For context: my Rubicon is now dead and it's time to move on.

I am at the beginning of my homework run for a Defender 110, and I want to order a very specific configuration crafted to what I use it for: firmly, offroad (mostly overland/exploration), with no useless options, and as many stock components as possible so I can spend time offroading instead of fiddling with mods - though I'm not against them, and usually do all the upgrades and maintenance myself.

So, questions, in no particular order, except the first:

- Are there any Land Rover original offroad upgrades/options (say, like the Expedition Roof) that do NOT live up to expectations, and are better replaced with third party alternatives right off the bat? And, on the other end, are there factory installed components (looks like the winch may be one) that will cost less, perform better, and/or be a lesser hassle to install than aftermarket?

- Land Rover online configuration: is that system exhaustive, or do the dealers have access to systems that have more hidden options than are on the site?

- Trim: with other manufacturers, higher trims usually include optional equipment from lower trims and the result may turn out less expensive while having more relevant options. Does this rule hold here, or I'll be better off building up off the base and including everything I want piecemeal? The downside of higher trims is that I might get things that are irrelevant or unnecessary, I don't want to do that.

- Wheels: it looks like the factory options are only 20" and 19", that's insane. I think I will have to get rid of the stock wheels right away, however, what's the smallest rim that will fit on stock brakes? Or are 19" good enough for the job? (I know that the base 110 comes with 18" steelies, I think I'd still want at least I6, though)

- Engine choice: do I really need the V8? Does V8 upset the front/rear balance and make it nose heavy on road when loaded lightly? Is I6 adequate for 110 both on the road and off with an overlanding load and 5 people in the vehicle, given the fact that it will be climbing a lot, in particular, on steep rocky mountain trails, and on blacktop mountain roads?

- Does the stock raised air intake (snorkel, VPLEP0435) double as an additional dust filter? Lots of my driving is in the desert.

- Integrated air compressor: is it detachable without tools? Is it on par with standalone compressors, does it make sense to get it?

- Integrated dashcam (VPLKV0134): can't find specs anywhere yet, what's the resolution and frame rate? Sure it's nice that it is integrated, but is it up to par with third party devices, ignoring the fact that they need power cables?

- Pinstripe: I *will* get it scratched - not that I want to, it's the trails I take. Which kit protects the most surface from harsh vegetation the best - the "wheel arch protection" that comes included into offroad packages, the "chequered body protection kit" (VPLEP0384 + VPLEP0419 + VPLEP0536), or piecemeal combination thereof (wheel arch protection + VPLEP0419 + VPLEP0536), or will the whole body get scratched regardless of what I do?

- Rock rails: I *will* get touchdowns, and the existing frame sides look like they're going to crumple when I look at them cross eyed. Are they tougher than they look? If not, what rock rails I can get that won't sacrifice clearance the way the stock rails (VPLEP0521?) do?

- Bottom skid plates: I *will* get high centered, are the stock skid plates good enough? I don't plan to abuse them, but well, you know, things happen...

- I heard an opinion that, quote, "stock front end armor is weak". Are the parts listed at LAND ROVER ACCESSORY FITTING INSTRUCTIONS in "Exterior" section upgrades, or cosmetic changes? I would love to get the front end as tough as the Rubicon, that part of it did take some serious hits, but survived with just scratches. In particular, is
VPLEP0436 metal, or still plastic?

- Does Land Rover honor their warranty when the vehicle was obviously used offroad? In particular, does presence of 18" wheels cause any problems?

- What are *your* favorite upgrades to upgrade offroad quality of life?

Last, but not least - what breaks? What do I need to be especially careful about? What are the non-obvious things that I should *not* be doing, especially those that seem natural in a Rubicon but will get me into trouble in a Defender?

And the very last thing - with the recent incredibly long lead times and parts shortages, how is Land Rover holding its end of the bargain when something breaks under the warranty? I've heard horror stories about Ford and Stellantis vehicles being sold because owners gave up on repairs due to lack of parts, wouldn't want to be in the same boat here.

