OP...if all you're looking at is a leaky hub and cash is an issue, pay the $1.00 and just replace the hub seal. If you had a failing hub either you or the car/abs would know it. You don't need to remove the big axle nut to change the hub seal. Pull the bolts and slide the entire hub and axle out. I certainly wouldn't go around changing hubs as part of a PM routine.

 

I ordered the oring and will replace it next weekend. Thanks for the hub link. My three amigos is still on after shuttle valve replacement. Is there a way to test the abs at that hub?

 

I posted the axle nut torque because on my driver rear wheel bearing one day I smelled gear oil. So I had the O-rings already. It was a 30 minute job to pull the hub. I cleaned everything, make sure the Oring couldn't get pinched and it still leaked the next day. I read through the RAVE manual and looking at the cutaway diagram I took the axle nut off (was already loose was able to remove with a 3/8" ratchet) I put a bead of black RTV sealant where the axle shaft met the bearing and installed a new Axle nut. Torqued to 360ft lbs. No more leaks.

 

You will need a suitable diagnostic tool like a Nonocom or Hawkeye and there are others that test down ABS systems and identify the exact faults. General diag tools don't give specific causes of the problems.

 

the icarsoft 930i will also do the same for a tons less than either full system monitors mentioned above. for slightly more than a descent obd2 scanner, it will also do ABS & SRS codes check rover north they said the had sold quite a few.

 

Thanks for the info. I have the ultra gauge and think that thing is awesome. It let me know last night I have a 300 and 304 code. Before it would have worried me but now that it is the 3rd vehicle, it looks like I get a weekend of tinkering soon. The only reason I can't spend too much on the rover is thanks to this texas rain we have found some leaky doors and windows, so wife and I agreed to save for that.