Propshaft Rebuild
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Baja
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 5,232
Likes: 52
From: Georgia, USA
Propshaft Rebuild
It keeps coming up over and over, so I thought I post two links to instructions.
They can be used for any propshaft u-joint, though they are written for the DII front double cardan u-joint. Just ignore the DC part if you don't have one.
www.discovery2.co.uk / Workshop :- front and Rear propshaft Html page
Front Propshaft Rebuild different instructions in pdf format.
Identification: Checking to see if yours has been rebuilt
For a DII, on the front the end closest to the gearbox will look like #1 in this illustration (hookes joint and u-joint are two names for the same thing).
For others both ends will look like 2&3.
It has two u-joints in it that look like this
If there are grease fittings in the valley of the cross as in the above photo, or on the end cap as below, then it has been rebuilt.
If there aren't any, it likely hasn't (most people don't rebuild them with sealed u-joints) or has been replaced with an OEM propshaft.
The other end (next to the diff) has only one u-joint and will have a grease fitting from the factory.
The rear propshaft may look like this
The flexible coupling is on the diff end, but may have been converted to a cardan type u-joint.
(Some model years came with cardan u-joints on both ends)
The u-joint has a grease fitting from the factory.
If the truck is new to you, or you've had it for for a while and haven't greased it correctly every 5,000 miles, I'd have the propshafts rebuilt even if they have zerks on all u-joints.
The DI and DII stock propshafts take the same u-joints, 1300 series.
In fact, the majority of all Land Rovers DII and older only used two u-joints (some TD5's used a 1350 I believe).
Either 1300 series or 1310 series.
1300 Series
2.938" cap to cap and 1.063" cap dia
1310 Series
3.219' cap to cap and 1.063" cap dia
As more and more second, third, fourth and more hand Rovers get passed around more will be found that have had the propshaft upgraded. Before buying/ordering parts it would be wise to measure the u-joints to see if the propshaft has been replaced with one that uses the larger 1310 series u-joints.
Rebuilding
If you're using the hammer method, be sure to use a brass hammer. A steel one can easily deform parts.
The grease that is in a new u-joint is only a rust preventative/needle bearing retainer. Don't rely on it for lubrication. Be sure to lube it correctly (see the Maintenance section below).
Ideally, if you have a way to retain the caps like with a vice or several wraps of electrical tape, grease the u-joints before assembly.
A lot of people try to mark the parts with paint or felt tip or something like that. I always use a center punch (as seen in the photo) so I don't have to worry about it coming off. Just use matching single mark for one connection, matching double of another, etc, so you don't get them mixed up.
IMPORTANT - If you're using a u-joint with the zerk fitting in the valley of the cross, be sure to orient the u-joint correctly when you install it.
The hole for the fitting should be under compression by the driving yoke during normal operation, i.e., driving forward.
If you install it backwards so it's under tension, it compromises the strength of the u-joint.
So, for LT230 transfer boxes where the front propshaft turns anti-clockwise:
Correct
Incorrect
If you use the PDQ/Neapco u-joints and want the flush grease fittings like you see on mine, they are 1/4" x 28tpi. They also fit the slip joint and you don't have to remove it.
Those are best fittings IMO for the Neapco u-joints and the slip joint.
The one caveat is that you'll need a grease gun with a rigid tube and a tip to fit the flush zerks.
+ 
Parts
edit:06-20-2012
1300 Series
(2.938" cap to cap and 1.063" cap dia)
Neapco: 1-0005 - Zerk in end cap
Moog/Precision: 344 - Zerk in cross
Spicer: 5-4x - Zerk in cross, NLA
1310 Series
(3.219' cap to cap and 1.063" cap dia)
Neapco: 1-0153 - Zerk in cross (Do not use PDQ version of this u-joint)
Neapco/PDQ: 1-0154 - Zerk in end cap
Moog/Precision: 369 - Zerk in cross
Moog/Precision: 380 - Zerk in end cap (if you use these, make sure the zerk is in the box, it's an unusual/hard to find thread size)
Spicer: 1-153x - Zerk in cross
For the DII front you also need a centering kit.
Neapco 7-0081NG or Moog/Precision 617 for the OE shaft.
If it has been upgraded to the 1310 series which centering kit it takes will depend on whether the center head is greaseable or not.
The D1, DII & D90 OE rear propshaft takes the same (1300 series) u-joint.
Do not get them at Autozone. All they sell are Chinese.
When you grease it(which you must do after rebuilding it), you need to see new grease come from around all 4 seals on each u-joint. And that's the case every time you lube it.
The service interval for normal use is every 5k miles or 3 months, whichever comes first.
