GMRS radio installation
#12
#14
Great installation tips...
Very nice install...thank you for the tips/information. I did almost the same install, with an MXT275. I just ordered that A-Tac mount for the mic, as the Midland adhesive holder doesn't stick very well to other surfaces on the Defender. I also opted to go for the Rugged Radios suction cup mount with the MXTA25 3DB Gain Ghost antenna, as I was leery of scratching the hood with the clip on style mount (and routing through the firewall). Opted to route the coax through the back door gap near hinge. https://www.ruggedradios.com/product...-antenna-mount
Some photos of a Midland MXT275 15W 2-way GMRS radio I installed in my 2020 Defender 110.
The stubby 3 db gain "Ghost" antenna is screwed on a standard NMO lip mount over the hood (the mount stays there permanently, the antenna can be unscrewed and stored in the car when not in use) , the antenna wire goes through the firewall and into the cabin through the steering column's rubber boot. Thanks to another poster on this forum for the idea - there are no other easily accessible grommets to pass through the firewall that I could see otherwise.
The head unit is mounted in the empty "storage" space under the cup holder. I attached the supplied bracket to the sturdy rubber tray that sits down there, so no permanent installation holes are required - other than on the tray itself - and the head unit can easily be removed and used on a different car by just sliding it off the bracket if necessary.
The microphone with all the controls (one of the reasons why I like this Midland model - no controls or displays on the head unit, so you can hide that away from sight) hangs from a custom A-Tach mount and attached microphone holder (the holder comes with the radio) to the right of the touchscreen - my cell phone is on the same mount to the left. Since the microphone with coiled cord can be detached from the head unit, it makes for a clutter free console when the radio is not needed.
Power cable with inline fuse and antenna wire from the engine bay are tucked away along the driver side panel of the center console, and pop out on the side of the driver seat to connect to the back of the head unit, so they are not visible.
Hope this helps.
The stubby 3 db gain "Ghost" antenna is screwed on a standard NMO lip mount over the hood (the mount stays there permanently, the antenna can be unscrewed and stored in the car when not in use) , the antenna wire goes through the firewall and into the cabin through the steering column's rubber boot. Thanks to another poster on this forum for the idea - there are no other easily accessible grommets to pass through the firewall that I could see otherwise.
The head unit is mounted in the empty "storage" space under the cup holder. I attached the supplied bracket to the sturdy rubber tray that sits down there, so no permanent installation holes are required - other than on the tray itself - and the head unit can easily be removed and used on a different car by just sliding it off the bracket if necessary.
The microphone with all the controls (one of the reasons why I like this Midland model - no controls or displays on the head unit, so you can hide that away from sight) hangs from a custom A-Tach mount and attached microphone holder (the holder comes with the radio) to the right of the touchscreen - my cell phone is on the same mount to the left. Since the microphone with coiled cord can be detached from the head unit, it makes for a clutter free console when the radio is not needed.
Power cable with inline fuse and antenna wire from the engine bay are tucked away along the driver side panel of the center console, and pop out on the side of the driver seat to connect to the back of the head unit, so they are not visible.
Hope this helps.
The following users liked this post:
DonMitsu (08-23-2023)
#16
Awesome inspiration! How did you run the cables?
Some photos of a Midland MXT275 15W 2-way GMRS radio I installed in my 2020 Defender 110.
The stubby 3 db gain "Ghost" antenna is screwed on a standard NMO lip mount over the hood (the mount stays there permanently, the antenna can be unscrewed and stored in the car when not in use) , the antenna wire goes through the firewall and into the cabin through the steering column's rubber boot. Thanks to another poster on this forum for the idea - there are no other easily accessible grommets to pass through the firewall that I could see otherwise.
The head unit is mounted in the empty "storage" space under the cup holder. I attached the supplied bracket to the sturdy rubber tray that sits down there, so no permanent installation holes are required - other than on the tray itself - and the head unit can easily be removed and used on a different car by just sliding it off the bracket if necessary.
