i have been having this issues on my 2022 110 V8 ever since i bought the car new. Doesn’t happen all the time but i have isolated it to when crushing on the freeway assuming highest gear, hit the gas pedal and loud noise/clunk coming from the rear of the car when downshifting. Sounds like the passenger side but hard to tell

i have taken it in several times but they could not duplicate the issue. Finally was able to duplicate with a drive along with a tech. Dealership is blaming all my aftermarket parts including dash cams, radar detectors etc. they stopped working on the car once they saw the parts and stated my warranty is voided cause the parts. i know there is laws and battling it out with the dealership but ideally like to know what’s wrong and get it fixed

funny cause i had the issues from day 1 with no parts added

i have seen some others have similar issues in FB forums but wondering if anyone on the forums had similar issues.

 

That is rubbish for the dealership to blame dashcams and radar detectors. What else do you in aftermarket ad ons? Did you add anything else that may be cause for voiding the warranty? I would call JLR customer service and file a complaint or talk to the dealership GM. A dash cam and a radar detector in no way shape or form is cause for any dealer to void a warranty.

 

Ask them if they would void your warranty if you had a cell phone charger plugged in the 12V socket - because thats essentially what those accessories are.

Thats nonsense. Contact your regional JLR (NA, Europe, APAC...) directly. Indicate that the service that you're receiving from the dealer does not even come close to matching the expectations you had when you purchased their product.

 

Before we jump to conclusions about shoddy dealers. What modifications do you actually have? I've seen posts in the past about a 10,000 dollar total sound system, amp and speaker replacement, sound deadening and new speakers installed in the back, a full aftermarket exhaust setup, urban kit or fog lights? Maybe others
That's not quite a radar detector and dashcam

Not trying to pick a fight. But you won't get helpful advice here if we don't understand your context

 

you are missing the purpose of my post and obviously didn’t read through the post. i do have more aftermarket parts i didn’t list. but as i stated i had issues before any parts were installed. this has been ongoing and none of the aftermarket parts made the issue worse. if you are telling me a aftermarket stereo system is going to cause transmission issues then we are driving a piece of ****.

i always modify all my cars and understand you have to pay play. i also understand that their are strict laws around warranty and dealers need to prove without doubt that the aftermarket parts cause the issue

the dealer voided my warranty without even knowing what the issue is. that in itself is a huge problem

my dealership is fraudulent. they have been changing my email address so the surveys would not get to me. My wife also drives a range and had issues with service losing her key. all of the sudden my email is changed in the system. if you didn’t know the service advisors get bonuses on their surveys. My BMW dealership got caught for the same thing and 80% of the advisors got fired

this is the type of people i am dealing with.

back to my point of the post was to see if there was any other Defender owners experiencing the same issue. I have found multiple owners on FB groups that had the same issue with no resolution. they had completely stock cars. i didn’t name the dealership name as this was not the point to blast them. i will deal with the survey/email address in a separate matter

 

Back in the 90s, the 4L30E in my Isuzu Trooper was not shifting properly because my competition stereo amp was drawing too much from the electrical system... enough to cause solenoid problems. Cost me a new transmission - and the problem persisting afterwards - to figure that out.

Everything in the Defender is computer (aka electrically) controlled. Its entirely possible that extensive modifications involving powerful stereo components could cause issues.

 

technology has changed and class D amps do not draw anything near Class A or B amps. i am not running a competition system in any means nor do i play music at extreme volumes. But i agree that anything is possible

this post is going sideways. only goal was to see if any members on this forum had either a service bulletin or had similar issues as i already found others that did.

 

'23 V8 110 here, no clunk, no service bulletin.

 

I had this issue happen once in my 2023 P300. Cruising along the freeway and then as I let off the gas to let the car coast, as it was slowing down it downshifted and made a really abrupt and alarming clunk sound and jerk. I attributed it to a really badly timed downshift on the computer's part. It was so loud my wife heard it over the phone. It only happened that one time though.

 

One more theory.

I'd look at the rear e-diff. Downshifting might cause a sudden partial engagement of the rear e-locker with the associated clunk from the clutch packs. Repeat the process with the locker visible on your screen. I'm going to bet there is a correlation.

Clunky rear e-diff is a common issue and one that's rectified easily enough if you get to it in time.