When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I think they have limited use with a Defender without sliders. I used to love it for my previous off-road vehicles, but with the Defender - it's actually better to go cheaper and get a bottle jack. Again, if you have sliders, then you have the option. I just have no clue how you would use it, especially with the odd angles typically experienced. Unless of course it's used as a come-along type scenario.
Since you have used the HiLift, what is you opinion of the inline (I think. that is the proper term) winching. I have never used one, so I am still learning.
I have to say, I don’t understand people’s fascination with high-lift jacks. I find them to be a dangerous and poor choice of tool for almost all lifting situations.
I have a lifted Defender 110 with rock sliders. The tubular shape of the sliders makes them unsuitable for jacking with a high lift without a special adapter. I also have no tow hitch. This means I have zero points from which to jack with a high-lift.
Other than possibly your tow hitch, which will only allow you to lift the rear, where are you planning on jacking the vehicle from? You have no jack points for a high-lift on the vehicle. It will do you no good at all. I suggest you ditch your new roof ornament and get a bottle jack and jack base instead.
I'll admit, I didn't think this through and posted a related thread about jack points. I was looking for a solution to the Rube Goldberg instrument all things evil otherwise known as the factory jack and thought a high lift to be the answer. I may be wrong, but I tell you, the factory jack is poorly suited for lifting the truck in tight, soft and uneven situations. I saw a suggestion about bottle jacks but have seen others struggle when the truck body is inches off the ground and likewise getting the height needed to change a tire.
I have to say, I don’t understand people’s fascination with high-lift jacks. I find them to be a dangerous and poor choice of tool for almost all lifting situations.
I have a lifted Defender 110 with rock sliders. The tubular shape of the sliders makes them unsuitable for jacking with a high lift without a special adapter. I also have no tow hitch. This means I have zero points from which to jack with a high-lift.
Other than possibly your tow hitch, which will only allow you to lift the rear, where are you planning on jacking the vehicle from? You have no jack points for a high-lift on the vehicle. It will do you no good at all. I suggest you ditch your new roof ornament and get a bottle jack and jack base instead.
I have a new Defender,. I bought a bottle jack. The standard jack has a "V" to fit the wedge jack point on the car. The Bottle Jack just has a flat round contact point. How do I use the Bottle Jack? Do I need to buy a fitting?
Using a bottle jack or floor jack under a Defender at home on the driveway or in the garage is no problem whatsoever. There are large, flat jack pads on the front and rear sub-frames https://www.lrdefender.org/prelimina...cking-332.html (#2 in the pics on the page)
Originally Posted by littledetails
I have to say, I don’t understand people’s fascination with high-lift jacks. I find them to be a dangerous and poor choice of tool for almost all lifting situations.
I have a lifted Defender 110 with rock sliders. The tubular shape of the sliders makes them unsuitable for jacking with a high lift without a special adapter. I also have no tow hitch. This means I have zero points from which to jack with a high-lift.
Other than possibly your tow hitch, which will only allow you to lift the rear, where are you planning on jacking the vehicle from? You have no jack points for a high-lift on the vehicle. It will do you no good at all. I suggest you ditch your new roof ornament and get a bottle jack and jack base instead.
I agree with some of this and disagree completely with other portions of this post.
First, a Hi-Lift jack can come across as rickety or wobbly because it does exactly what it says on the box: it lifts high. Lifting to the heights a normal hydraulic jack will lift to, a Hi-Lift jack would be just as solid on pavement, and in most situations much more stable off road due to its larger foot and built in flexibility - provided the Hi-Lift is lifting off of a secure attachment point. And that is the crux of the matter (as mentioned above): adapters. There is no way I can imagine lifting a Defender off the V-shaped lifting blocks without some sort of adapter to secure the jack. And I would not even be happy lifting off of a tubular rock slider in any situation but on pavement with all right angles and the car stopped very securely (meaning at least one of the rear wheels firmly on the ground with the handbrake activated or chocks) or with the jack secured to the rock slider.
The adapters you generally see if you search for Hi-Lift adapters and Defender are square on one side with a locking pin for the arm on the jack and round on the other to fit into a receptacle attached to the vehicle - often in steel off road bumpers or rock sliders for an old Defender. The old Defender's square steel bumpers also lent themselves for lifting directly with appropriate adapters. In the other thread going here right now on rock sliders for the 110 none of the 3 rock sliders shown had this option (as far as it was shown, anyway. No idea if any of he 3 co's will add them if you ask). So for a new Defender, the only real option is a wheel adapter (see pic). I could also imagine lifting off of the optional rear tow eyes - but I'd also want something to secure the arm of the jack to keep it from slipping off in anything but absolutely right angles.
The disadvantages of bottle jacks off road are numerous. First, you need to get under the vehicle to use it. You don't want to be doing this on a softer surface or with the vehicle anything but 100% secure. A Hi-Lift is meant to be used (can only be used) adjacent to the vehicle. You generally don't have to reach under anything. Second, depending on the situation you're in, you may need to lift much, much higher than any normal bottle jack will allow. And a Hi-Lift will allow all sorts of other things in a recovery situation that would be difficult or impossible with a bottle jack, such as lifting the vehicle at an angle to place the tires outside of ruts or holes. Not to mention mechanical winching, and all of the other neat things you can do with a Hi-Lift.
It's all a question of the right tool for the right application.
And as far as mounting a Hi-Lift goes, all you really need is a couple of large bolts, fender washers, wing nuts and a place to attach the bolts. If you don't want to get into doing this yourself, see
for amazing options. Storing a large bottle jack is a bigger PITA IMO.
The only hydraulic jack I'd consider taking is one of the newer off-road floor jacks. But even there, limited use (straight up and down), weight and storage are not things that speak for this option.
I have a new Defender,. I bought a bottle jack. The standard jack has a "V" to fit the wedge jack point on the car. The Bottle Jack just has a flat round contact point. How do I use the Bottle Jack? Do I need to buy a fitting?
But it’s not perfect. It has a channel with 90 degree sides. When I tried jacking my 110 the edges of the Jack pad cut into the V of the jacking point and got stuck. I needed a hammer to break it free.
I then used an angle grinder to bevel the sides of the jacking pad to make it more of a V shape to match the jacking point. It’s not perfect, but it wasn’t going to get stuck.
And then I installed the TuffAnt sliders, which completely cover the jacking points. I had to pick up a new jacking pad that has a protrusion that goes into a hole on the slider to prevent slippage.
This doesn't seem like a great option. Would have to attach to a different wheel than the one being removed, which means you'd have to jack significantly higher than would be required at the jack point adjacent to the flat tire. The possibility of slipping due to wheel rotation would also make me nervous.
This doesn't seem like a great option. Would have to attach to a different wheel than the one being removed, which means you'd have to jack significantly higher than would be required at the jack point adjacent to the flat tire. The possibility of slipping due to wheel rotation would also make me nervous.
I have this setup for my Series IIA 88 and it works great. I use it to lift the wheel so that I can get a traction board under it. Then just lower the wheel onto the traction board and drive off.
^ This, exactly. It is more for use in a recovery situation than for changing a tire, although I usually carry a folding jack stand and have changed tires using this cradle.
As far as stability goes, unless you put one of the hooks a 7:00 o'clock and the other at 12:00, not an issue. There might be a very small amount of movement till everything is in equilibrium but it's generally very little. And afterwards it's rock solid.
Thanks Mike. We are heading out for a big trip in July so I will learn a lot if I do not perish in the bush somewhere with the car stuck and the wrong jack in my hands.
06-27-2022, 04:15 PM
Bottle Jack lift point for new Defender
