Hey guys, first post here, and have recently become the owner of a 2002 Disco II SD. I've been lurking around for a while trying to find an answer to my front window issue. The rear windows work (typically means BCU from what I've learned).

The front windows do not. Central locking works, no sunroofs on the vehicle. Everything seems to work fine minus the front windows.

Just pulled a door panel and measured 9.7V at the motor when the window switch is depressed. Should be seeing around 12V, correct? There is a relay clicking sound coming from near the BCU when the switch is depressed. I have removed and inspected the BCU in depth. No broken solder or anything out of place.

EDIT: With connector unplugged, I get a reading of 12V at the connector. Once plugged in, I get 9.7V. 12V directly to the motor does nothing. Looks like a bad wiring job on a new motor may be the culprit.

Does this point to the BCU being the culprit? Maybe an internal failure of sorts? Any info is appreciated.

Am pretty confident in my soldering skills as well, so if there is a DIY to BCU repair, could someone be so kind as to share a link?

Only reason for posting is that all of the threads I have run across never have a clear solution to the issue, and everyone is left asking what the fix was.

I appreciate any help, and look forward to this challenge of owning a Disco.

 

sounds like a new motor is needed.

have not had a chance to pull mine apart yet to see if it is the motor or the slides. Switches seemed to be OK

 

Couple of things... Briefly apply the 12V direct to one motor terminal and good ground to its other to confirm motor health. Then reverse connections.
Watchout ! -Window could be mechanically stuck too, bringing the voltage down to 9.7V you measured.

Try another relay (as from a rear window circuit) to confirm its health. Cannot remember now if the clicking can be from a thermal circuit breaker and not a relay, activating as the motor is fighting against a stuck window.

Come back with findings.

 

Hey guys, sorry for the late reply. Don't want this to be like those "other" threads lol.

In my case, I pulled the motor out of the passenger side (have yet to diagnose the driver side), and noticed the gear was not turning, which would cause the voltage drop I was seeing.

Pulled the motor apart, and the motor winding was RUSTED to the magnets, leaving the motor 100% seized.

I have zero clue how this would have happened, but since the symptoms are the same on the driver side, I can only assume it has met the same fate.

So, check your window motors for corrosion!

Now time for those P1884 and P0102 codes....

 

Replaced the passenger motor, and the window now works. However, there is no stop on the way down.

 

What do you mean there is no stop exactly? Someone correct me if wrong but the regulator controls how far it goes down not the motor itself. I cant remember exactly but the regulator has a half circle gear with teeth that has a stopper at the bottom which when the arm of the window hits causes a load on the motor which causes it to stop, or i think it works something like that. The stopper on mine was bent and my window would sometime go past it and was a pain to get back up and caused me to put some scratches in the tint. I know I ended up replacing the motor and regulator in mine