California Emissions Testing
#1
02-19-2014, 08:23 PM
California Emissions Testing
Hey all,
I recently took my 2003 Discovery 2 in for emissions testing, and passed all of the tests... Except "OBD System Checks". I see there's a note below all of the passed/failed tests stating "This vehicle did not pass the OBD system check because it's OBD system was not ready to test."
I have an Ultra Gauge connected for daily driving, which the testing crew was asking about(it had to be disconnected to attach their diagnostic equipment). Has anyone seen something similar? I cleared a code yesterday during the process of trying to check it(bumped the lousy button while switching through the Ultra Gauge menu).
It looks like there's a possible cycle of driving that might be required to have the system check as ready to test, if these guys are to be believed:
SERVICE DRIVE CYCLE
While each of the OBD II monitors is often completed during the course of normal driving, there is a way to be sure they run in a single driving session. This is called the Service Drive Cycle, and is of value to technicians diagnosing OBD II concerns.
Plan a test route that will allow you to accomplish the tasks listed. Obey posted speeds and all traffic laws.
1. Allow vehicle to cold soak until coolant temperature is less than 60°C (140°F ).
2. START engine.
3. Idle for approximately 8 minutes . Diagnostics for misfire, sensors and actuators will run and produce an outcome. An additional test requiring the engine to run for a total of 15 minutes is present. Idling is the most efficient way to achieve this.
4. Shift into Drive. Accelerate up an incline at wide open throttle to maintain a high engine load for approximately 10 seconds . This allows Neutral/Drive switch and Vehicle Speed diagnostics to take place.
5. Drive on and off the throttle so that a total of 40 gear changes take place. (Shifts from Park to Drive or Drive to Neutral don't count toward this total).
6. Accelerate to 35 - 45 mph and maintain this speed at a steady load for approximately 3 minutes . This allows fuel trim adaptations and catalyst monitoring to take place.
7. Slow to idle and place the transmission in Park.
8. Bring the engine to 1500 - 2000 RPM for approximately 1 minute .
9. Idle for 2 minutes , then turn ignition to OFF.Thoughts?
I recently took my 2003 Discovery 2 in for emissions testing, and passed all of the tests... Except "OBD System Checks". I see there's a note below all of the passed/failed tests stating "This vehicle did not pass the OBD system check because it's OBD system was not ready to test."
I have an Ultra Gauge connected for daily driving, which the testing crew was asking about(it had to be disconnected to attach their diagnostic equipment). Has anyone seen something similar? I cleared a code yesterday during the process of trying to check it(bumped the lousy button while switching through the Ultra Gauge menu).
It looks like there's a possible cycle of driving that might be required to have the system check as ready to test, if these guys are to be believed:
SERVICE DRIVE CYCLE
While each of the OBD II monitors is often completed during the course of normal driving, there is a way to be sure they run in a single driving session. This is called the Service Drive Cycle, and is of value to technicians diagnosing OBD II concerns.
Plan a test route that will allow you to accomplish the tasks listed. Obey posted speeds and all traffic laws.
1. Allow vehicle to cold soak until coolant temperature is less than 60°C (140°F ).
2. START engine.
3. Idle for approximately 8 minutes . Diagnostics for misfire, sensors and actuators will run and produce an outcome. An additional test requiring the engine to run for a total of 15 minutes is present. Idling is the most efficient way to achieve this.
4. Shift into Drive. Accelerate up an incline at wide open throttle to maintain a high engine load for approximately 10 seconds . This allows Neutral/Drive switch and Vehicle Speed diagnostics to take place.
5. Drive on and off the throttle so that a total of 40 gear changes take place. (Shifts from Park to Drive or Drive to Neutral don't count toward this total).
6. Accelerate to 35 - 45 mph and maintain this speed at a steady load for approximately 3 minutes . This allows fuel trim adaptations and catalyst monitoring to take place.
7. Slow to idle and place the transmission in Park.
8. Bring the engine to 1500 - 2000 RPM for approximately 1 minute .
9. Idle for 2 minutes , then turn ignition to OFF.
#2
02-19-2014, 09:14 PM
#3
02-19-2014, 09:59 PM
You are talking about going through the monitors.
As the learn and adaption takes place monitors get closed.
On Fed D2's there are 5 monitors that will close including the sec Air System I believe and haven't checked recently but Calif Spec has seven!!!
To do a quick check you cannot do a better job than buy a CReader by Launch.
It is quite cheap for what it does and will show you when the monitors have closed.
V/T
As the learn and adaption takes place monitors get closed.
On Fed D2's there are 5 monitors that will close including the sec Air System I believe and haven't checked recently but Calif Spec has seven!!!
