Just my experience, mind ya.
I had same problem and read the option b instructions. I did mine a little different than the write up.
I removed the shuttle valves as per instructions, there was no signs of leakage on valves and they tested fine.
I cut the wires and soldered, shrink wrapped two wires and ran down and out of the assy and reinstalled the shuttle assy, lowered the abs back into place.
The two wires that attached to the shuttle valves go to ground and the other to the wire indicated in the harness attached to the abs.
I used Posi-tap connectors and attached 1 wire to the black ground wire coming out of the abs(right below the multiwire connector) and the other to the correct wire out of the multi-wire harness. I did not cut the wire as per instructions, just tapped into it. Very simple and no need to ground one wire to body, which has been known to be problematic with some. Have not had an amigo show up since. If your valves are covered in brake fluid, then it would be time for new shuttle valves and seals. If they are not, then the fluid is not an issue, just the faulty connections inside the abs, which the option b, will solve.

 

Ok, great points. Thanks! One thing I did not realize until now. I read a ton on the shuttle valves. I thought 100% of shuttle valve failure was always because brake fluid made it past the seals. I thought option B just bypassed the shuttle valve so it no longer mattered if brake fluid passed the seals or not.

Now I see. A shuttle valve can fail either due to a simple electrical failure OR brake fluid leaking OR both.

Got it.

 

Glad you got it. So many don't.

The seals and the switches can be just fine and still the failed circuit board triggers the Three Amigos. Based on reading these forums for many years, and on my personal experience, I think that's the case more often than not.

A lot of people decide to go ahead and replace the seals or the switches, or both, while they have the unit disassembled, but in my case there was no indication of brake fluid leaking and the switches tested fine, per Josh's instructions, so I did the Option B bypass only. Five years later all is well.

With so much misunderstanding and misinformation out there I wonder how many people have installed new switches and/or new seals without doing the Option B bypass only to still have the Three Amigos. That would suck; they spent the money and still need to take apart the unit again to do the bypass.

 

Guys, OP here. I'm trying to avoid taking out the whole unit and bleeding brakes as well. Too cold here to go through all that! I want to just do option B.
Does the fact that I got the 040 code as well DEFINITELY mean that I need to replace seals and svs?

Thanks!!

 

I don't see why. The 040 code is for an open relay.

Look in the engine compartment fuse box and pull the ABS relay (R10 in the attached picture from the DII Electrical Library PDF). Replace it with one of the same color and size you don't need temporarily (e.g. R3-Headlamp Powerwash or R4-Cooling Fan). See if that clears the 040 code. I've also read that the 114-SVS code can somehow trigger the 040.

Just do Option B and see what happens, while of course inspecting for any brake fluid leaking past the seals and onto the switches and testing resistance of the switches as outlined in Josh's instructions.

 

Did mine today. Just lifted up the unit and did option b. No fluid traces at all. Props to the dude who loc-tite sealed those allen key bolts. Using the cut off 4mm hex in a socket was super helpful. Slow getting bolts out, faster going back in. Test drive with no amigos. Sanded the chasis at the ground bolt and cleaned with MAF cleaner for good contact. Happy so far.

 

Hoo. Ray. !!!

 

Good on ya mate

 

Thank you all for such an amazing forum and great feedback. My wife says I am now "in a relationship" with the Rover.

 

The old "Love/Hate" relationship. My wife says I am in a cult.