I use Castrol Pyroplex Blue NGLI#2 as it's made for off-road use and is formulated to get tackier when wet. But any grease is better than no grease so don't put off service because you can't find the perfect grease someone told you is the be-all and end-all of grease.Have fun and keep your cool.
edit - Hopefully better organization
Here's a fitting in the slip joint, doesn't stick out far.
They can be used for any propshaft u-joint, though they are written for the DII front double cardan u-joint. Just ignore the DC part if you don't have one.
www.discovery2.co.uk / Workshop :- front and Rear propshaft Html page
Front Propshaft Rebuild different instructions in pdf format.
=========================================
Some pointers that neither of the above instructions mention.
Some pointers that neither of the above instructions mention.
Identification: Checking to see if yours has been rebuilt
For a DII, on the front the end closest to the gearbox will look like #1 in this illustration (hookes joint and u-joint are two names for the same thing).
For others both ends will look like 2&3.
It has two u-joints in it that look like this
If there are grease fittings in the valley of the cross as in the above photo, or on the end cap as below, then it has been rebuilt.
If there aren't any, it likely hasn't (most people don't rebuild them with sealed u-joints) or has been replaced with an OEM propshaft.
The other end (next to the diff) has only one u-joint and will have a grease fitting from the factory.
The rear propshaft may look like this
The flexible coupling is on the diff end, but may have been converted to a cardan type u-joint.
(Some model years came with cardan u-joints on both ends)
The u-joint has a grease fitting from the factory.
If the truck is new to you, or you've had it for for a while and haven't greased it correctly every 5,000 miles, I'd have the propshafts rebuilt even if they have zerks on all u-joints.
The DI and DII stock propshafts take the same u-joints, 1300 series.
In fact, the majority of all Land Rovers DII and older only used two u-joints (some TD5's used a 1350 I believe).
Either 1300 series or 1310 series.
1300 Series
2.938" cap to cap and 1.063" cap dia
1310 Series
3.219' cap to cap and 1.063" cap dia
As more and more second, third, fourth and more hand Rovers get passed around more will be found that have had the propshaft upgraded. Before buying/ordering parts it would be wise to measure the u-joints to see if the propshaft has been replaced with one that uses the larger 1310 series u-joints.
Rebuilding
If you're using the hammer method, be sure to use a brass hammer. A steel one can easily deform parts.
The grease that is in a new u-joint is only a rust preventative/needle bearing retainer. Don't rely on it for lubrication. Be sure to lube it correctly (see the Maintenance section below).
Ideally, if you have a way to retain the caps like with a vice or several wraps of electrical tape, grease the u-joints before assembly.
A lot of people try to mark the parts with paint or felt tip or something like that. I always use a center punch (as seen in the photo) so I don't have to worry about it coming off. Just use matching single mark for one connection, matching double of another, etc, so you don't get them mixed up.
IMPORTANT - If you're using a u-joint with the zerk fitting in the valley of the cross, be sure to orient the u-joint correctly when you install it.
The hole for the fitting should be under compression by the driving yoke during normal operation, i.e., driving forward.
If you install it backwards so it's under tension, it compromises the strength of the u-joint.
So, for LT230 transfer boxes where the front propshaft turns anti-clockwise:
Correct
Incorrect
If you use the PDQ/Neapco u-joints and want the flush grease fittings like you see on mine, they are 1/4" x 28tpi. They also fit the slip joint and you don't have to remove it.
Those are best fittings IMO for the Neapco u-joints and the slip joint.
The one caveat is that you'll need a grease gun with a rigid tube and a tip to fit the flush zerks.
+ Parts
edit:06-20-2012
I just confirmed with Neapco that Advance no longer carries any PDQ u-joints. 
PDQ was a line Neapco did solely for Advance. I'm trying to find out if they are doing any similar line for anyone else.
But - Neapco has not discontinued the 1-0005 (or 1-0154 as used on Series Rovers) in the Neapco box. So you can still get those from driveline shops that carry Neapco. Just now there is no price advantage, so the only reason to get them would be if you prefer the zerk in the end cap.
Part numbersPDQ was a line Neapco did solely for Advance. I'm trying to find out if they are doing any similar line for anyone else.
But - Neapco has not discontinued the 1-0005 (or 1-0154 as used on Series Rovers) in the Neapco box. So you can still get those from driveline shops that carry Neapco. Just now there is no price advantage, so the only reason to get them would be if you prefer the zerk in the end cap.
