I used interior trim tool, a couple different styles, better get some extra clips.
You may break a couple or have them fall in the body abyss.

 

Has anyone had these re-finished in glossy black? Considering these for my new Defender, but I have glossy trim everywhere and I am not sure how the matte black will look along side all the glossy bits. I did find a pair of rear quarter panel/tail lights that were previously re-finished in glossy - but it did not look as good as the current glossy hood plates I have. My local dealer's recommended body shop is shying away from doing these as they are plastic and they claim it won't last (my understanding there is plastic-specific paint and primer that should be used).

Cheers,
Craig

 

Painted mine gloss black, wheel arch extensions as well.

 

Poor photos, bad lighting in my warehouse. I still need to cut and buff the orange peel in the clear coat.

 

They look great! What did you do for prep? Type of paint? Would love to get the extended arches as well, but the matte over the gloss I have now simply won't look good.

I am getting a lot of pushback from the bodyshop my dealer uses - saying the polypropylene bits simply won't turn out well and/or last. I have reached out to a high-restoration shop to see if they have any ideas (trying to avoid this turning into a big project).

 

I got mine real chap -eBay. Chinese knockoffs. The entire set is about 200$ : front / rear / sill and mirrors. They are not glossy. I put them on as they are. No paint, and they look very well even though I have the rest of the OEM stuff glossy.
When you go off-roading, they all gonna look the same. Dirty.
However, I don't think is an eye sore, and compared with the "OEM" ones they are extremely close. This boils down to a personal preference matter.

 

Do they have double sided taped ones? I don't want to remove the oem ones and just tape it instead(for the rear)?

 

All of the black on my Hakuba Silver 90 X is gloss black, I didn't want to install flat black bits.
I only used Genuine Land Rover parts, not the cheap ones from China.
DIY for a quality, durable gloss finish requires several steps and not to mention some pricy products.
Follow the directions on the spray cans precisely. If it is hot make sure a drop of your sweat does not land on a part prior to or during spraying.
Shake all cans very well, me 3 minutes each.

1. Nitrile gloves are a must to prevent finger prints.
2. Spray down the parts completely with good quality 99% Alcohol not the 75%, and wipe with microfiber towel.
3. Do not spray the black and clear coat unless the relative humidity is 50% or less (very important), and temps between 70 - 85 degrees F.
4. Spray parts including edges with Bulldog Adhesion Promoter, 2-3 light coats, couple of minutes between coats.
5. Within 5 minutes spray NEW can of Gloss Black Rust-Oleum Enamel 3 coats, few minutes between coats.
6. Within 15 minutes spray the Eastwood clear coat, 2-3 coats.
7. Let dry for a week or so for best results.
8. Polish with rubbing compound, then Machine polish if you want to get rid of the orange peel in the clear coat. This photo was taken prior to polishing.

.
The important coat is the Eastwood clear coat. It is very expensive like the Bulldog and this is not the time to save money by using inferior products. I have restored several vehicles over the years and there are no issues with painting a durable finish on plastic if the prep is done correctly. The Bulldog provides a chemical bond between the paint and the plastic if applied correctly. Any reputable paint shop can do this for you.

 

You got some nice setup there, and yes of you have the tools and know how, sure. I don't even have the space.
All mine are stickers, including the rear lamps. I need them for utility / practicality. Are they looking as pretty as yours ? Absolutely no. But they ultimately serve the same purpose.

 

Link on your purchase? The rear lamp, do they have the stick-ons?