Good morning all!
My son has received as a gift a 2001 DiscoII. It has 150+ on the odometer.
The service records are amazing. I was most excited about the air suspension being replaced by springs. We are looking forward to working on it together. I am pretty mechanically inclined. Honestly, I am so looking forward to the time together with him. Some might say (joking) you are going to spend a lot of time together .
My question, it has sat for three years what should I do before I start it?
I know the liners have a tendency to slip so I was thinking of shooting something (WD40 or MMO) in each spark plug hole before start or is that even necessary?
Thank you for your help!

 

change the oil with is probably 1/2 condensated water by now, and lube the cylinder, leave the plugs out while you are first cranking it. jmho

 

If I can add to what Dro said, when the spark plugs are out, pull relay #1 from the engine bay fuse box (shuts off fuel pump, identified on the fuse box cover as a gas pump) and turn it over about 4 times for 10 seconds each, spaced far enough apart to let your starter recover. This will get oil into the right places before you add fuel and fire. Also, fill the new oil filter halfway before putting it on to help the process. I put a squirt of oil in each cylinder through the spark plug hole, too, to lube the cylinder.

Mine sat for five years once and all of that worked.

If it sat that long it won't hurt to push the inertial switch on the passenger firewall (black thing... Just push it from the top and you might hear a click). When I tried to start mine after five years it wouldn't do much until I pushed that switch and, at the time, I didn't even know what it was.

 

Thank you both! after reading...and reading...I'm afraid to ask what oil (I'm a synthetic guy).
How many have seen the older service guy on on "Chasing Classic Cars" count to 10 (?) while spraying WD40 in the spark plug hole That is what prompted me ask about the WD40

 

The wd40 trick will work but it will make a ton of smoke and I'd change the oil again pretty soon after doing it. It is so thin and remember that the oil in the Rings doesn't just lubricate, it also aids compression. I don't think you can go wrong either way.

The consensus in this forum is to use Rotella 15w40 Dino oil. It is one of the last ones with detergents in it and it really keeps your engine clean. I think another reason it is popular is that it helps nurse worn bearings for oil pressure... All of the trucks here are pretty old. Mine is a year older than yours. Also, Rotella is cheap.

Our engines run dirty. Real dirty. Rotella washes that stuff out. I have three Rover engines. One used the recommended oil its whole life. One used Rotella and recommended oil. And one just used Rotella. Having stared into the bowels of each the Rotella engines were much cleaner (to the point of looking new) and had no gunk in them. All of them have at least 100000 miles on them.

But I have some diesels too and they all use Rotella, so the portion that I siphon to Rover use is almost free.

I think any oil will work as long as you have good pressure and the temperature in your part of the world isn't too cold.

 

Did a search online and I have a dmb question, what is the "T" for?
Shell Rotella T 15W-40 Heavy Duty Diesel Oil (Walmart description)
Also, fun filled fact, I have an 1963 Old's F-85 with the 215 motor as well

 

The guy behind the counter said it was for Triple Protection. The T3 is for non-catalytic engines, T5 is synthetic blend, T6 is full synthetic.
A few things to consider. The temp gauge on your dash is worthless, either invest in an UltraGauge, manual temp gauge or WIFI/BT dongle and get an app like DashCommand.
These engines can overheat quickly and cause damage. It is also a general consensus to get the OEM 180 degree thermostat, do not get an aftermarket or you will be replacing it before you know it. Keep us up to date on your Son and your progress. My son and I both have 1 and they have been fun to work on.

 

I don't know what the T stands for specifically, but I do know that T 15W-40 is magical stuff -- especially for the ridiculously low price.
As well as being ideal for the Rover engine in most climates, it carries the appropriate certification for Japanese motorcycles with wet clutches. I've used it in my Nighthawk for years.

 

OK, We got her home (Well over four blocks) did the oil procedure and bought a new battery and as it ran it got smoother and smoother but still kind of rough.
My list to tackle and read about here tonight
1) drivers side window does not work
2) SRS light is on
3) Service Engine soon light would blink or just stay on.
Quick question, can I just got to Advance Auto and have the codes scanned or do I need something different?
She cleaned up really nicely
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Advance Auto can read the codes. Steadily lit SES indicates a problem. Flashing SES indicates a more serious problem, i.e. catalytic converter-damaging problem.