Proud Rhino or Johnson Rods -- preference?
#11
For those who are contemplating the lift rods but don't "need" them to clear the tires you're running... why? Just like the look? (nothing in the world wrong with that if it's your reason -- I can't count the number of things I've done to cars for nothing more than the looks.)
Thank you for asking.
Firstly, I am NOT concerned at all how the vehicle looks. I bought the Defender because I like that we have finally reached a fully evolved JLR 4WD system -- after practicing electronic 4WD off-road driving for ten years in the LR4 and Evoque, and marching through the evolutionary challenges of the Freelander, D1, D2, D3 & D4 -- all in a vehicle which is fully quiet, rides nicely, carries a big payload and tows 7500 lbs. The new Defender's engine and transmission are icing on the cake -- not fully expected to be as wonderful in the P300 D110 as it is.
My current goal is to NOT screw up any of what I note above, as I try to figure out how to solve two issues I am finding at the limit of the Defender's off-road capability: 1) I need a tougher tire that is still quiet (I have very good hearing -- a double-edged sword) and 2) I need to figure out how to get a few more inches of ground clearance -- I estimate the vehicle's ease of use could be greatly improved with not much more clearance.
In tackling these two points, I have the new advantage of my Rock Sliders acting as a step in/out. That is an unexpected plus. Also, I can add / remove the rods, if necessary, as I only go deeply into the Defender's capability when I am off-road for an extended period of time.
Comments / suggestions welcome.
#12
Yes, there are plenty of reasons to fit a larger tire, and some larger tires require a lift-rod to avoid rubbing at full articulation or full lock on the steering wheel. But I was just wondering about people who will install them for an extended off-roading session then remove them for street use, indicating the rods aren't needed for clearance with the tires they're running.
If I start using this on terrain that warrants a larger tire, I may very well buy a set of 18" wheels with big tires and trailer them out west with my stock setup, then leave the trailer and stock tires in Moab and use the big tires and lift kit off-road. Unless the road penalty of the big tires/lift kit is so small I don't feel that I'm giving up anything by just using them all the time.
If I start using this on terrain that warrants a larger tire, I may very well buy a set of 18" wheels with big tires and trailer them out west with my stock setup, then leave the trailer and stock tires in Moab and use the big tires and lift kit off-road. Unless the road penalty of the big tires/lift kit is so small I don't feel that I'm giving up anything by just using them all the time.
I too am hoping to have both at once -- good road manners with a quiet ride on-road and a couple more inches of clearance when in off-road mode. I would hope to avoid the addition an extra set of tires -- to reduce storage space, if anything.
I think the key is to find a tough, quiet tire.
#13
NoGaBiker:
Thank you for asking.
Firstly, I am NOT concerned at all how the vehicle looks. I bought the Defender because I like that we have finally reached a fully evolved JLR 4WD system -- after practicing electronic 4WD off-road driving for ten years in the LR4 and Evoque, and marching through the evolutionary challenges of the Freelander, D1, D2, D3 & D4 -- all in a vehicle which is fully quiet, rides nicely, carries a big payload and tows 7500 lbs. The new Defender's engine and transmission are icing on the cake -- not fully expected to be as wonderful in the P300 D110 as it is.
My current goal is to NOT screw up any of what I note above, as I try to figure out how to solve two issues I am finding at the limit of the Defender's off-road capability: 1) I need a tougher tire that is still quiet (I have very good hearing -- a double-edged sword) and 2) I need to figure out how to get a few more inches of ground clearance -- I estimate the vehicle's ease of use could be greatly improved with not much more clearance.
In tackling these two points, I have the new advantage of my Rock Sliders acting as a step in/out. That is an unexpected plus. Also, I can add / remove the rods, if necessary, as I only go deeply into the Defender's capability when I am off-road for an extended period of time.
Comments / suggestions welcome.
Thank you for asking.
Firstly, I am NOT concerned at all how the vehicle looks. I bought the Defender because I like that we have finally reached a fully evolved JLR 4WD system -- after practicing electronic 4WD off-road driving for ten years in the LR4 and Evoque, and marching through the evolutionary challenges of the Freelander, D1, D2, D3 & D4 -- all in a vehicle which is fully quiet, rides nicely, carries a big payload and tows 7500 lbs. The new Defender's engine and transmission are icing on the cake -- not fully expected to be as wonderful in the P300 D110 as it is.
My current goal is to NOT screw up any of what I note above, as I try to figure out how to solve two issues I am finding at the limit of the Defender's off-road capability: 1) I need a tougher tire that is still quiet (I have very good hearing -- a double-edged sword) and 2) I need to figure out how to get a few more inches of ground clearance -- I estimate the vehicle's ease of use could be greatly improved with not much more clearance.
In tackling these two points, I have the new advantage of my Rock Sliders acting as a step in/out. That is an unexpected plus. Also, I can add / remove the rods, if necessary, as I only go deeply into the Defender's capability when I am off-road for an extended period of time.
Comments / suggestions welcome.
#14
Yes, the smoothness and synchronization between the transmission and engine, as well as the flatness of its torque curve are exceptional for a 4 cylinder, are beyond expectations. I believe that is a uniform impression based on comments elsewhere in this forum.
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Mcdooogs (07-20-2021)
#16
But, it might get old quickly, one supposes.
#17
I second this, 100%. The only time I have ever wished for a bit more power is passing at highway speeds up an incline. I live in CO so sometimes on the highway I wish I had just a bit more "umph." Otherwise, absolutely no complaints.
#18
I started on the rear by taking the tire off. Once I sort of understood the trick of it, I was able to get all the others replaced without removing the wheel. I could probably do it all over again in under 30 mins.
#19
If you don't mind the extra complexity of install and the cost the LLAMS electronic height controller is a way more flexible alternative to rods. It effectively does the same thing as the lift rods, except on the software side, which means you can turn it off with the flick of a switch. It also means you can have it lower the vehicle instead of raise which can be useful in parking garages, or even on the trail. umbertob did an awesome write up here : https://landroverforums.com/forum/20...roller-106539/
#20
If you don't mind the extra complexity of install and the cost the LLAMS electronic height controller is a way more flexible alternative to rods. It effectively does the same thing as the lift rods, except on the software side, which means you can turn it off with the flick of a switch. It also means you can have it lower the vehicle instead of raise which can be useful in parking garages, or even on the trail. umbertob did an awesome write up here : https://landroverforums.com/forum/20...roller-106539/
I do not park in a garage, and will not be adding anything to the roof (due to noise). Also, contributing to this choice was the confirmation that the Lucky8 Rock sliders make a very effective step into the vehicle, so the increase in exit and entry height is removed as a concern.
That said, I hope those that need the this invention use and enjoy it!