1300 Series
(2.938" cap to cap and 1.063" cap dia)
Neapco: 1-0005 - Zerk in end cap
Moog/Precision: 344 - Zerk in cross
Spicer: 5-4x - Zerk in cross, NLA
1310 Series
(3.219' cap to cap and 1.063" cap dia)
Neapco: 1-0153 - Zerk in cross (Do not use PDQ version of this u-joint)
Neapco/PDQ: 1-0154 - Zerk in end cap
Moog/Precision: 369 - Zerk in cross
Moog/Precision: 380 - Zerk in end cap (if you use these, make sure the zerk is in the box, it's an unusual/hard to find thread size)
Spicer: 1-153x - Zerk in cross
For the DII front you also need a centering kit.
Neapco 7-0081NG or Moog/Precision 617 for the OE shaft.
If it has been upgraded to the 1310 series which centering kit it takes will depend on whether the center head is greaseable or not.
The D1, DII & D90 OE rear propshaft takes the same (1300 series) u-joint.
Do not get them at Autozone. All they sell are Chinese.
=========================================
MaintenanceWhen you grease it(which you must do after rebuilding it), you need to see new grease come from around all 4 seals on each u-joint. And that's the case every time you lube it.
The service interval for normal use is every 5k miles or 3 months, whichever comes first.
I use Castrol Pyroplex Blue NGLI#2 as it's made for off-road use and is formulated to get tackier when wet. But any grease is better than no grease so don't put off service because you can't find the perfect grease someone told you is the be-all and end-all of grease.
edit - Hopefully better organization
Here's a fitting in the slip joint, doesn't stick out far.
Last edited by antichrist; Jul 4, 2015 at 03:04 PM.
Thread Starter
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Baja
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 5,232
Likes: 52
From: Georgia, USA
Thanks. AFIAK I can't make stickies.
I put it in the General tech section because it applies (except for maybe the u-joint PN's) to all propshafts with cardan type u-jionts, doesn't matter what vehicle.
I put it in the General tech section because it applies (except for maybe the u-joint PN's) to all propshafts with cardan type u-jionts, doesn't matter what vehicle.
4wd Low
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
are you guys going through a fair amount of grease to get grease to flow through all 4 of the seals on the u-joint?
inevitably, the seal closest to the zerk gets grease coming out of it first and i have to really pump the grease gun rapidly to get grease to come out of the furthest away seal, this usually leads to lots of excess grease coming out of the seal closest to the zerk.
inevitably, the seal closest to the zerk gets grease coming out of it first and i have to really pump the grease gun rapidly to get grease to come out of the furthest away seal, this usually leads to lots of excess grease coming out of the seal closest to the zerk.
Thread Starter
|
Baja
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 5,232
Likes: 52
From: Georgia, USA
are you guys going through a fair amount of grease to get grease to flow through all 4 of the seals on the u-joint?
inevitably, the seal closest to the zerk gets grease coming out of it first and i have to really pump the grease gun rapidly to get grease to come out of the furthest away seal, this usually leads to lots of excess grease coming out of the seal closest to the zerk.
inevitably, the seal closest to the zerk gets grease coming out of it first and i have to really pump the grease gun rapidly to get grease to come out of the furthest away seal, this usually leads to lots of excess grease coming out of the seal closest to the zerk.
So yes, you may get a lot of grease out of one or more before it comes out of all 4. Don't worry about that, it's not harmful. Just wipe off the excess when you're done so it doesn't get flung off on to the exhaust.
Sometimes the journals get jammed to one side and no grease will come out from one or more of the seals. If that happens, tap on the yoke with a hammer opposite of the problematic journal (as shown in the photo in my first post). This will cause the u-joint to shift in the yoke towards your hammer, and may allow the grease to flow.
If you still can't get grease out of all 4 seals, remove the propshaft and try it on the bench. If you still can't, it means the grease is so hardened inside that you need to replace the u-joint.
Lubing it every oil change like you should will go a long way to keeping the passages open.
Last edited by antichrist; Feb 23, 2011 at 08:42 AM.
Thread Starter
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Baja
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 5,232
Likes: 52
From: Georgia, USA
Sorry, missed this question. Yes, those are the correct part numbers.
Thread Starter
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Baja
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 5,232
Likes: 52
From: Georgia, USA
So more info I just posted on another forum.
No way would I get u-joints at Autozone, they are made in China and I have zero comfort level with them. Autozone is using the Neapco PN and that confuses people.
If you order from Advanceutoparts.com you can get the made in the US Neapco u-joints for $12.50
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...5271118-P_17_R
And the centering kit for $31.
Double Cardan CV Ball Seat Repair Kit by Neapco - Part 7-0081NG - Advance Auto Parts
So $68. Add another u-joint to do the rear, or in case you screw one up, and it's $80.50 and you get free shipping.
