Would anyone else suggest spraying some starter fluid? Take off the throttle body boot and hold the throttle open, spray a smallish amount in, quick put the boot back on and crank? I'm not sure about it, but it is something I might try if it were mine. This could at least rule out maybe a crank sensor or something else. If sprayed in and she fires up for a moment and dies out it would at least be telling. Would also help to not flood out the engine if it is just cranked and cranked. Even with premium and fuel injector cleaner in the tank, it would take a hell of a lot of cranking to get those lines clear of that, and leave plenty of unburned gas around.
Just a thought... might want others to chime in on this one though.

 

I have the exact same problem. I didn't drive my car yesterday bc the roads were nasty. This morning it won't start. I just replaced gaskets 500 mikes ago ($1000). Now my mechanic told me over the phone it may be electrical problems since the radio and windows work.

I'm honestly over this car, I'm just going to sell it.
After all that money wasted I still don't have heat in the car. I live in Boston and my truck blows A/c even after an hour of driving.

2000 dII with 120k miles

 

Chibrown

Wont start - if engine turns over, you have enough electrical power in battery to turn the starter. If no spark (can be checked by removing a plug wire and attaching spare plug, lay on manifold, watch for spark when cranking) - suspect Crank Position Sensor. If sparks - suspect fuel problem (pump).

 

I'm a 22 y.o woman that knows nothing about cars besides normal oil change stuff. I guess I have no choice but to tow the truck to a mechanic.

 

Well your gender makes no difference, the Rover can't tell what size hand is holding the wrench. Women build these and other vehicles. Your age makes no difference, we have high schoolers on here that work on their trucks. See https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...e2/#post294266 for a write up what to expect from a guy and his wife who did this last night.

However, like many owners, you may decide your time is best spent on the fun part of Rover ownership, and that is fine as well. An informed owner is the best customer a mechanic can have. I would suggest that you give the mechanic a detailed update on what it has done (clicks, does not turn over, turns over very slowly, or turns over normally but never starts, etc.). As for no heat, that indicates that coolant is low, the D2 has no valve in the heater line, hot water is circulated through the heater core at all times, even in the summer. This could cause an overheating problem and should be addressed. It could also be a thermostat stuck open, in which case engine won't warm up to regular temperature. You would expect coolant temperature to be between 180 - 208 F when warmed up.

Heres some pages from the RAVE service manual you can print out and discuss with mechanic.

The CKP (CranK position Sensor) is on the rear of the engine on driver side. It picks up pulses from the teeth of the flywheel whizzing by 2 mm away from it's tip. It tells the engine computer when to fire each spark plug, and lots of other timing issues. When it fails, no sparks are sent to spark plugs. That's why we suggest the simple spark plug test. If it fails when parked, no codes are sent to the check engine light system. When swapping it out (about a $70 - $90 part), be sure all spacers go back exactly like they came out, or it still won't work.

The coolant flow diagram shows how water gets where under the hood. When truck is cold you should open the coolant reserve container cap, and see if level of fluid inside is visible and about half full. If not, add premixed coolant (50/50 premix, like Peak) if your original color of what is in the system is green or yellow. If original color is orange (Dexcool) you will need to have system flushed and new coolant installed.

Owning any vehicle takes more than oil change and tires. The higher the miles, the more the monthly repair budget increases. Does not matter what brand, what city, etc. And some shops will take advantage of a guy with a necktie and an MBA or a soccer mom with a road warrior husband or a single gal. Try to pay for repairs with a credit card, so if there is a dispute, the card company will go to bat for you.

Now if you got gaskets done for $1000 - if that was head gaskets, that is a very, very low price. Many shops are in the $1500 - $1700 range, the parts to DIY are like $300 plus $200 of machine shop work.

You can also save the entire RAVE on USB drive and give it to him, he may subscribe to ALL Data, which gives shops similar info, but sometimes the RAVE is more detailed. A good indy mechainc is a valuable friend, also take donuts (best business bribe, they eat all the evidence). By the way guys, this goes for you as well, ask any salesman that calls on job site contractors...

 

I was just trying to prove that I KNOW nothing about cars, I will read up on the issues you listed. I will try to fix the problem too, because I dont think I can mess up the car any more than it already is.

 

A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step. Reading about it will help you decide which path is best for you. Here are some more pages on that sensor. I think that this is a job that a DIY person can do, and tool kits are on sale at Home Depot and Lowes because they were overstocked at Christmas. You'll want nitrile gloves and some hand cleaner. You'll notice lots of pix of pro mechanics wearing gloves, not because they are dainty, it just makes sense.

Lots of guy owners on here never picked up a wrench before they owned a Rover. It becomes a hobby because the dealers are very high priced. They have lots of overhead.

You can do the spark plug test without any tools but will need to buy the cheapest plug from the store, like 99 cents. While some one cranks, some one watches the plug laying on metal to see a spark. This happens fairly often when cranking, but there is a pause while other cylinders take their turn. The spark is across the gap of the plug. Please do not hold the plug while cranking. While not leathal, because of low current, the involuntary muscle reaction can make you jerk and cut your self or break another part. Usually seldom used words from your vocabulary sneak out.

Now if you are getting sparks, the CKP sensor is probably in the clear.

 

^^ Well said. Just remember none of us were born with some mystical Land Rover knowledge - we all had to learn it. To that end none of us are done learning and anyone who says they know everything about a Disco II is either lying, arrogant or both. Don't be afraid to jump in and give it a go. As SB said, cars are just nuts bolts and metal none of which cares one bit about your gender.

This is a very good forum with lots of good people willing to help. Unlike some forums there's not a lot of negativity floating around and you're not going to be treated like an idiot for asking a question.

If tackling some of these issues just isn't your thing or you just don't want to that's fine too but don't hold back just because you think you can't do it.

 

Towed to shop this morning, it started right up when coming off the flatbed. Shop checked the fuel system and pressure measured 51, and filled up with Premium Gas. Drove around, made a few stops and it started fine.

...Now back at home in driveway and NO start again. It cranks and is getting fuel at the schraeder valve.

Guess CPS replacement is next...??? I have one ready to pickup.
Can it be replaced w/o removing exhaust ? (small hands)

 

The crank sensor would be my next GUESS, no you do not need to remove the exhaust to replace it.
There is a "how to" in the write up section of the DII page.