@NoGaBiker beat me to it!! I'm late to the thread and sorely disappointed. @Eb21 - we are VERY grateful for the update, insight, and opportunity to poke your Service Writer for you. Sharing that with me really made my day. The end of that hose (if you open up the images in Post #32 up above, the second set), you can see what are typically called hose clamps. Those basta&ds are HEAVY duty and always a PITA to open up. Usually you have to use channel locks, get a lot of leverage, because they are tight. @NoGaBiker nailed the usual: someone had a "leeetle" too much trouble with them and they didn't seat. The Dealer didn't "man up" (or "woman up", I'm gender neutral when it comes to courage & confidence) to let you know what really happened. If it was deteriorated in <2 years we'd have another recall and I'd be spending another $2 for a part!<g>. Boy that made my mid-week... Thanks you two!

 

BIrddog, I'm looking forward to how long this takes you this weekend, along with how much PIA it is. Like you say, if the book says 20 minutes I'd allow an hour, including tool get-outage and put-awayage. Let us know what you find. Hopefully you don't have to move the supercharger to get to it or anything.

 

I'm just hoping I don't have any degraded hose clamps after the effort.

 

Oh I would definitely have a box of them at hand and just replace them while you’re in there. Be a shame to do the job and then have to go back in in six months when they all start deteriorating.

 

I’m with you on that. ‘Hose clamp deteriorated’ is the weakest explanation I’ve ever heard. Even on a 10-15 year old car, deteriorated means it is seized on so bad you have to cut or break it off. The average person off the street has no idea what the service guy is talking about, so they swallow it, hand over their credit card and think they are in good hands. I have such little faith in most service departments, since they usually get a commission on upselling. I have an older friend who is hanging on to her late husbands 2001 Jaguar Type S and who probably puts on 300 miles a year going to the grocery store and every trip to the dealer for a Check Engine light she calls me and tells me they had to flush her trans fluid for $800, or replace her brake pads that have 1000 miles usage for $1100. They know she will accept whatever they tell her and keep robbing her blind. Last trip they wanted to replace the fuel tank since every sensor they replaced wouldn’t clear the Check Engine light. There is no more diagnosing or troubleshooting, just keep replacing parts until they find out which one clears the codes.

 

My defender threw a check engine light from the “fix”. And then stalled out in park. Rpms have been fluctuating a ton at stop lights, so I’ve been keeping my foot on the gas to keep the engine from stalling out. Turbo is also having trouble holding boost, driving up an incline on the freeway and you can here the turbo vent every 10-20 seconds. Engine was running perfectly before taking it into the dealer for a sunroof problem. Just hit 12k miles. Talked to the dealer this past Thursday and they said couldn’t look at until Tuesday. There’s also no loaner vehicles available, so I’ll be without transportation while they fix the supposed recall fix. Gonna raise some hell at the dealer tomorrow. I’ve accepted that by owning a LR there will be some problems, but this ridiculous.

 

Thanks for the images! Got the recall service scheduled for later this week and the dealer says they have the parts in stock... I plan to wait on the vehicle. From your images, it looks like all the work is from up top and I assume they don't have to drop the skid plates and get underneath?

My vehicle has run perfectly at now 10K miles, and although I'm hesitant to risk this "non-vital" service, I am headed out west for a long overland trip in 6 weeks and would hate to get a "check engine" light from this not being done.

 

Yeah, it's all done from the top. First thing is to remove the air filter outlet hose which is a huge honking beast across the top of the engine area. After that, the main diaphragm is there on the left (passenger side facing the engine from the front). Then take a hose on the left that can also be readily seen. I couldn't easily see the right side (again facing the engine from the front) because I haven't dissected anything yet. I didn't have time to work on it this weekend due to taking time to goof off and unexpectedly changing my son's brakes. I'll try to study up on how to get all those Land Rover connectors off while I wait for another window of opportunity.


First have to take off this big hog (circled):


Most of it is straight forward. Love me some good ole' fashioned gear hose clamps. I think the next pic (blue arrow), you just push the blue tabs and pull. I'll figure that out.

Once you have the air filter outlet hose off, this big round thing comes off (left green circle). I've read on other Land Rover models that those tabs on the cover almost always break. I'm flipping a coin whether to just order that diaphragm cover now or ground myself if I do. This is the cause of most of the problems people are reporting.

EDIT: The kit comes with a spare cap so I'm just going to let 'er rip when I pull it off. Per instructions, you replace it with a new one in the Service kit anyway.



Then, two hoses come off. One on each side of the engine. They have pairs of seals at the green arrow. One here at top and then one down below out of the pic. I'm still trying to figure out how to remove the hose connectors at the Red Arrow. Heck, I can't even find what they are called!! I'm trying to find it without asking, but I'm sure I'll have to put my tail between my legs and find someone to ask.

 

Just heard back and it is as expected. When the fix was being completed there was a hose not connected correctly on the intake that caused the check engine light and idle problems. They where good in that they acknowledged it was a miss.

 

The hose hadn’t “deteriorated”?