Hello! I'm new to Land Rover's but I'm absolutely obsessed. Got my first Disco 2 less than 4 months ago. It's an 03 and before buying it I did some research and new they could be problematic/costly to repair. I've only ever done small jobs to cars ( Rotors, brakes, oil, alternator, radiator, motor mounts). I love the prospect of learning with the vehicle and taking it off road/camping with my family. Since owning it I realized. People just suck at maintaining their cars. I mean this one is not totally destroyed but I bought it for 3000 dollars. (talked down from 4500) Since I bought it I replaced the radiator and 2 hoses, did all 4 rotors and brakes. And my rear main seal is leaking oil/burning it. And I'm leaking a little oil from my valve cover gaskets. All of this is just from simple things that the previous owner could have done and quite possibly he could have gotten much more for a better running truck. But anyways I digress. A friend of mine and fellow LR nut told me that doing the rear main seal and the valve cover gaskets can cost around 1000-1500 to fix. I think I may be able to to the valves but the rear main seal is definitely not something I can do. Also it clicks pretty bad. Everywhere I go some guy tells me I need oil. I check the oil daily and I can assure you it does not need oil. I keep reading things on here saying "yea they do that" or "mines been clicking for the last 100k no biggie". Is it really not a big deal? I also heard these trucks have an issue with the oil pump, the drive shaft, and the catalytic converter. Could it be any of those. When I bought it I checked the vin. It does fall in the kill range. Honestly though even though she clicks, the car drives great. Handles beautifully. I have taken it on 2 1/2 hour drives 2 times a day on many occasions even when the radiator was about to go, needed new tires, and new rotors and brakes. This thing has never left me stranded. So far I'm pretty caught up with the maintenance. just the rear main seal, valve cover gaskets, and the clickin' noise. If you are still reading. Thank you. also my signature says it has 177,00 miles. That is incorrect it has 117,000.

 

the valve cover gaskets might just need to be tightened and they require a 12pt 8mm socket. I try to remember to check them out every oil change.

Head over to the D2 forum. There's a sticky for recommended major services/maintenance.

 

AEven though you changed the radiator, the engine could still be running too hot. I bought a 2003 last year which made a ticking noise after it warmed up and everywhere I read said that was normal. Crazy people. There are a number of things that make noise but first thing is to get your coolant temps LoW as possible! These Rover engines running hot is the worst thing. Invest in one of those gauges that plugs into your OBD input under the dash where you plug in to read codes. A lot of people use the Ultragauge or something like that. You also need to install a 180 degree thermostat made by Land Rover. It's gray and costs $70. Don't waste time and money on cheap aftermarket units. Also, check your viscous cooling fan or just replace it all together with a heavy duty unit. If your truck still has the red tropical punch looking antifreeze, forever flush that out and refill it with green color when you install the new thermostat. You did great with the radiator now you have to keep trucking. These trucks run hot as the parts age and ALL KINDS of things go wrong sometime even catastrophically like a head gasket blowing out or the cylinder sleeve liner moving and then the motor is junk. Get your Scangauge hooked up and see what the coolant temp is after driving around for 30 minutes on the highway, city avenues, etc. you have to put it through the paces bc the temp will be all over the place and you need to know what's it's doing and when. If it's over 200 it's too much, over 210 needs immediate attention but I would get the 180 deg stat on order before anything. It wasn't until I got my 180 Tstat, HD fan and green coolant that temps were under 200f and the noises stopped completely. But there's a ton of maintenance work to be updated even on a 2003. Transmission fluid/filter/pan gasket all has to be changed, spark plugs and wires, intake gasket, the driveshafts have to be rebuilt or replaced...especially your front driveshaft because they break and when it does, the end that comes undone at the CV joint busts a fist-sized hole into the transmission and then you have to buy and install another transmission because of a $200 driveshaft wasn't updated. If you haven't read that STICKY for high mile service DIscos, you should really get yourself informed as this truck will financially destroy you. Another thing is motor oil and filters. Shell Rotella 15w-40 is the way to go and get a high end filter. I use only the NAPA Gold made for Ford but there are many possible candidates here. If you want to keep the truck running reliably, read and research on all your free time because there is that much stuff you really have to stay ahead of. Also keep an eye on your coolant level in the overflow tank DAILY and look for leaks until you are sure that you have no coolant leaks. You better believe that all of the radiator hoses and the fittings/TEES/WYES are brittle from the inside, out unless they have recently been replaced. Just plan on overhauling the cooling system, doing a thorough tune-up and proper oil change on engine/trans, replace the front DRiveShaft and replace or at least check the fluid level in transfer case, both differentials. Anything can and may be leaking and when you run low on fluid somewhere....BANG. Go over everything with a fine tooth comb and look through all receipts and service records to see what all has been done to the truck and how long ago.

