Hi guys/gals, im going to replace the front rotors and pads on my 97 disco this weekend, and i was wondering if there is any other preventive maintenance that needs to be done while im there, like seals etc.

On one side of the front hub i see some oil coming out from the end of the axle. i suspect a drive flange gasket or maybe the vent is clogged.

Here's what ill be doing so far:

Replace front rotors
Replace front pads
replace both differential oils.

Any additional suggestions?

Thanks

 

get some thread lock, you will need it. I would suggest you replace the grease seals and re-pack the bearings. You may find you need to replace one when you get in there, so be ready to make a trip. May want to look into setting/checking the swivel ball pre-load while it is up. I also needed a shim pack for the end play on the front left axle.

If you don't know what you are getting into, I would download a Rave manual. oh, and putting the hub back into the wheel to hold it while you break the rotor off works well...make sure you are putting quality patrs on it. It is something you won't want to re-do..

 

Thanks for the tips, i do have the rave manual, and it looks pretty straight forward, ill look for a part number for those seals, so i can buy them before i start tearing things down.
I also have a bottle of lock tite ready for the job.

Also does the swivel ball have grease inside or gear oil?, if its oil can i just replace it with the same gear oil i got for the Diff?

 

You won't know until you get in there. It came with oil originally, but many switch to grease if they've got leaking problems. If you do a bit of wading in water, then you're better off using oil. 90/140w oil works just fine

 

The rotors can be hard to get off. They get rusted on to the hubs. There is a phillips screw holding the rotor on that can be hard to get out. Use a large phillips bit and a impact hammer. If it strips the head, just drill the head off, then unscrew the rest of it after you have the rotor off with a vise grip. I like to use stock Land Rover rotors and pads. Some high performance pads do not work good when cold but work very good when hot, like the Hawk HPS pads. They require more pedal pressure when cold.


Willie

 

Thanks Willie, but my Disco is a 97, I dont believe the rotor is hold by a screw, i think thats on a Disco II.

 

Use the Defender double lip RTC3511 hub seal.


Loctiite 270 on the drive flange bolts and rotor bolts.
You'll need 12pt socket for the rotor and caliper bolts

The RTC3511 seal has a lip larger than the hub bore


but needs to be recessed 4mm in to the hub


The front axle hub flange has a lip that works well for recessing it. The lip is about 7 or 7mm though, so don't drive it down all the way


A brass hammer is your, and the hub's, friend


Use Never Seeze on the new rotor where it fits over the OD of the hub, for next time. You can see the silver smear in a couple of the photos.

I'd get a one or two hub bearing sets in case you have a bad bearing. If you do, replace the cone and cup both, never mix old and new.
Timken SET37, SKF BR37, *** KIT38.
Pep Boys, Advance Auto, Autozone, NAPA, etc

Might want to read this post, and maybe others in the thread
https://landroverforums.com/forum/sh...30&postcount=6

Somewhere I have photo documentation of doing a complete D1 brake conversion to D90 brakes, including the MC and converting the flex lines to SS. Wish I could find the photos.

 

Oh men that is some really good information!!!, I really appreciate it!!!.

 

SO i got around and replaced the front rotors as well as new pads.

I did this because i believe that my disco is lacking breaking power, i know it doesent have the braking power of a car, but ive had a couple of disco's in the past, and i feel like this one lacks braking power.

Anyways.., Im wondering if you need to bleed the brakes after this.. i don't think so, since i did not remove any lines, but what do you guys think??

2 months ago i replaced the fluid with Synthetic DOT4 fluid (the bleed and keep the reservoir full method), after that the breaking improved slightly but not enough.

While replacing pads, i did noticed that on one of the calipers, there is 1 cylinder that is not working, and when i pushed on any 2 cylinders, the opposite side came back out, is this normal?
Ill buy a couple of Caliper rebuild kit's to do both calipers just in case..

Thanks in advance for youre help.

 

Replacing the flex lines, if it's never been done, will help at least some. As they age they swell internally and part of your hydraulic pressure is used to expand them to their original ID.