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Old Feb 28, 2023 | 10:40 PM
  #11  
Adamalli's Avatar
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Joined: Oct 2022
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From: CO
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To me it sounds like there might be a short somewhere. You should replace the fuse and then turn the vehicle on. If there is a short it should blow the fuse right away and a trip to the dealer service center for warranty work will be in your future. It is also possible that something that was previously plugged into the 7 pin caused the fuse to blow.

@Huc Side note for you. Your karavan does not have power pin of the 7 pin connector actually hooked up to anything. I was digging around in some of the 7 pin wiring the other day and found that the wire is just cut and loose in the bundle of wires shrinked wrapped under the tongue box. In my case I repurposed it to power my backup camera on the trailer. This way the camera isn't always drawing power from the main battery.
 
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Old Feb 28, 2023 | 10:46 PM
  #12  
Huc's Avatar
Huc
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Joined: May 2022
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From: Colorado
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Originally Posted by Adamalli
@Huc Side note for you. Your karavan does not have power pin of the 7 pin connector actually hooked up to anything. I was digging around in some of the 7 pin wiring the other day and found that the wire is just cut and loose in the bundle of wires shrinked wrapped under the tongue box. In my case I repurposed it to power my backup camera on the trailer. This way the camera isn't always drawing power from the main battery.
Yah that's what I believe K.K. USA mentioned during trailer hand off and pre-order. Which makes perfect sense as the LRD plug would have power but the KK cable doesn't 'need it' as there's an Anderson plug

Thanks for clarification and great tip of the camera option - might be something to add!
 
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Old Mar 1, 2023 | 12:08 AM
  #13  
nashvegas's Avatar
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Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Whidbey Island, PNW
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The wiring diagram is interesting as it shows the 4 pin flat connector and 7 pin round one on the same diagram. Took me a sec to figure out. Love learning new things / deciphering.
 
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Old Sep 27, 2025 | 08:58 AM
  #14  
AUH's Avatar
AUH
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From: Abu Dhabi, UAE
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Originally Posted by Huc
I'll take a stab but not 100% I'll be on target

In my 110x I run dedicated charge wiring for my trailer in addition to the factory installed 7 pin setup various pics posted here). I'm running 6 gauge multi-strand wire + 50amp resettable breaker + Andersen Connector from LRD battery to rear tow point. In turn I have two cables to/from the trailer. One North American standard 7 pin for lights, signals, etc. + one Andersen Connector to the trailer charging control system and Lithium batteries.

Essentially what I have is:
  1. Trailer 7 pin connection by Land Rover
  2. Andersen Connection by Owner
Basically running the fridge (etc) draws off trailer 12v battery system which is charged by solar when disconnected and/or tow vehicle and solar when towing/driving. Perhaps it's an issue where the LRD must be running to energize the 7 port pin and run the trailer jack?

Sorry I can't offer much more than that guess. In my case the trailer jack is manual and I've never checked to see if the 7 pin trailer pin is putting juice to the trailer. I do know that my trailer required a dedicated Anderson plug as noted above to properly get enough juice to engage the trailer charging system when in tow. Just tossing out that I dedicated charge cable to run those types of trailer accessories might the a practical solution.

Hope that possibly helpful. With an AUS build trailer here in the US I'm a bit of a weirdo in many respects. I can confirm I like the two wire connection system (7 pin + Anderson) and find it very efficient and convenient.
Would you be able to share more details on how you got the Andersen Connector wired? I also have an AUS trailer and looking to charge the trailer while driving by Andersen Connector. Any advice on where you wired it to exactly and how you got the wire to the trailer hitch would be appreciated. I'm hoping there is a way to only power the trailer while the vehicle/alternator is running.
 
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