The microphone with all the controls (one of the reasons why I like this Midland model - no controls or displays on the head unit, so you can hide that away from sight) hangs from a custom A-Tach mount and attached microphone holder (the holder comes with the radio) to the right of the touchscreen - my cell phone is on the same mount to the left. Since the microphone with coiled cord can be detached from the head unit, it makes for a clutter free console when the radio is not needed.
Power cable with inline fuse and antenna wire from the engine bay are tucked away along the driver side panel of the center console, and pop out on the side of the driver seat to connect to the back of the head unit, so they are not visible.
Hope this helps.
The stubby 3 db gain "Ghost" antenna is screwed on a standard NMO lip mount over the hood (the mount stays there permanently, the antenna can be unscrewed and stored in the car when not in use) , the antenna wire goes through the firewall and into the cabin through the steering column's rubber boot. Thanks to another poster on this forum for the idea - there are no other easily accessible grommets to pass through the firewall that I could see otherwise.
The head unit is mounted in the empty "storage" space under the cup holder. I attached the supplied bracket to the sturdy rubber tray that sits down there, so no permanent installation holes are required - other than on the tray itself - and the head unit can easily be removed and used on a different car by just sliding it off the bracket if necessary.
The microphone with all the controls (one of the reasons why I like this Midland model - no controls or displays on the head unit, so you can hide that away from sight) hangs from a custom A-Tach mount and attached microphone holder (the holder comes with the radio) to the right of the touchscreen - my cell phone is on the same mount to the left. Since the microphone with coiled cord can be detached from the head unit, it makes for a clutter free console when the radio is not needed.
Power cable with inline fuse and antenna wire from the engine bay are tucked away along the driver side panel of the center console, and pop out on the side of the driver seat to connect to the back of the head unit, so they are not visible.
Hope this helps.
#17
My GMRS Setup: I installed Rigid Industries D-SS Pro Driving Lights on the Saltek Motorsports Hood Mounted Ditch Light Brackets and mounted the Midland MXTA24 Low Profile Antenna Cable and Midland MXTA25 Ghost Antenna to a bracket I fabricated.
The Midland MTX275 GMRS radio is mounted under the cup holders, power/ground & antenna are routed through the vents under the cup holder in the center console (vents are for the center console fridge).
GMRS Handset Mount:
I’m using a Magnetic Mic attached to a A-Tach Low Mount.
Magnetic Mic
https://magneticmic.com/product-info/
A-Tach Mounts: Defender High Mount
https://www.atachmounts.com/Land-Rover-Defender-Phone-Mount_p_388.html
The Midland MTX275 had a USB power outlet on it that I use to charge my Warn Zeon 10-S Platinum Which Remote.
I used Lucky8’s method of running wires in the cabin (link below) for the antenna. I routed the antenna cable to the center console by tucking it behind the floor covering sides in the footwell.
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/2178/4267/files/LK8_Def2_Roof_Wiring_Install_2021.pdf?v=1630502139
I did have to remove the center console side panels to run the antenna cable and power wires. I used the instructions from the PowerfulUK video (link below).
https://youtu.be/Xhc2TKK-e4s
Power/ground go through the center console to the battery compartment under the floor covering and front seat bracket. I taped them to a long zip tie to thread them through. The power is directly connected to the battery using a 5 amp fuse. The ground is attached to a grounding point in the battery compartment.
The Midland MTX275 GMRS radio is mounted under the cup holders, power/ground & antenna are routed through the vents under the cup holder in the center console (vents are for the center console fridge).
GMRS Handset Mount:
I’m using a Magnetic Mic attached to a A-Tach Low Mount.
Magnetic Mic
https://magneticmic.com/product-info/
A-Tach Mounts: Defender High Mount
https://www.atachmounts.com/Land-Rover-Defender-Phone-Mount_p_388.html
The Midland MTX275 had a USB power outlet on it that I use to charge my Warn Zeon 10-S Platinum Which Remote.
I used Lucky8’s method of running wires in the cabin (link below) for the antenna. I routed the antenna cable to the center console by tucking it behind the floor covering sides in the footwell.
