100k Mile Club - High Mileage Observations & Maintanance
#1
100k Mile Club - High Mileage Observations & Maintanance
Wanted to start a thread for owners that have hit the 100k miles milestone (I’m currently just shy of 106k) where we can track issues and maintenance that are important to be aware of for our higher mileage engines. How many 100k+ owners do we have on here?!
The P300 engine has gotten lots of flack these past couple of years but I have been nothing short of impressed with ours over nearly 3 years of ownership! We have towed with it about 30k miles (2 ton off-road camper trailer) and have done about 7k off- road miles varying from 1-7 in difficulty. I wanted to share two lists to hopefully get the ball rolling, and others can share as well:
Preventative Maintenance performed:
The P300 engine has gotten lots of flack these past couple of years but I have been nothing short of impressed with ours over nearly 3 years of ownership! We have towed with it about 30k miles (2 ton off-road camper trailer) and have done about 7k off- road miles varying from 1-7 in difficulty. I wanted to share two lists to hopefully get the ball rolling, and others can share as well:
Preventative Maintenance performed:
- 1,000 mile break-in procedure
- Initial oil change at 2k miles, oil changes performed every 6-8k miles thereafter
- Engine air filter replaced every 10k or when conditions have required us to swap sooner
- Diff and transfer case fluid changed at 50k (was quite dirty), checked again at 90k but still good, will change again at ~110k
- Brakes changed at ~50k
- Transmission fluid changed at 70k (checked it at 50k but was still good)
- Drive belt replaced at 70k (belt changed as precautionary measure before trip to Arctic Ocean and Alaska, wear was not excessive)
- Spark plugs replaced at 70k, were not too bad but a couple were a bit dirtier than I expected
- Additional Brake fluid flushes at 80 and 100k
- Aux radiator small leak, replaced under warranty (late 2021)
- Front air spring leak, replaced under extended warranty. Found out it was a defect with the batch when manufacture through a service bulletin, but no issues before (summer 2023)
- Replaced one of the drive belt pulleys, was starting to make a whining noice — I have seen some other P300’s have this issue as well, not major though and a quick fix (Fall 2023)
- Replaced Oil Blanking plug, very small leak identified at 100k service
- Should I service the timing chain soon? I’ve seen that some ingenium engines have issues
- Should wheel bearing assemblies be replaced proactively or only if they show signs of an impending issue?
- Should we be switching to a high-mileage oil or continue sticking to factory recommendation?
The following 7 users liked this post by mrmihai:
ba_ (02-28-2024),
GrouseK9 (02-29-2024),
johnsonmc2000 (07-31-2024),
notourist (03-01-2024),
ponder (04-09-2024),
and 2 others liked this post.
#2
Nice to hear. A few questions:
1. what rear diff do you have? locking or open?
2. if rear is locking diff, did you notice any difference of spent oil between rear diff and front diff?
3. did you noticed any difference of spent oil between transfer case and rear diff? assuming locking diff.
from what I read, the locking, in both transfer case and locking diff, is very active. This should warrant a more frequent oil change, than that of auto transmission.
Glad to know you have got a quality one.
1. what rear diff do you have? locking or open?
2. if rear is locking diff, did you notice any difference of spent oil between rear diff and front diff?
3. did you noticed any difference of spent oil between transfer case and rear diff? assuming locking diff.
from what I read, the locking, in both transfer case and locking diff, is very active. This should warrant a more frequent oil change, than that of auto transmission.
Glad to know you have got a quality one.
The following users liked this post:
NoGaBiker (02-28-2024)
#3
I'm just over 99k. 2020 P300.
I've had mostly the same issues:
I've had mostly the same issues:
- Coolant leak
- Front air spring leak
- Replaced belt tensioner assembly (both pulleys)
- Replaced oil blanking plug
- Replaced PCV valve (and spark plugs while i was in there) - fixed weird misfire that would trigger limp mode with no check engine light
The following users liked this post:
GrouseK9 (02-29-2024)
#5
Nice to hear. A few questions:
1. what rear diff do you have? locking or open?
2. if rear is locking diff, did you notice any difference of spent oil between rear diff and front diff?
3. did you noticed any difference of spent oil between transfer case and rear diff? assuming locking diff.
from what I read, the locking, in both transfer case and locking diff, is very active. This should warrant a more frequent oil change, than that of auto transmission.
Glad to know you have got a quality one.
1. what rear diff do you have? locking or open?
2. if rear is locking diff, did you notice any difference of spent oil between rear diff and front diff?
3. did you noticed any difference of spent oil between transfer case and rear diff? assuming locking diff.
from what I read, the locking, in both transfer case and locking diff, is very active. This should warrant a more frequent oil change, than that of auto transmission.
Glad to know you have got a quality one.
I'm just over 99k. 2020 P300.
I've had mostly the same issues:
I've had mostly the same issues:
- Coolant leak
- Front air spring leak
- Replaced belt tensioner assembly (both pulleys)
- Replaced oil blanking plug
- Replaced PCV valve (and spark plugs while i was in there) - fixed weird misfire that would trigger limp mode with no check engine light
#6
with coffee, read your main post once again and having some ideas to share with you.
when you check fluid in diff and TC at 90k, how were they determined as "still good" and no need to change for another 20k? and similarly for the ATF check at 50K and determined be the same?
timing chain itself is very strong.
