Driiveshaft Question
#22
Seems like that would be pretty easy to do. When rebuilding a driveshaft and installing a new centering ball, just drill and tap the socket/shell that the ball goes into and deburr the inside where the hole was drilled.
Isn't the one in the picture just tapped into the side of the cast iron pocket?
Isn't the one in the picture just tapped into the side of the cast iron pocket?
#23
It is not bent, scratched or damaged and still looks 99% new..... it's just not balanced.
I can't send it back because I pulled it from another truck I have here that had the shaft in it from the PO.
So... since I didn't buy the shaft first hand and I have no warranty .... I do have a scrap pile.
I guess I could have it balanced but the only shop near me that balanced driveshafts closed it doors.
Last edited by RicketyTick; 10-23-2014 at 01:15 PM.
#24
Saw this in one of the prop shaft rebuild DIY threads:
If you're using a u-joint with the zerk fitting in the valley of the cross, be sure to orient the u-joint correctly when you install it.
The hole for the fitting should be under compression by the driving yoke during normal operation, i.e., driving forward.
If you install it backwards so it's under tension, it compromises the strength of the u-joint.
Can someone explain/elaborate?
If you're using a u-joint with the zerk fitting in the valley of the cross, be sure to orient the u-joint correctly when you install it.
The hole for the fitting should be under compression by the driving yoke during normal operation, i.e., driving forward.
If you install it backwards so it's under tension, it compromises the strength of the u-joint.
Can someone explain/elaborate?
The u-joint has 4 trunions; at the 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock positions. If the u-joint is in the axle shaft, as an example, having the inner axle shaft that goes to the differential, with the ears of the axle shaft at 12 and 6 o'clock, the outer axle shaft (that goes to the wheels) will have its ears at 3 and 9 o'clock. If you are moving forward, the differential will be turning the inner axle shaft (which is the driver) and the outer axle shaft will be the driven component. Therefore, the 12 and 6 o'clock positions will be driving the 3 and 9 o'clock positions. You would put the zerk between the 9 and 12 o'clock or the 3 and 6 o'clock position. If the zerk was between the 6 and 9 o'clock or the 12 and 3 o'clock position, then it would be in tension.
Last edited by sdhow; 10-23-2014 at 12:11 PM.
#25
Yeah hard to try to explain that, other than just know which way the shaft turns in drive and make sure each zerk is in the correct valley so it is compressed under load and not the other way around.
There is an article with pictures out there somewhere that shows in detail how to get it right, better than can be explained with just words.
There is an article with pictures out there somewhere that shows in detail how to get it right, better than can be explained with just words.
#27
I got the driveshaft off and sent back to the manufacturer who is going to replace it. It ended up the cover for the center was torn, and with the vibration I was experiencing at 65-75 mph that a replacement was necessary.
When I install the new driveshaft is there any special way to position it? Also, it says to torque it to 35 ft/lbs I believe. I am not sure I can get my torques wrench on there. Is getting it on there as tightly as possible OK? It was by no means easy getting them off.
When I install the new driveshaft is there any special way to position it? Also, it says to torque it to 35 ft/lbs I believe. I am not sure I can get my torques wrench on there. Is getting it on there as tightly as possible OK? It was by no means easy getting them off.
#28
#29
Just an update.
I greased and installed the new driveshaft. I must be over greasing, because I test drove it and there is grease everywhere under there! Anyway, over greasing is probably better than under.
Got on the highway and it was smooth, so shake/vibration anywere up to 75mph.
The new one is bare metal has not been painted, I may do that nest time I service, but maybe I will get a cool steampunk surface rust type finish on her. The bare metal looks cool not that you can see it.
Justin has been responsive and great so as long as this shaft works out I won't regret going with the Proshaft shaft. If you don't like getting dirty and laying on your garage floor get the unservicable kind.
I greased and installed the new driveshaft. I must be over greasing, because I test drove it and there is grease everywhere under there! Anyway, over greasing is probably better than under.
Got on the highway and it was smooth, so shake/vibration anywere up to 75mph.
The new one is bare metal has not been painted, I may do that nest time I service, but maybe I will get a cool steampunk surface rust type finish on her. The bare metal looks cool not that you can see it.
Justin has been responsive and great so as long as this shaft works out I won't regret going with the Proshaft shaft. If you don't like getting dirty and laying on your garage floor get the unservicable kind.