Got some Lucky 8 rocksliders and freaked out realizing my scissor jacks now don't have place to jack up from. Good news is I've hated those things. What's a good replacement?

Found some recommendations buried in another thread but what's the best option w/o getting a ARB/high lift jack? Anything better than the following with a jack base?

 

Eagle jack is the best option. Only drawback is where to stowe it

 

Looks like a good jack. I do want something I can fit under the "lid" in the back.

 

You could also cut access holes in those Rock sliders to allow you to still use your scissor jack. On the Rock sliders we build in house we allow to retain use of the factory Jack if one cares to. Basically is just an access hole.



As far as a compact alternative to the factory scissor jack, I believe you would have the option of a bottle jack. It is not ideal either for an independent suspension vehicle, but as an emergency Jack, it will work. hi lift and the new ARB Jack are both still large and not optimal. It really depends on how often you need to use it, and how stable and safe you would like it to be. I just finished using it on my friends 110 that popped an airbag. Hands down the best Jack in my opinion.

Makes very short work of any jacking situation. Also I like to use a very cool add-on safety support that allows me to take the pressure off the jack and it acts as its own jack stand.

 

My primary goal is to have something functional for a flat on pavement that is compact and in the load space. For offroading I can buy and bring a hi-lift jack or even the Pro eagle. I just don't want to carry these devices every day..

How stable is using a bottle jack and lifting via the flat surface on the rock slider? I've seen pictures of alterative lift points that are further in the central part of the car (even behind the wheel), but not sure how feasible it is to climb under with a flat and i lying down doesn't seem obvious where I can start jacking from.. In that last picture i can tell where that point is on my car in the rear, but where would you do it from the front?

 

I like the Safe Jack kit. (Safe Jack Off Road Kits | 4WD.com). You'll need to raise to off-road height before a tire change. The damn truck will just keep extending its suspension to keep the tire on the pavement as it's lifted. Because a bottle jack does not have the same range of extension as the scissor, it will require some sort of jack extension reach the truck. The bottle jack and extensions will fit in the same location as your scissor jack.

 

Just ordered the kit with a plastic "pad/base". I'll test it when i get it to make sure i feel its stable. Thanks for the advice!

 

I have no knowlege on the rock sliders so forgive my off-topic point.

Just a note on jacking the car up.

Unless you can't for some off-road situation and certainly when on-road or in your driveway, you should lower the suspension into access mode and even lower via the rear tailgate if you want, before jacking the car. Perhaps it's only with the power off and/or door open, but the suspension in the other three corners you're not jacking will not actively raise up when you jack.

How do I know?

Because I was following the advice to raise the car up to off-road height first, a week or so ago, and couldn't figure out why my 3 ton floor jack was no longer tall enough to get the wheel off the ground. I had rotated the tires using the same jack just a month prior without issue.

After making sure the jack was working fine, (it was), the penny dropped. Lowered my suspension into access height and all was well again.

In short. Put it in access height and shut it off and possibly leave a door ajar before jacking.

Very easy to fact check me on this. It makes a big difference.


Primary and secondary jack points in use (rear)

 

I've put the car into "locked" access mode before (two years ago) when changing a tire and thought it stopped the airbags from inflating however recently I can't seem to replicate it. When I lock it now with power off the car/bags still open up ALOT. That scisser jack has to go up pretty high to lift the tire.

Never tried leaving a door open, was that the issue?

 

Locked access mode won't do anything here.

It's just that the other three corners won't actively raise up when you're jacking it. The one you're lifting will still passively keep the wheel on the ground as long as it can It's doesn't actively raise the suspension though. It's just passive. You see this lack of inflation in the suspension when you lower the car back down after. It will drop into the lowest possible position of the air suspension.

Door ajar. Not sure if that makes any difference. Typically it does prevent raising the height in normal conditions. I think having the power off is the bigger issue.