
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Could be wiring if PO switched them. CKPS looks good and tip is very clean, but not ruling it out yet. Alignment looks good too.

SWMBO is happy as long as there's a steady flow of flowers and kittens


I water sealed the ECU recently and it looks brand new. Absolutely no corrosion inside or out.

Mega Squirt III....hmmm don't temp me

The more I think about it the more I suspect the injectors. I always noticed the fuel pressure never lasted too long, and it does seem to run a little rich.

With that said, I'm trying something new with the injectors that I'm not sure anyone's tried. Bosch Gen 3 injectors for Volvos. Bosch part 0280155746. Gen 2 0280150973's would have worked great, but after seeing spray patterns I wanted the popular Gen 3 0280155700's. The problem with the 0280155700's is they don't have a slot for the retaining clip. So after scouring nearly the whole line of Bosch injectors spec sheets and photos I found the 0280155746.

 

Last edited by EricTyrrell; 02-13-2012 at 04:44 PM.
  #20  
Old 02-13-2012, 04:51 PM
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Not sure where you are looking, but these are a pretty good price.
http://www.fuelinjector.citymaker.com/catalog/edit_catalog_items.cfm/4511825
 


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