To do a quick check you cannot do a better job than buy a CReader by Launch.
It is quite cheap for what it does and will show you when the monitors have closed.
V/T
#4
02-20-2014, 07:42 PM
Pro Wrench
When you cleared that code yesterday, it did reset the monitors. It's not an UltraGauge issue.
You do need to complete the drive cycle before you can be tested again. It will happen after driving a few days to a week, or you can use that method in your first post, IF it is actually the one for your vehicle. Different vehicles have different drive cycles. Verify if that one is correct for your vehicle.
My Actron Scanner will tell me when each of the monitors have finished checking, so I don't accidentally test without being ready (Paying Twice!). You might get a Parts Store (AutoZone, Napa, etc) to check them for you for free. They usually have a model that shows those monitor's state.
California USED to allow one or two of them to be unchecked, but now, they require ALL to be completed.
These are out of RAVE (I'm not sure which one applies):
You do need to complete the drive cycle before you can be tested again. It will happen after driving a few days to a week, or you can use that method in your first post, IF it is actually the one for your vehicle. Different vehicles have different drive cycles. Verify if that one is correct for your vehicle.
My Actron Scanner will tell me when each of the monitors have finished checking, so I don't accidentally test without being ready (Paying Twice!). You might get a Parts Store (AutoZone, Napa, etc) to check them for you for free. They usually have a model that shows those monitor's state.
California USED to allow one or two of them to be unchecked, but now, they require ALL to be completed.
These are out of RAVE (I'm not sure which one applies):
Code:
Drive cycles The following are the TestBook drive cycles: ⇒ Drive cycle A: 1 Switch on the ignition for 30 seconds. 2 Ensure engine coolant temperature is less than 60°C (140°F). 3 Start the engine and allow to idle for 2 minutes. 4 Connect TestBook and check for fault codes. ⇒ Drive cycle B: 1 Switch ignition on for 30 seconds. 2 Ensure engine coolant temperature is less than 60°C (140°F). 3 Start the engine and allow to idle for 2 minutes. 4 Perform 2 light accelerations (0 to 35 mph (0 to 60 km/h) with light pedal pressure). 5 Perform 2 medium accelerations (0 to 45 mph (0 to 70 km/h) with moderate pedal pressure). 6 Perform 2 hard accelerations (0 to 55 mph (0 to 90 km/h) with heavy pedal pressure). 7 Allow engine to idle for 2 minutes. 8 Connect TestBook and with the engine still running, check for fault codes. P Code J2012 Description Land Rover Description P0600 Serial communication link malfunction CAN time out P1776 Transmission control system torque interface malfunction EAT torque interface error ENGINE MANAGEMENT SYSTEM - V8 DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION 18-2-59 ⇒ Drive cycle C: 1 Switch ignition on for 30 seconds. 2 Ensure engine coolant temperature is less than 60°C (140°F). 3 Start the engine and allow to idle for 2 minutes. 4 Perform 2 light accelerations (0 to 35 mph (0 to 60 km/h) with light pedal pressure). 5 Perform 2 medium accelerations (0 to 45 mph (0 to 70 km/h) with moderate pedal pressure). 6 Perform 2 hard accelerations (0 to 55 mph (0 to 90 km/h) with heavy pedal pressure). 7 Cruise at 60 mph (100 km/h) for 8 minutes. 8 Cruise at 50 mph (80 km/h) for 3 minutes. 9 Allow engine to idle for 3 minutes. 10 Connect TestBook and with the engine still running, check for fault codes. NOTE: The following areas have an associated readiness test which must be flagged as complete, before a problem resolution can be verified: l catalytic converter fault; l Evaporative loss system fault; l HO2 sensor fault; l HO2 sensor heater fault. When carrying out a drive cycle C to determine a fault in any of the above areas, select the readiness test icon to verify that the test has been flagged as complete. ⇒ Drive cycle D: 1 Switch ignition on for 30 seconds. 2 Ensure engine coolant temperature is less than 35°C (95°F). 3 Start the engine and allow to idle for 2 minutes. 4 Perform 2 light accelerations (0 to 35 mph (0 to 60 km/h) with light pedal pressure). 5 Perform 2 medium accelerations (0 to 45 mph (0 to 70 km/h) with moderate pedal pressure). 6 Perform 2 hard accelerations (0 to 55 mph (0 to 90 km/h) with heavy pedal pressure). 7 Cruise at 60 mph (100 km/h) for 5 minutes. 8 Cruise at 50 mph (80 km/h) for 5 minutes. 9 Cruise at 35 mph (60 km/h) for 5 minutes. 10 Allow engine to idle for 2 minutes. 11 Connect TestBook and check for fault codes. ⇒ Drive cycle E: 1 Ensure fuel tank is at least a quarter full. 2 Carry out Drive Cycle A. 3 Switch off ignition. 4 Leave vehicle undisturbed for 20 minutes. 5 Switch on ignition. 6 Connect TestBook and check for fault codes.