 

What I'd do given the context you provide (and not knowing how you drive the Rubicon specifically)... something like this could be a good baseline:

The most basic trim level (SE? X-Dynamic SE?) you can get and do this:
P400 (inline 6)
20's (best you can do w/ the P400)
Rear locker
Adaptive cruise
Front skid plate
Rear recovery loops
Built in hitch + tow wiring
Air suspension
Expedition rack (yes it's great, its functional and works and is strong, have to get clever w/ mounting stuff / adapters / t-bolts to it, others go aftermarket depends on what you want to do with it)

Upgrades:
-Hidden winch install. Expensive. the genuine platinum LR warn only has a wireless control and I can't get past the potential scenario of a recovery in the dark in the snow and the wireless not working -- I bought a diff warn with both wireless/wired remote capability btw. Otherwise using the Land Rover stuff.
-PPF it. I bought this to offroad it. The self healing PPF keeps things a bit better?
-Rock Sliders yes . BTW those Land Rover ones you reference are basically side steps for grandma... zero impact protection, or maybe just one impact that then destroys them and maybe also gets your sill also anyways
-1.5" rod lift if you stick with 20" wheels
-Bigger badder tires if you stick with 20" wheels (I have 275/60 K02's w/ a 1.5" rod lift no rubbing)

I have the integrated air compressor in the trunk and I think it's the coolest thing ever esp for airing down trailside (and back up).

I got a Blackvue 900x instead of the LR camera.

What breaks? I think just rear shock reservoirs so far on heavily run rigs / modded rigs. The crappy-ish stock AT tires pop on rocks. Random coolant leaks. Random software bs issues (but overall software is strong, well done).

Also the Rubicon-death story sounds of interest? Do tell?

PS re: "Land Rover holding its end of the bargain" ... idk... if a part on your Defender breaks that is for whatever reason at that time impossible to source/is backlogged, you're hosed. But my dealers have always made a big fuss about shipping express / air freight for big stuff overseas to get things quickly. LR dealers -- the good ones -- can play the rich guy game pretty well and get you everything ASAP or bend over backwards trying. The bad LR dealers seem like an utter train wreck. I think ***if*** you have a good LR dealer you'll see a very diff level of customer svc than a Jeep or Chrysler or Ford dealer.

 

The toughest I got was rated 7.5/10 at azoffroad.net, if it is of any help. The farthest point from home was the Dome Plateau Overlook and Chicken Corners, I've just been passing Moab and couldn't get to other trails in time. I have no interest in rock climbing for the sake of rock climbing, but I love to get up high, sit there, and look around. Colorado is very high on the bucket list.

I guess I should've included the build spec - not final, just a 15 min rehash of what I came up with, it will get more detailed with time: https://build.landrover/998F2C11 - there's a couple of stray luxury items that don't have an obvious way to delete them

If I got it right, X-Dynamic is just cosmetic, it's probably X (to be confirmed)

So, no V8, huh? No big deal, I like both
That I would absolutely hate. I know for sure that I will blow them very soon just like these guys did it at 12:00 and again at 14:09: - my terrain is even sharper than theirs.

So I guess the default wheels will have to go - BUT, what's the smallest rim I can get on those brakes? I hope it's not 20", that build above is configured with 19", but I based it off SE, not X, will have to revisit
Yep, all of that already was on my list. Nice to hear that about the rack - I just saw a picture of someone's whole family sitting on it Front skid plate - which one do you mean, Front Undershield, Front Expedition Protection System, or both? That is, assuming I don't get the winch, which looks like it replaces both of them. Are these metal, or plastic?

Also, what about that big box on the right side? I heard complaints that it impacts visibility, can't verify yet - Defenders are hard to get for test drive.

I'm torn on this. I appreciate the utility of it, but also know quite a few people that were offroading for decades and never needed it. Sure thing, it's better to have it and not need it than the other way around, but that's a lot of weight to carry. Still thinking.

Also eyeing this. There are several kits - this, and this (which also has two part numbers), it looks to me that I want to combine them to get the best protection, no? (some items are mutually exclusive)

Self-healing - did you mean something aftermarket?

Yep, that's exactly what I thought after I saw them. Aftermarket it is, then.

Don't like non-factory lifts :/

I was hoping to hear that.

Noted. That dashcam is sure stock, but is sure murky - no details anywhere.

Noted. Digging further.

So far, the biggest concern is the 20" rims - insane.
Not interesting at all - a mundane traffic accident. What is interesting, though, is that it was totaled even though the damage looked pretty benign - more below

I heard recently that these exact brands have a huge problem with backorders, up to the point that people were giving up and selling their vehicles because they couldn't get them repaired. I strongly suspect that the Jeep was totaled because the quote was based on extra-super-ultra-expedited shipping ahead of the line, and the insurance didn't have any interest in paying that *and* rental reimbursement.