I read much more stretching than broken and I believe both are likely caused by sever abuse.
Timing belt is more problematic. The belt is made of rubber/fibre based, it ages and weakens and fails, and needs be changed in 60-100 k, regularly.
LR's Ingenum engines have chain, not belt. So we are safer.
One risk of the chain is the plastic chain guides. Bad design causes fails as aging. Another one is chain tensioner, fails by lacking of oil change and by manufacturing defects.These fails usually causing noise you can hear. so you will have a bit time to fix them, then no real damage.
fuel filter does get dirty, so 100k? then there are fuel injectors needing be cleaned (100k?)
Also the fuel pumb (?k) for it is made with lots of plastic bits inside and they move all the time and can get brittle.
I need another cup of coffee...
when you check fluid in diff and TC at 90k, how were they determined as "still good" and no need to change for another 20k? and similarly for the ATF check at 50K and determined be the same?
timing chain itself is very strong.
I read much more stretching than broken and I believe both are likely caused by sever abuse.
Timing belt is more problematic. The belt is made of rubber/fibre based, it ages and weakens and fails, and needs be changed in 60-100 k, regularly.
LR's Ingenum engines have chain, not belt. So we are safer.
One risk of the chain is the plastic chain guides. Bad design causes fails as aging. Another one is chain tensioner, fails by lacking of oil change and by manufacturing defects.These fails usually causing noise you can hear. so you will have a bit time to fix them, then no real damage.
fuel filter does get dirty, so 100k? then there are fuel injectors needing be cleaned (100k?)
Also the fuel pumb (?k) for it is made with lots of plastic bits inside and they move all the time and can get brittle.
I need another cup of coffee...
#8
with coffee, read your main post once again and having some ideas to share with you.
when you check fluid in diff and TC at 90k, how were they determined as "still good" and no need to change for another 20k? and similarly for the ATF check at 50K and determined be the same?
timing chain itself is very strong.
I read much more stretching than broken and I believe both are likely caused by sever abuse.
Timing belt is more problematic. The belt is made of rubber/fibre based, it ages and weakens and fails, and needs be changed in 60-100 k, regularly.
LR's Ingenum engines have chain, not belt. So we are safer.
One risk of the chain is the plastic chain guides. Bad design causes fails as aging. Another one is chain tensioner, fails by lacking of oil change and by manufacturing defects.These fails usually causing noise you can hear. so you will have a bit time to fix them, then no real damage.
fuel filter does get dirty, so 100k? then there are fuel injectors needing be cleaned (100k?)
Also the fuel pumb (?k) for it is made with lots of plastic bits inside and they move all the time and can get brittle.
I need another cup of coffee...
when you check fluid in diff and TC at 90k, how were they determined as "still good" and no need to change for another 20k? and similarly for the ATF check at 50K and determined be the same?
timing chain itself is very strong.
I read much more stretching than broken and I believe both are likely caused by sever abuse.
Timing belt is more problematic. The belt is made of rubber/fibre based, it ages and weakens and fails, and needs be changed in 60-100 k, regularly.
LR's Ingenum engines have chain, not belt. So we are safer.
One risk of the chain is the plastic chain guides. Bad design causes fails as aging. Another one is chain tensioner, fails by lacking of oil change and by manufacturing defects.These fails usually causing noise you can hear. so you will have a bit time to fix them, then no real damage.
fuel filter does get dirty, so 100k? then there are fuel injectors needing be cleaned (100k?)
Also the fuel pumb (?k) for it is made with lots of plastic bits inside and they move all the time and can get brittle.
I need another cup of coffee...
Good point on the fuel injector and filter, will look into that.
#9
Quick update I wanted to share. Just got my second t-case and diff oil change at about 107k miles. We ran into the same issue when we changed the fluids the first time at 50k miles, the infamous thud and clatter from the clutch packs. We had to follow the routine outlined in the service bulletin I shared here not once, but twice, to make the new noises go away. Seems like a code issue in the system, all works well now. Used factory fluids with change.
#10
Thanks for sharing all these first hand experience.
The common component among the transmission, the locking transfer case and the locking rear diff is clutch pack, with many friction disks. They all are alternatively "locked" and "unlocked" to perform their function. lots of material is thus transferred into the lubrication fluid/oil and turn them from clear/new into dark/spent and eventually diminish lubricating capacity.
I believe frequent fluid change will for sure keep the tranny, the TC and the L-R-diff running trouble free longer. It is just my opinion.
Again, thanks for sharing.
The common component among the transmission, the locking transfer case and the locking rear diff is clutch pack, with many friction disks. They all are alternatively "locked" and "unlocked" to perform their function. lots of material is thus transferred into the lubrication fluid/oil and turn them from clear/new into dark/spent and eventually diminish lubricating capacity.
I believe frequent fluid change will for sure keep the tranny, the TC and the L-R-diff running trouble free longer. It is just my opinion.
Again, thanks for sharing.