Last edited by SuperSport; 02-20-2014 at 07:49 PM.
#5
02-20-2014, 10:35 PM
Yeah, I figured as much. I suspect it was an SAI code, so I'm probably going to find it's returned once the OBD cycle has completed.
Thankfully the shop has an OBD reader that checks monitors. Even though they can't tell me which haven't reset, I figure I'll drive it for a week and check back. There's a free retest, and they'll scan it again before they perform the second test.
Thankfully the shop has an OBD reader that checks monitors. Even though they can't tell me which haven't reset, I figure I'll drive it for a week and check back. There's a free retest, and they'll scan it again before they perform the second test.
#6
02-20-2014, 11:53 PM
The SAI monitor is usually the last to close.
It is often affected by other monitors especially the 02's (upstream).
I have found that doing a singular 02 change out when one fails can be an act of folly. Although switching, the one "old 02" does not give the same STFT and LTFT as the new one when looked at in a singular manner with a Pro scanner like an Autologic. A mean average LTFT is selected by the ECM, this often takes a long time to close!
I have taken to changing out upstream 02's in pairs on D2's and seeing a very quick monitor closing when facing E test failures and getting compliance.
You might want to also look at post cat activity which must be very slow on switching as it is measuring Cat effy, when giving the throttle a hard blip. It too can slow down cat monitor closing when reaching a point where the efficiency might just flag a mil lamp. (CEL)
By the way--if uncertain whether the secondary air pump is working? Simply jumper the battery positive to that yellow wire coming out of the corner of the fuse box (lower right)--the pump should run--it pulls a high amperage so check the fuse cartridge just beside it.
Best of luck with your E test
T/V
It is often affected by other monitors especially the 02's (upstream).
I have found that doing a singular 02 change out when one fails can be an act of folly. Although switching, the one "old 02" does not give the same STFT and LTFT as the new one when looked at in a singular manner with a Pro scanner like an Autologic. A mean average LTFT is selected by the ECM, this often takes a long time to close!
I have taken to changing out upstream 02's in pairs on D2's and seeing a very quick monitor closing when facing E test failures and getting compliance.
You might want to also look at post cat activity which must be very slow on switching as it is measuring Cat effy, when giving the throttle a hard blip. It too can slow down cat monitor closing when reaching a point where the efficiency might just flag a mil lamp. (CEL)
By the way--if uncertain whether the secondary air pump is working? Simply jumper the battery positive to that yellow wire coming out of the corner of the fuse box (lower right)--the pump should run--it pulls a high amperage so check the fuse cartridge just beside it.
Best of luck with your E test
T/V
#7
02-21-2014, 12:16 AM
Thanks! I'm going to see how it looks in a week or so, and see if monitors have closed. If not, I'll get to messing with stuff.
The truck seems to be picky regarding gas(after watching codes appear on the ultra gauge). I suspect that's more of an O2 sensor issue due to some codes I've seen previously, but it's coinciding with a particular filling station company in the area(Arco). I'm going to give it another tank of Chevron, and I bet it passes.
The truck seems to be picky regarding gas(after watching codes appear on the ultra gauge). I suspect that's more of an O2 sensor issue due to some codes I've seen previously, but it's coinciding with a particular filling station company in the area(Arco). I'm going to give it another tank of Chevron, and I bet it passes.
#8
02-21-2014, 02:34 AM
Pro Wrench
Yeah, I figured as much. I suspect it was an SAI code, so I'm probably going to find it's returned once the OBD cycle has completed.
Thankfully the shop has an OBD reader that checks monitors. Even though they can't tell me which haven't reset, I figure I'll drive it for a week and check back. There's a free retest, and they'll scan it again before they perform the second test.
Thankfully the shop has an OBD reader that checks monitors. Even though they can't tell me which haven't reset, I figure I'll drive it for a week and check back. There's a free retest, and they'll scan it again before they perform the second test.
Cool beans on the free retest.
#9
02-21-2014, 02:46 AM
#10
02-21-2014, 09:45 AM
Pro Wrench
EDIT: I apologize, it's an Innova Scanner. Notice the grey monitors? Those have not been completed yet.
Last edited by SuperSport; 02-21-2014 at 11:37 AM.