 

You're right 19" or 20" are insane. We went 19" not realizing how few tires are available in that size. Luckily they are fine for our uses but I wouldn't suggest them for much more aggressive use. If I were you I'd be very tempted to shave or convert the calipers and go with 18's.

The L6 is sublime and should be fine for your use. One owned my share of V8's, but man this is a fine motor.

If, when overlanding you think you'll have cargo piled to the roof on the cabin, then my favorite tech option is the Clearsight Rear View mirror. I've thought about adding one to my JKUS because it's so damn handy.

The air suspension and the locking diffs etc are pretty impressive. Our main off-road use is deep, loose, sugar sand. On summer street tires the thing just finds traction that my JKUS w/Trac-Lok rear on MT's couldn't find. My JKUS gets the job done but sometimes breaks a sweat. The Defender doesn't seem to perspire. It's almost laughingly and effortlessly capable.

 

Why rule out the p300? If your main focus is overlanding and off roading as I am, we tend to want things to be as simple, lightweight, and as reliable as possible.

P300 is:
LighterLess complex (not MHEV)
Gives you 18 inch wheelsMuch less moneyPlenty of power (300hp)

​​​​​Consider coils vs air.
much less complex and much more durable. Also you avoid the electronic dampening shocks.
​​​​​​Get the hitch kit (not the tow package)

Possibly get the rear active differential. But there is a better option that will be available soon. By no means is the active differential required for even extreme terrain. It will add to the capability, but it does add a large amount of complexity. The clutches and ball ramps do wear in those units and also can get noisy. When the ARB is available, i believe it will be the better option
​​​​​​Take the rest of your money and invest in a solid set of off road tires, rock sliders, winch (preferably not hidden) and any other goodies you will want. A large portion of the jlr off road accessories do fall short in some areas when it comes to real world off road use, so take a good look at some of the stuff offered by the aftermarket. A good place to start would be Lucky 8, amongst others. Just my 2c.



​​​​​​

 

So it looks like the stock brakes don't fit 18" on anything above the S trim? Shame...

I had the same situation with one of my other cars - *one* tire model was available for that size, but in another five years, there were three

(quick check) Wow, indeed - at least Tirerack lists just Goodyear Wrangler Adventure (that's exactly the tire those guys blew up) and Duratrack. I had BFG Mud Terrain originally but changed to KO2 which felt much better, so I'd choose Adventure - but sidewall looks really week so Duratrack should work better even on rocks. Does that sound right?

I wonder how many tires are available in wider tire configuration, and how much wider does the selection become if I'm willing to replace the wheels as well even if I'm staying with 19"?

One question I'm still wrapping my head around (just didn't get to it yet) is, what exactly is the electrical supercharger driving? The turbo?

Yep, that was also already on the list - I didn't like the visibility on the Jeep, so that was an item I inspected in the Defender right away. Cargo or not, I'm ordering it.

Another option which I haven't found on Land Rover build site but the dealer told me it's an individually orderable option is - paddle gear shifters. One of my other cars is a DCT so I got used to it, I just can't imagine driving without those anymore.

I'm sure there'll be a price to pay for this added complexity - everyone and their uncle says the air suspension is the Achilles' heel of the Land Rover Which reminds me, the X-Dynamic that I drove seemed too soft for my taste - are there any trims/configurations that make it firmer on the road?

 

You can either grind a little off the P400 calipers or replace them to get the clearance you need for 18" wheels.

Ironically as a lifelong tech I've not bothered to delve into the forced induction design of the L6. It works, I shouldn't have to fix it for years. I'll worry about it then.

I'm told the air suspension is actually easier to service than the coil. For overland and varied use it's more convenient than coils lowering when parking, extending off-road, and compensating for load.

I love my Jeep, but damn I've replaced my suspension by 50k.

 

Fair. However, there's quite a few things that want me to have at least I6. In order of coming to my mind:

- I love the sound of I6 (call me spoiled, but I do a lot of things in my life for the feel). I ignored this with the Jeep because Pentastar was the only engine available, but if I have a chance to get an I6, I'd love to.