If you prefer Precision parts, you're stuck with paying around $25 per u-joint and around $40-$45 I think for the centering kit.
Someone reported on a forum getting Precision made house brand u-joints at O'Reilly for $13. But I stopped at one and looked at them and they are made in China. Not really Precision u-joints. O'Reilly does also sell Precision though, but they are about $25.
Of course I'm sure people wonder how Advance Auto can sell Neapco u-joints for $12.50 when they are normally $25-$35. It's because they are boxed as PDQ.
Neapco "makes" PDQ u-joints. Well, for most of them they are contracted out to China or where ever. But for the slow movers, like the 1300 series 1-0005, they just box up some of their own u-joints as PDQ, a loss leader I guess you could call it. It's the same with their 1310 series 1-0154 that has the zerk in the end cap.
I called Neapco to get this information, then confirmed it by buying examples of both the PDQ and Neapco boxed u-joints, just so you know it's not urban folklore.
So for the 1-0005 and 1-0154 you're safe using PDQ if you're cool with Neapco parts. I personally would not use any other PDQ boxed u-joint.
The reason a driveline shop charges a lot more to rebuild a propshaft is, even if they are using Neapco u-joints, they get $25-$30 each for them, and around $40-$50 for the centering kit, so you're at close to $150 for just parts. If it's a Spicer shop then they have to get the u-joints somewhere else, with whatever markup they'd put on them, since Spicer doesn't sell the 1300 series 5-4x anymore.
One thing I really hate about the Advance Auto web site though, is if you put in your vehicle information you can't get it to show the u-joints, or it gives you a warning "Will not fit your xxxxx Discovery". They are, in fact, the correct parts.
No way would I get u-joints at Autozone, they are made in China and I have zero comfort level with them. Autozone is using the Neapco PN and that confuses people.
If you order from Advanceutoparts.com you can get the made in the US Neapco u-joints for $12.50
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...5271118-P_17_R
And the centering kit for $31.
Double Cardan CV Ball Seat Repair Kit by Neapco - Part 7-0081NG - Advance Auto Parts
So $68. Add another u-joint to do the rear, or in case you screw one up, and it's $80.50 and you get free shipping.
If you prefer Precision parts, you're stuck with paying around $25 per u-joint and around $40-$45 I think for the centering kit.
Someone reported on a forum getting Precision made house brand u-joints at O'Reilly for $13. But I stopped at one and looked at them and they are made in China. Not really Precision u-joints. O'Reilly does also sell Precision though, but they are about $25.
Of course I'm sure people wonder how Advance Auto can sell Neapco u-joints for $12.50 when they are normally $25-$35. It's because they are boxed as PDQ.
Neapco "makes" PDQ u-joints. Well, for most of them they are contracted out to China or where ever. But for the slow movers, like the 1300 series 1-0005, they just box up some of their own u-joints as PDQ, a loss leader I guess you could call it. It's the same with their 1310 series 1-0154 that has the zerk in the end cap.
I called Neapco to get this information, then confirmed it by buying examples of both the PDQ and Neapco boxed u-joints, just so you know it's not urban folklore.
So for the 1-0005 and 1-0154 you're safe using PDQ if you're cool with Neapco parts. I personally would not use any other PDQ boxed u-joint.
The reason a driveline shop charges a lot more to rebuild a propshaft is, even if they are using Neapco u-joints, they get $25-$30 each for them, and around $40-$50 for the centering kit, so you're at close to $150 for just parts. If it's a Spicer shop then they have to get the u-joints somewhere else, with whatever markup they'd put on them, since Spicer doesn't sell the 1300 series 5-4x anymore.
One thing I really hate about the Advance Auto web site though, is if you put in your vehicle information you can't get it to show the u-joints, or it gives you a warning "Will not fit your xxxxx Discovery". They are, in fact, the correct parts.
Last edited by antichrist; May 5, 2010 at 07:53 AM.
Rock Crawling
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 342
Likes: 4
From: North Jersey
I just ordered the u-joints and centering bearing/ball, but wanted to know if I should order new bolts as well?
Did you replace the bolts that attach the driveshaft to the vehicle (i.e., transfer case/differential)?
I ask because if you recommend changing them, I read in the PDF (linked in your post) that they were 3/8" bolts with 24 TPI (threads per inch). However, there's no mention of length.
Did you replace the bolts that attach the driveshaft to the vehicle (i.e., transfer case/differential)?
I ask because if you recommend changing them, I read in the PDF (linked in your post) that they were 3/8" bolts with 24 TPI (threads per inch). However, there's no mention of length.