I wanted to share my reflections on my new tires. I put them on my 2020X with the caliper grind (Tuff Ant 18" wheels). When I first got the vehicle back from the tire shop, I failed to request the internal balancing beads. As a result, with the KM3's, they were difficut to balance and had stacks and stacks of weights on the inside of the rim. My rear calipers made short work of them before I even got out of the parking lot. I would highly reccomed the beads to anyone running the 18" wheels with the larger brakes.

Also, I'm not unhappy, but the mud tires are significatnly more noisy. I was prepared for it, but wasn't share how bad it would be. I had K02's on my previous vehicle, and they are noticiably louder than those.

For those interested, I'm on 1.5" lift rods and don't have any rubbing, but I'm very close.

 

As far as the balancing goes. I would love to see where the wheel weights are placed on the wheel. It is incredible how many shops have issues with balancing tires that rarely have to do with the wheels and tires themselves. Another factor that i feel is almost a requirement is the use of hub adapters on the wheel balancer. Most balancing issues are related to not getting the wheel and tire assembly perfectly and properly centered and mounted to the machine. If they are "chasing weights" as we call it, the assembly is not properly mounted on the machine. Also a high end balancer will tell you where to clock the tire on the rim for the least amount of weight . As far as balancing beads, i am not a fan of them in small tires. I always prefer a dynamic balance. I would only suggest them in extremely large tires and dedicated off roaders. I can see if they have to have a bunch of stickers inside the drum of the wheel where you have extremely limited clearance with your brakes, maybe beads is an adequate compromise, but it would be my last resort. Any MT tire will be substantially louder on the road than an AT. Benefits from the MT are only noticed off road. If u spend a majority of time on road, MT is a less than optimal choice. Usually terrible in snow, ice and rain. They also have terrible wear patterns and tire life. You get lucky to get 30k out of a set even utilizing 5 tire rotates every 2500 miles. I have 30k on mine and they still have tread, but basically are worn out. I am getting ready to get my second set now. It has been one year. But i am still getting MTs. Just cant beat them off road. Game changer. Just my 2c

 

I haven’t had any issues getting tires balanced from street tires to 37” mud tires. HOWEVER I always always always have to make sure the tire guy doing the balancing knows what the yellow and or red dots mean and how that affect where to place the tire on the wheel. Yellow being the lightest point and red meaning the highest (as to roundness) point. It can make a big difference. As well (as previously posted) the proper attachment to the machine. A bad tire or wheel could be possible but usually the method is the culprit. I’m also not a fan of the beads. Check your tires and look for the dots yellow (line up with valve stem) or red (line up with the low spot in the wheel which you might not be able to see at this point. It a marking on the wheel). And see where they line up. That’s where I would start. Hope this helps

gary

edit: forgot to mention, nice tire choice! only MTs for me. ATs never seems to be enough for me in this FLA muck.

 

Yellow dots and red dots, you learn something new everyday! You would THINK the tire shops would all know this. Thanks for the tips.

 

How’s the suspension ride with the 1.5" rod lift, compared to stock? Also, is it noticeably stiffer / too stiff off road in off road height?