Oh, and if oil is leaking from valve covers, they will have to be replaced. The inside bolts for VCs are underneath the intake which has to be removed. When I did mine, the rubber gaskets were hard and lost their confirm ability from heat and age. Best thing to do is replace valve cover gasket, intake gasket, coil packs, spark plugs and plug wires All at the same time because that is the only way you can get to it all. Intake has to be removed to do anything and don't reuse any gaskets and don't use RTV sealant when reinstalling. Also use medium Loctite on all of the little bolts going back together. Check back when you get ready to do work. Don't trust your little stuff to Indy mechanics. They don't take the time for properly cleaning and prepping everything going back together with the gasket and you have 4 different leaks 1-year later after you paid $800 in labor charges. Cleaning and getting everything flush and square with attention to detail is what makes a good job last.

 

Chubbs! This is exactly what I needed to hear! I was starting to lose hope. So far I don't see any coolant leaking, most of the hoses were replaced pretty recently and the valve gasket covers definitely leak a little because I poured some of that magic red stuff in the oil and a few minutes later I saw it creeping out of the valve cover. My overfill tank for the coolant looks like its pretty full and I never topped it off since I did the radiator in july. I will definitely get a thermostat and the gauge asap. I will look into the hd fan. After that I'm going to do the valve covers, spark plugs, wires, coil packs, intake gasket, and do a oil change and add the longer ford filter as you suggested. Hopefully that will hold me off long enough to scrape up enough money to eventually try to tackle the rear main seal, front drive shaft (possibly rear as well) and do a transmission service and pan gasket replacement all in one go as well. I live in an apartment for now and I cannot work on it here. (they let me do the radiator and the brakes and rotors but now they say enough is enough) Hopefully I can bring it to my dads house and work on it there. For now I only drive it to work which is only 2 1/2 miles from home. I am easy with her for the most part. (only been in the mud once but it handled great) I will take it easy on her for now until she's up to snuff. Thank you for all of your help guys! If there is anything I missed or any more suggestions please keep them coming!

 

I live in an apartment too, I know what you mean. I changed motor oil last weekend with 1-gallon milk jugs and a tiny funnel...DISASTER. Had to bring some of that industrial grade sweep back to soak all the oil up off the driveway. Don't try it, buy a drain pan LOL.
For your info, the filter is Napa Gold 1515. A real hoas. The Rotella is greAt for 2,000 miles but goes to **** and has to be replaced at 3,000; you can tell by the lifter racket. It works though, insides of cylinders heads and valley was looking sharp after running it for 3 months so there couldn't possibly be any noise from lack of oil flow lubrication or sludge buildup as the Rotella will wipe it off the face of the earth. I think running Rotella and lowering coolant temps will get rid of your noises. And if that doesn't work you need to get a look at the flex plate on at the back of your engine and make sure that it's not cracked because that will make a clacking or tacking sound if it is, which has been well-documented. Hollar back with questions. Best forum ever here.

 

Emailed myself a copy of that disco 2 sticky. Starting pricing things out. I'm going to start with the tstat and some water wetter to try to cool her down. within the next week or so I want to at least change the oil and filter. I also need to change oil on my toyota corolla so hoping to do both at the same time. The coolant was flushed and replaced when I did the radiator but it looks like ill be doing that again with the tstat replacement. flushed and replaced the brake fluid when I fixed a brake caliper and did the rotors and brakes a few weeks back. Power steering looks full and so does transmission fluid. Is it still recommended to flush and replace those? Checked out my front driveshaft yesterday, it looks to be in good shape and i think it may have already been replaced. Also my air filter looks pretty good but i haven't replaced it since I have owned the vehicle. Gonna try to buy everything on that list but it gets expensive fast. I repair and build guitars for a living so even though my job is really cool, it doesn't always pay great. BTW if anyone is in the central FL area and needs guitars fixed/made in trade to help me fix my car and or give me a place to work on it I would gladly make that trade. I'd also be willing to teach how to play or repair them as well for a place to work on my LR. Here is a video of my engine starting to click while the engine is still pretty cold.