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BTW, while one might not think breaking an axel is a big deal or possible. On older Defenders and Series vehicles most of use kept a right & left spare rear axel and one of the flanges. It was not uncommon at all to clean out all the splines on one or the other. Apparently it was a design safety factor, fail the rather cheap axel before you frag the transmission/transfer case. It was stupidly easy to change as well, six bolts and the flange would come off, slide the axel out. Big deal was having a Wetworth wrench (which the supplied toolkit had) for the big nut on the axel end. You also needed this splined felt washer if the old one was a bit dodgy, probably needed the thing gasket under the flange as well. That could wait till you got back to base. It just made the flange leak less, add a cotter pin and your all set to go. Very field doable. If you broke a front one, a bit more involved. Not may folks carried them, kind of bulky as they had a big U-Joint in the end that was in the swivel.
Somehow, I suspect it is way more involved on the new Defender and not nearly as cheap.
The locking diffs are cool, but really the traction control works so very well. Spent the last two days in the field before the really big snow event tonight and until the forseable future. The Wx was making it rather pretty in the sky.
BTW, while one might not think breaking an axel is a big deal or possible. On older Defenders and Series vehicles most of use kept a right & left spare rear axel and one of the flanges. It was not uncommon at all to clean out all the splines on one or the other. Apparently it was a design safety factor, fail the rather cheap axel before you frag the transmission/transfer case. It was stupidly easy to change as well, six bolts and the flange would come off, slide the axel out. Big deal was having a Wetworth wrench (which the supplied toolkit had) for the big nut on the axel end. You also needed this splined felt washer if the old one was a bit dodgy, probably needed the thing gasket under the flange as well. That could wait till you got back to base. It just made the flange leak less, add a cotter pin and your all set to go. Very field doable. If you broke a front one, a bit more involved. Not may folks carried them, kind of bulky as they had a big U-Joint in the end that was in the swivel.
Somehow, I suspect it is way more involved on the new Defender and not nearly as cheap.
The locking diffs are cool, but really the traction control works so very well. Spent the last two days in the field before the really big snow event tonight and until the forseable future. The Wx was making it rather pretty in the sky.
Screw driver and a hammer works just fine for the nut!
Honestly, if you didn't bring a hammer in an old Land Rover, you were a fool. You could always spot the talented LR mechanic by his complete selection of hammers.
Glad you people are doing so well and having all the funs
I am still trying to understand how to tell / check out what's the transfer case in a 24MY Defender.
OK, I will continue, typing as I am thinking:
if the center diff is a regular diff (open / lockable), then, when it is "Open", power from engine will go to the one wheel which is "hanging in the air". When engine is off, if we make one front wheel and one rear wheel in the air, then turning one by hand, the other one should turn, due to all three diffs are all open.
if the transfer case has no regular diff, and engine power goes to the rear permanently, then, with engine off and only one rear wheel in the air, it could not be turned by hand, due to the other rear wheel is sitting on the ground and rear drive shaft is locked, via transfer case and transmission, by the engine. Mean while, one can turn the front one in the air, because front diff is not connected to the center diff.
Just a mind experiment. I wish I had access to a MY24 and a MY22, so I could try it out.
Your model year 24 definitely is RWD with torque on demand 4wd. Your experiment would work if you disabled your rear parking brake. It always sets when you turn off the ignition and or open the door.
Your dealership will not always be a wealth of knowledge on this. I figured this out when i noticed the difference in the CCF settings when i do activations. It is listed as a rear wheel drive, front axle disconnect, and no CDL. These 3 settings are different than the 22MY and older. Then, you can look at the front axle tube and see that it does have a solenoid on it. The older ones dont have anything on thenfront axle tube. Also the tcase looks different and has a few more electronics on it. The case is a bit longer, so the length of the rear driveshaft is shorter. Take a look at the parts catalog. All the changes are there, just not super detailed about the difference, other than it is different. As i mentioned before, i did remove the front driveshaft from a 2023 90 p300 that we did a stage 3 build with regearing to 4.44 and a selectable rear locker. I was able to drive it without the front driveshaft installed. Absolutely no way this would work on a 22 or older. Between all the info, the ccf settings and my test, there is a major difference between the 2 systems. Im not sure what the drivability difference on or off road would be. , but i can only guess that the rwd variant would be my choice.
