Hi drowssap, exactly like that

 

Seems like that would be pretty easy to do. When rebuilding a driveshaft and installing a new centering ball, just drill and tap the socket/shell that the ball goes into and deburr the inside where the hole was drilled.
Isn't the one in the picture just tapped into the side of the cast iron pocket?

 

I have one of the same type that I stuck in my DD and it shakes too....more at about 35-45mph. It's definitely the shaft shaking on mine cause it started shaking the day I put it in....not terrible but enough to notice.

It is not bent, scratched or damaged and still looks 99% new..... it's just not balanced.

I can't send it back because I pulled it from another truck I have here that had the shaft in it from the PO.
So... since I didn't buy the shaft first hand and I have no warranty .... I do have a scrap pile.

I guess I could have it balanced but the only shop near me that balanced driveshafts closed it doors.

 

Nothing like answering your own question, but here's the best written explanation I found on-line:

The u-joint has 4 trunions; at the 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock positions. If the u-joint is in the axle shaft, as an example, having the inner axle shaft that goes to the differential, with the ears of the axle shaft at 12 and 6 o'clock, the outer axle shaft (that goes to the wheels) will have its ears at 3 and 9 o'clock. If you are moving forward, the differential will be turning the inner axle shaft (which is the driver) and the outer axle shaft will be the driven component. Therefore, the 12 and 6 o'clock positions will be driving the 3 and 9 o'clock positions. You would put the zerk between the 9 and 12 o'clock or the 3 and 6 o'clock position. If the zerk was between the 6 and 9 o'clock or the 12 and 3 o'clock position, then it would be in tension.

 

Yeah hard to try to explain that, other than just know which way the shaft turns in drive and make sure each zerk is in the correct valley so it is compressed under load and not the other way around.
There is an article with pictures out there somewhere that shows in detail how to get it right, better than can be explained with just words.

 

www.discovery2.co.uk / Workshop :- front and Rear propshaft

 

I got the driveshaft off and sent back to the manufacturer who is going to replace it. It ended up the cover for the center was torn, and with the vibration I was experiencing at 65-75 mph that a replacement was necessary.

When I install the new driveshaft is there any special way to position it? Also, it says to torque it to 35 ft/lbs I believe. I am not sure I can get my torques wrench on there. Is getting it on there as tightly as possible OK? It was by no means easy getting them off.

 

Just got my new Driveshaft and will install it this weekend. it's my replacement from Justin at Proshaft and appreciate him honoring my warranty.

 

Just an update.

I greased and installed the new driveshaft. I must be over greasing, because I test drove it and there is grease everywhere under there! Anyway, over greasing is probably better than under.

Got on the highway and it was smooth, so shake/vibration anywere up to 75mph.

The new one is bare metal has not been painted, I may do that nest time I service, but maybe I will get a cool steampunk surface rust type finish on her. The bare metal looks cool not that you can see it.

Justin has been responsive and great so as long as this shaft works out I won't regret going with the Proshaft shaft. If you don't like getting dirty and laying on your garage floor get the unservicable kind.

 

There you go...spray it with clear and done. I think my hood and roof are trying to go steampunk.