It keeps coming up over and over, so I thought I post two links to instructions.
They can be used for any propshaft u-joint,
though they are written for the DII front double cardan u-joint. Just ignore the DC part if you don't have one.
www.discovery2.co.uk / Workshop :- front and Rear propshaft
Front Propshaft Rebuild
different instructions in pdf format.
Identification: Checking to see if yours has been rebuilt
Some pointers that neither of the above instructions mention.
For a DII, on the front the end closest to the gearbox will look like #1 in this illustration (hookes joint and u-joint are two names for the same thing).
For others both ends will look like 2&3.
It has two u-joints in it that look like this
If there are grease fittings in the valley of the cross as in the above photo, or on the end cap as below, then it has been rebuilt.
If there aren't any, it likely hasn't (most people don't rebuild them with sealed u-joints) or has been replaced with an OEM propshaft.
The other end (next to the diff) has only one u-joint and will have a grease fitting from the factory
The rear propshaft may look like this
The flexible coupling is on the diff end, but may have been converted to a cardan type u-joint.
(Some model years came with cardan u-joints on both ends)
The u-joint has a grease fitting from the factory.
If the truck is new to you, or you've had it for for a while and haven't greased it correctly every 5,000 miles, I'd have the propshafts rebuilt even if they have zerks on all u-joints.
The DI and DII stock propshafts take the same u-joints, 1300 series.
In fact, the majority of all Land Rovers DII and older only used two u-joints (some TD5's used a 1350 I believe).
Either 1300 series or 1310 series.
2.938" cap to cap and 1.063" cap dia
3.219' cap to cap and 1.063" cap dia
As more and more second, third, fourth and more hand Rovers get passed around more will be found that have had the propshaft upgraded. Before buying/ordering parts it would be wise to measure the u-joints to see if the propshaft has been replaced with one that uses the larger 1310 series u-joints.
If you're using the hammer method, be sure to use a brass hammer. A steel one can easily deform parts.
The grease that is in a new u-joint is only a rust preventative/needle bearing retainer. Don't rely on it for lubrication. Be sure to lube it correctly (see the Maintenance section below).
Ideally, if you have a way to retain the caps like with a vice or several wraps of electrical tape, grease the u-joints before assembly.
A lot of people try to mark the parts with paint or felt tip or something like that. I always use a center punch (as seen in the photo) so I don't have to worry about it coming off. Just use matching single mark for one connection, matching double of another, etc, so you don't get them mixed up.
- If you're using a u-joint with the zerk fitting in the valley of the cross, be sure to orient the u-joint correctly when you install it.
The hole for the fitting should be under compression
by the driving yoke during normal operation, i.e., driving forward.
If you install it backwards so it's under tension, it compromises the strength of the u-joint.
So, for LT230 transfer boxes where the front propshaft turns anti-clockwise:
If you use the PDQ/Neapco u-joints and want the flush grease fittings like you see on mine, they are 1/4" x 28tpi. They also fit the slip joint and you don't have to remove it.
Those are best fittings IMO for the Neapco u-joints and the slip joint.
The one caveat is that you'll need a grease gun with a rigid tube and a tip to fit the flush zerks.
I just confirmed with Neapco that Advance no longer carries any PDQ u-joints.
PDQ was a line Neapco did solely for Advance. I'm trying to find out if they are doing any similar line for anyone else.
But - Neapco has not discontinued the 1-0005 (or 1-0154 as used on Series Rovers) in the Neapco box. So you can still get those from driveline shops that carry Neapco. Just now there is no price advantage, so the only reason to get them would be if you prefer the zerk in the end cap.
(2.938" cap to cap and 1.063" cap dia)
Neapco: 1-0005 - Zerk in end cap
Moog/Precision: 344 - Zerk in cross
Spicer: 5-4x - Zerk in cross, NLA
(3.219' cap to cap and 1.063" cap dia)
Neapco: 1-0153 - Zerk in cross (Do not use PDQ version of this u-joint)
Neapco/PDQ: 1-0154 - Zerk in end cap
Moog/Precision: 369 - Zerk in cross
Moog/Precision: 380 - Zerk in end cap (if you use these, make sure the zerk is in the box, it's an unusual/hard to find thread size)
Spicer: 1-153x - Zerk in cross
For the DII front you also need a centering kit.
Neapco 7-0081NG or Moog/Precision 617 for the OE shaft.
If it has been upgraded to the 1310 series which centering kit it takes will depend on whether the center head is greaseable or not.
The D1, DII & D90 OE rear propshaft takes the same (1300 series) u-joint.
get them at Autozone. All they sell are Chinese.
When you grease it(which you must do after rebuilding it), you need to see new grease come from around all 4 seals on each u-joint. And that's the case every time you lube it.
The service interval for normal use is every 5k miles or 3 months, whichever comes first.
I use Castrol Pyroplex Blue NGLI#2 as it's made for off-road use and is formulated to get tackier when wet. But any grease is better than no grease so don't put off service because you can't find the perfect grease someone told you is the be-all and end-all of grease.
Have fun and keep your cool.
edit - Hopefully better organization
Here's a fitting in the slip joint, doesn't stick out far.