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I'm researching my transmission issue 1st thing in morning. I start the car and when I shift into D the car will not go forward, it's as if something is holding the car back. I shift out of D into R, then Back into D and the car moves forward more freely.
Maybe I'm imagining things - but I son't think so. I've tried just driving it 15 or 20 feet but it's as if something is holding the car from moving forward.
It's not too cold here in Maryland in the morning maybe 37 F?
My 7year warranty expires in 3 weeks so I'm dotting i's.
It is time you went to the dealer. And make sure if it is not resolved you go back again and again during warranty period. A tranny rebuild is not cheap, and a new tranny is more than a used Disco. Maybe be something small.
drop the car off at the dealer the night before and be there in the morning to show them the problem. You only have 3-weeks to get it all documented, some lesser dealer may try to put you off saying they have a full schedule.
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00 Disco 4.0 80k miles SLS, ACE, 7 passenger 255x65x18: Repairs since 02/11 new intake, valve cover, head, timing cover, waterpump & oil sump gaskets, new timing chain & gears, water pump, t-stat, hoses, belt, new front drive shaft, Akebono pads, D&S rotors, SS brake lines, clutch fan, HMS completed.
90 RRC County
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He who dies with the most toys, WINS
I am trying to put together an accurate scenario if it's my Brake Pads sticking to the rotors when they get cold. If using the hand brake contributes to it.
Or if it's cold think transmission fluid? Or low fluid level?
Or is it the problem where the car does not shift into the 1st Drive gears under load well in the cold.
Any thoughts on the symptoms please offer. I put the car in Drive and accelerate slowly and the Revs rise but the car feels like it's attached to something. After about 3 to 5 seconds it starts to move (slowly) still like it is restrained then after 5 seconds it starts it's drive.
This is your first full time 4x4 isint it?
First off you cannot just tap the key and drop it in gear first thing in the morning, it takes a min for all the fluid to circulate through the transmission and build up enough pressure to move the 5,000lb truck.
Second when the gear lube is cold it is really thick and thus provides tons of resistance.
Wait until it gets really cold then it will be even harder to move it first thing.
Make sure the dealer lets it sit outside, I bet they tell you everything is fine.
I am thinking there is an issue with something, but I can't put my finger on it. Transmission fluid too think perhaps? You start the vehicle, put it in drive, and the engine RPMS rise with no forward movement unless you cycle through reverse, then back to drive? Since it is still under warranty, keep the appointment, let it sit overnight, and if possible be there when they first start it in the morning.
My morning routine (parked in garage) is to start vehicle (idle is at 1100-1200RPM at first in the winter), wait for idle to drop to 1000 after 10 seconds or so, select reverse, and leisurely back out of the garage and driveway. The same applies when coming home from work after it has been sitting outside. I learned a long time ago that I can't just start it, and drop it into gear in the colder temperatures.
Spike is correct about the gear lube. You have close to an 80W lube in the differentials and transfer case. In the winter time, I can almost feel how thick the gear lube is when cold while pulling away from a stop when cold, and I am running synthetics. Unfortunately, the only way to heat the gear lube is to drive it.
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2000 Disco II 113,000 miles
Maintenance: 60K service with BG fluids, front drive shaft rebuild, Denso iridium plugs, front O2 sensors, Akebono ceramics front and rear with new rotors, belt tensioner and idlers, brake fluid and coolant flushed every two years- regardless of miles
Upgrades: OEM brushguard and driving lights, 04 CDL, extended rear axle breather, DI wiper arms, heated seat kit, grey painted chalkboard headliner
When was the last time you serviced the tranny, have you checked the fluid level and do you know how.
If it is low on fluid or has not had the 60K done on it and a dealer sees that you can void the warranty.
__________________
Mike
Retired service manager. Member of the Solihull Society, NCLR club, SCLR and Santa Barbara 4 Wheelers.
99 D2, 3" lift, CDL with a Detroit and T.T. lockers, H.D. axles, 4:11 gears, Custom front and rear bumpers, sliders, Warn winch, and 5 HID's.
Need Parts? paulgrant@mac.com, or 203-770-1699 willtillery@roverguy.com, or 434-251-9331
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Had my Britcar RangeRover mechanic do a service. The transmission filter was changed with the kit, also had them drain and refill the transmission. And he greased the parking brake mechanism.
No more locked early morning starts. If I put the truck in D it Drives.
However, here's what I'm wrestling with. When I drive in D it has this really odd shifting points.
1 - It feels like it shifts early, the engine speed is not matched.
2 - Slight oil leak where the transmission mates at the front.
If I shift using the 1, 2, 3 the shift is smooth, just pulling away from stop in D is 90% good, the other 10% just isn't perfect.
Is it wear? Or is it the electric switch that assists the autotransmission what's it called? Or do I need to reset the Computer that builds the shifting profile?
The D2 tranny ECU and engine ECU carry on a conversation of how much power, rpms, etc. are going on, and shift points are impacted. Dirty MAF and plugs and wires can make engine run slightly rough (you might not notice) but could change how shifts are computed slightly.