Thanks for the guys who posted replies , well i have had the heads off again , cylinder linings are all inplace , new head bolts , all back together and still doing the same **** , surging all the water out of the expansion chamber from just after being started .
I have had a lot of cars and a lot of 4WDs , had a 1976 rangie never had a problem , and i had it for years . iIhave had the car for 4 months it has 130ks looks great , but it a chunk of **** , trouble from day one , I am ready to torch it in the first paddock i can find , but there is a total fire ban on .
I figure the block could be cracked. there is some thing that I am missing , iam going to leave it at a mates place who is a mechanic ( hates land rovers , cant imagine why) and see if he can figure it out . So there might be a 95 disc getting wrecked real soon as Iam not willing to sink any more money into it .

 

what motor is it?

where are you from?

i think there is a conversion kit for a small block ford/chevy motor. that's what i would do, also, it could be made into a little bit of a hot rod

 

Is it something dumb like a Fan Clutch?
Have you had the radiator flow tested?
Are you running an after market fan?

 

Budley62, have you done any pressure testing? Are you sure it's exhaust gasses surging in your radiator? I know you said before that you had the heads decked, but how true is the block on the mating face? In your other post, Bait said that on these engines, sleeves that have slipped are almost not noticeable. Maybe you should give this a closer look if you plan to tare down again, and if possible use a proper depth gauge. If you have already confirmed that your valves are seating properly, start by doing leak-down tests on every cylinder. I would go as far as plugging every port and pressurizing the crank case to see if you have any internal fractures.

Don't take any offense to this but, have you at all tested your cap on the coolant reservoir tank (unless yours is mounted on the rad itself)? Are you positive your engine is over heating because you think combustion pressures are being surged into the coolant system? Before you rip that engine apart again, test that cap, and then test the coolant system by seeing how much pressure it can hold (don't exceed 20psi), and if you can't test the cap, swap it for another one. My brothers car was doing the same thing recently. As soon as it started to warm up, even before the temp gauge started to register, the coolant violently started to bubble and slosh out after a few minutes. I checked everything (almost), wondering why the hell this thing overheats so quickly. My last guess was the cap, but I tested it anyway, and that was the problem. Obviously, water boils at 100 C', but when under pressure water can reach a much higher temperature without boiling. Maybe this is what your experiencing? The coolant boiling and bubbling, being pushed out of the system until the coolant level quickly gets replaced by air, all while your temp gauge is having a heart attack on the up rise?

If all else fails, do what 05LandRover mentioned, but get a chunky diesel instead.

 

Are we forgetting a bad thermostat (or installed in reverse - I did that!!) or a clogged radiator?
Replacing the thermostat and a good radiatorshop cured the boiling over problem
in my '69 mustang (30 years ago).