T Stat
#21
#22
#23
You don't necessarily re-route anything at the lower part of the system. You are removing the center hose and running a modified hose from there straight to the lower radiator outlet. When you pull the middle hose the thermostat comes out with it and the bypass has been eliminated. The 2 smaller hoses going to expansion tank and heater stay unaffected.
Its the same thing as the upper section, where you are trying to go straight to the radiator by cutting out the bypass loop to the factory thermostat housing.
Last edited by chubbs878; 04-26-2016 at 12:18 PM.
#26
Was thinking the same thing. Get the t Stat as close to the motor as possible. The problem is the clearance between the alternator and the t stat housing. There's not much as it is with the smaller diameter bleed valve. That's due to the upper hose I used.
As is. My Temps on my Ultra Guage before mod bounced between 196.6 and 204 ish. With higher spikes
Driving today. Temps were between 185.6 and 190.6 with spikes to 196/197.
Outside temp mid day was 56 Fahrenheit. With zero warm up issues...... And the morning start up temperature was 37 Fahrenheit.
I'll take that all day.
As is. My Temps on my Ultra Guage before mod bounced between 196.6 and 204 ish. With higher spikes
Driving today. Temps were between 185.6 and 190.6 with spikes to 196/197.
Outside temp mid day was 56 Fahrenheit. With zero warm up issues...... And the morning start up temperature was 37 Fahrenheit.
I'll take that all day.
#27
I got the mod completed on my truck today using thermostat behind the bleeder adapter. On the cold start it idled at 180 degrees for 1 hour. Took it for a 10 minute drive and temp creeped up to 190 before I turned around and drove straight home quickly. Parked and idled back down to 183. Level of coolant in header tank was lower so I shut it down and see what burps out overnight; maybe just air causing the spike. Hopefully all is OK for morning commute. Will post numbers.
Turns out 189 is the is the very max of operating temp range. Tends to hold 183-185 98% of the time but that 4 degree spike to 189 is the highest it will go. I am extremely delighted with this setup and the addition of the factory oil cooler. My confidene in this truck handling the 105 degree Dallas summers is at 100 percent. With the old factory system I had to keep the AC fan on high and the heat turned up to distribute the pressure and keep the temp spikes under 205, so I'm also pleased that I get to actually put the fan on whatever speed and whenever i want to, reducing the drag on the engine and run-time on the compressor. It has literally been on full blast, high heat for 1 year straight! Hopefully any of you guys reading these threads on the cooling system mod have enough facts and info to make the informed decision to go ahead make the switch.
1 important thing that I would like to add as part of all the write-ups and how-to's on the install is the removal and replacement of the bottom radiator hose is unnecessary. Without having to modify anything on the lower section, once the LR thermostat and upper hose "Tee" is removed, the upper bypass loop from the lower "Wye" can be coupled with the short radiator hose with anything from a plastic 1.5 inch hot-tub/spa coupler to a 1.5 x 3-inch long galvenized tube with threads on each end for holding spines. Add a couple of clamps and call it done.
Turns out 189 is the is the very max of operating temp range. Tends to hold 183-185 98% of the time but that 4 degree spike to 189 is the highest it will go. I am extremely delighted with this setup and the addition of the factory oil cooler. My confidene in this truck handling the 105 degree Dallas summers is at 100 percent. With the old factory system I had to keep the AC fan on high and the heat turned up to distribute the pressure and keep the temp spikes under 205, so I'm also pleased that I get to actually put the fan on whatever speed and whenever i want to, reducing the drag on the engine and run-time on the compressor. It has literally been on full blast, high heat for 1 year straight! Hopefully any of you guys reading these threads on the cooling system mod have enough facts and info to make the informed decision to go ahead make the switch.
1 important thing that I would like to add as part of all the write-ups and how-to's on the install is the removal and replacement of the bottom radiator hose is unnecessary. Without having to modify anything on the lower section, once the LR thermostat and upper hose "Tee" is removed, the upper bypass loop from the lower "Wye" can be coupled with the short radiator hose with anything from a plastic 1.5 inch hot-tub/spa coupler to a 1.5 x 3-inch long galvenized tube with threads on each end for holding spines. Add a couple of clamps and call it done.
Last edited by chubbs878; 05-05-2016 at 09:23 PM.
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