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/2178/4267/files/LK8_Def2_Roof_Wiring_Install_2021.pdf?v=1630502139
I did have to remove the center console side panels to run the antenna cable and power wires. I used the instructions from the PowerfulUK video (link below).
https://youtu.be/Xhc2TKK-e4s
Power/ground go through the center console to the battery compartment under the floor covering and front seat bracket. I taped them to a long zip tie to thread them through. The power is directly connected to the battery using a 5 amp fuse. The ground is attached to a grounding point in the battery compartment.
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Tasmanie (03-16-2024)
#18
@GCSchmidt I bought that same Atach high mount for my GMRS handset. I bought it 6 mos ago and just tried installing it a week or so ago. Unfortunately, the darn thing pops off the dash with the slightest of bump in the car. Or sitting with heat. It will stay mounted for no more than a few mins then pops off and falls on the floor.
Are you having this same problem?
Atach told me it's been too long for a return (ugh) .. and we checked I'm installing it properly (it's simple, and I am.). But there is no way mine will "snap on" securely. In fact it's even rubbed a slight area of the surface of the leather off (mine is the leather, not the other PU/non-leather material) so I've given up and thrown it in the trash.
I wonder if it was just made incorrectly, but seems odd that yours works and mine doesn't.
Are you having this same problem?
Atach told me it's been too long for a return (ugh) .. and we checked I'm installing it properly (it's simple, and I am.). But there is no way mine will "snap on" securely. In fact it's even rubbed a slight area of the surface of the leather off (mine is the leather, not the other PU/non-leather material) so I've given up and thrown it in the trash.
I wonder if it was just made incorrectly, but seems odd that yours works and mine doesn't.
#19
@GCSchmidt I bought that same Atach high mount for my GMRS handset. I bought it 6 mos ago and just tried installing it a week or so ago. Unfortunately, the darn thing pops off the dash with the slightest of bump in the car. Or sitting with heat. It will stay mounted for no more than a few mins then pops off and falls on the floor.
Are you having this same problem?
Atach told me it's been too long for a return (ugh) .. and we checked I'm installing it properly (it's simple, and I am.). But there is no way mine will "snap on" securely. In fact it's even rubbed a slight area of the surface of the leather off (mine is the leather, not the other PU/non-leather material) so I've given up and thrown it in the trash.
I wonder if it was just made incorrectly, but seems odd that yours works and mine doesn't.
Are you having this same problem?
Atach told me it's been too long for a return (ugh) .. and we checked I'm installing it properly (it's simple, and I am.). But there is no way mine will "snap on" securely. In fact it's even rubbed a slight area of the surface of the leather off (mine is the leather, not the other PU/non-leather material) so I've given up and thrown it in the trash.
I wonder if it was just made incorrectly, but seems odd that yours works and mine doesn't.
I've had zero issues with mine, I also use one for my iPad and winch controller. Mine definitely snaps in very tightly and has never popped off and no issues on the dash material. Sorry your having these issues. It might just be a bad one. I did have to really bend it into place.
#20
Hi guys that have put the antenna wire through the steering column/ bulk head seal…. Any tips? I can barely reach it and it seems like it’s really two seals. Like an inner and an outer? I stuck an xacto through and didn’t see it out the other end and think this is why:
when I look from cabin side, I do see what would the interior of the inside seal. And from the outside, I do see the outward facing portion (with white plastic fasteners) of the outer seal. So what I’m seeing seems to jive with the pic here. The seals do look different from inside vs outside.
how did you guys get through both and then feed the antenna wire through your holes? Appreciate any tips/tricks!
when I look from cabin side, I do see what would the interior of the inside seal. And from the outside, I do see the outward facing portion (with white plastic fasteners) of the outer seal. So what I’m seeing seems to jive with the pic here. The seals do look different from inside vs outside.
how did you guys get through both and then feed the antenna wire through your holes? Appreciate any tips/tricks!
Last edited by Chris.Gio; 03-12-2024 at 04:43 PM.