Anyone remove the oil pan on a 110 P400? Looks like it can fit through the opening without other major work, but it’s hard to tell. Kind of embarrassing why this is needed, but the tube on my oil vacuum got caught on something down in the sump and a piece of tubing ripped off and is down there somewhere. Total fubar situation but here I am. Have all the shielding off and bolts removed but getting some help as the adhesive is just too much and it won’t separate. Looks like it should fit through the opening, but for some reason the LR labor guide says it’s a six hour job, which makes me think some other stuff has to be removed around it. Anyone ever try to remove the pan?

 

Tartan, I feel most of your pain. The tube on my oil extractor got stuck as well and was worried about breaking off.a piece of the tubing. So…I drove it to the dealer with the excess tube sticking out of the dipstick tube. They lowered the pan a bit and put a hook around the tube and straightened it out enough to pull the tube back out. Cost me $1,000.

I wish you the best of luck removing the pan.

 

Wow, makes me feel better about modifying the under-shield so I can do 'regular' style oil changes in future. Note, i cut a larger opening and covered it with a new piece of shield to keep the protection, but add access for drain. I'll try to take a picture next time i am under.

 

Ouch! I had been on the fence about the extraction method, but had that lingering fear of exactly that situation happening. I didn’t feel confident about sticking the extraction tube down into that netherworld, wondering if it is truly at dead bottom, or curled upwards missing a liter or two of old oil, which could lead to overfill. Glad I went with the Fumoto valve.

 

If it's anything like any other engine component it probably requires removal of the spare wheel to allow removal of a retaining pin that allows you to take out the transfer case and transmission before undoing the bajillion bolts holding the pan in place.

Hope you get things resolved. That sucks. Curios what vacuum extractor tubing you're using. I've thus far encountered no problems with my vacuum oil changes. But I'm no stranger to stupid snafus so I'll whisper that last bit.

 

It's odd...the oil extractor tube was easy to slide in and out of our 2021 and 2023 dipstick tube. I had a real hard time getting it to the bottom on our 2025. It was as if there was an extra curve near the bottom. I had to coat the tube in new oil then spin it while pushing it down. Thankfully I was able to get it back out but there was some resistance.

 

Thanks for the replies. I’m sufficiently spooked by this that I’ll never stick anything down the dipstick tube except a dipstick. I think the poly type I got at Lowe’s was too flexible and got wrapped around something. I also probably pushed in too much tube wanting to make sure I got all the oil out. Never again. I still haven’t heard from the shop whether they can get the pan out. It sure looked like it could just drop right through the opening but maybe if they can just drop it enough to see the tube they can get it out of there and snug it all back up. Might not be too easy to clean out the old sealant though. My wife is enjoying this whole escapade. Me trying to save a few bucks and spending a $1000 and five trips to Lowes to get the right tools. The internet calls this man math.

 

I have so many things I want to change/improve with my Defender!! Arg, now to add the @WTFChuck Fumoto valve.... I think I'll add it to my "When installing the Long Ranger Fuel tank, go ahead and...."

 

I think a best practice using the dip stick tube extraction method is to place a marker on extraction tube at the same length as the dipstick. Then use that as the max length to push the extraction tube down the dipstick tube plus maybe an inch to get to the bottom of the pan.

 

Good news to report! My local garage was able to get the oil pan off and pull the offending tube section that had broken off out of the engine. The tube had caught on a corner that’s a bit sharp and cut as I pulled it out. Definitely never going to use the vacuum method on this car again though it’s probably ok if you use a very stiff tube that can’t bend around the corner like mine did. You still need to go down a few inches below the end of the dipstick though to get all the oil out.

Contrary to the shop manual which says it’s a six hour job to remove the oil pan because other parts have to be moved, it’s possible to drop the pan right through the gap next to the steering mechanism. Thank god, because I would have had to have it towed 100 miles to a dealer to do all that. Local shop used a heat gun and an oil pan tool to loosen the adhesive and all good. It did take two weeks to get the required LR oil pan sealant delivered since it was on back order everywhere. You can’t just use garden variety auto store sealant.