- Load. Again, call me spoiled, but I absolutely hated the fact that I couldn't pass anyone in a Jeep safely, and that I had to downshift A LOT on mountain highways. I test drove the I6 with three people and no load, and got to... the speed everyone on the highway drives at by the end on the onramp with no fuss, that's par for the course in my book. I don't know if P300 will get me what I like with 5 people in the car (our usual crew) and all the trail gear (I've learned my lessons, some of them the hard way, so it's everything every time).

- Extreme heat. Where I live, the Jeep coolant temperature was getting to at least 118C (244F), possibly higher when I didn't have OBDLink connected. Surface temperatures easily exceed 70C (158F). I would rather have some extra cushion for power than blow the engine in the heat because it's exceeding its normal load.

- A bit of caution. The same TFLoffroad team had problems with this particular engine but none other, had to replace the engine under warranty - or return the car and get either money or replacement (which they did). Sure thing, it was an early production run, but still.

Also fair; one of the reasons I originally got the Jeep was simplicity. Sure it is unparalleled offroad - but I wouldn't count on coils on IFS to be as capable as on solid axle. Yes, I prefer overlanding, but there are unexpected obstacles once in a while that might just be showstoppers.

Another reason - I've tried simple and ostensibly reliable Jeep (it has its own share of problems, btw), now wouldn't mind to try the other, "refined" end of the spectrum - this is why I am here and not, say, at 4-Runner forum.

Why? And not to get up twice, I wonder if it is possible to get this hitch configuration? It is sure available in Europe, I wonder why I haven't seen it here. Sure it's more complicated, but it has zero impact on departure angle.

Locking diff is a must. I don't get to places like that often, but when I do, it's sink or swim.

Thanks for your input, homework goes on.

 

Sounds like an aftermarket option exists How does JLR look at that when doing warranty service?

I'm just curious. One of my other cars is a bi turbo (with fast and slow spool up), and even with that configuration I feel the lag (and learned to enjoy its dynamics, very nice not to need to shift to overtake - it just takes off and flies). On the 110 I test drove, though, I didn't hear the turbo sound, nor did I feel the lag (or, rather, the acceleration) specific to how turbo usually feels, even though I floored it.

Varying load and ride height is also one of the reasons I decided to get the air suspension. When the Jeep died and I had to drive my other, faster car that's been sitting idle for years, I immediately noted how confident and glued to the road it feels. I would hope that it would be possible to configure the 110 closer to that - and lowering the ride height would be the first thing to do. I guess I'll learn someday.

I was luckier, the only part I had to replace was rear brake rotors - it ate one of the pads and the rotor in a blink of an eye at some point. The first symptom was the grinding sound of metal on metal - the indicator pin broke off somewhere earlier, apparently; there was no warning.

 

How is air suspension easier to service than coils? . I am not saying that Air does not have benefits. Access mode, load leveling, to name a few. However, the air system is way more complex with air lines, sensors, compressor, rubber air bladders and ECUs. Not to mention electronic dampening shocks. You also need a Scan tool for fault codes and diagnosing issues. Otherwise you have 4 coils and 4 shocks. Which is less likely to leave you stranded in the desert? We were headed to Black Bear Pass last year and we walked out to our Defenders. My buddies 110 air was listed back. It popped a rear bag. Seems like a muddy Colorado rock lodged itself in the bag fold. Then while driving it chaffed the bag and cut it. Rubber bladders can not be as durable as a metal coil. I do believe that the new defenders air suspension is very good. It is fairly reliable in the world of air suspension technology, Air can not claim a benefit over coils in reliability, durability and ease of service. I factor the likelihood of failure into an overland or off-road vehicle. Air suspension is much more likely to have a failure than coils.The new defender is already complex enough IMO. There is a reason why Bowler chose a p300 coil sprung setup for its competition vehicles. Also a lot simpler to engineer and tune suspension for a purpose. Here are pics of some soapy water testing on my buddies 110. Also some pics of the same 110 on another trip to Texas where it broke both rear Electronic Shocks. The resovoir broke off one side and the shaft is fatigued. the other one broke the shaft . The shafts are hollow for the air trucks. Solid shaft no electronics on the coil trucks. This 110 is a 2020 with 52k miles on it. Each rear shock costs $1700 and u still pay to install! Really cool tech until it fails.