https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Ugl...w?usp=drivesdk

Hopefully that will get you guys sorted out in the slider instructions. Let me know if the link doesn't work for you. We are working on getting it added to our site down the road.

 

These are great - thank you!

 

A little patience as this is my first try at google drive sharing things, right now it requires me to approve each person. I am googling on how to kill that currently.

In the meantime I should get you approved in short order.

 

We like to think of it as organized chaos We are getting back up to full staff and things will hopefully start to smooth out. We appreciate the patience and understanding. If I can be of assistance please feel free to pm.

 

Just a note to let all know that I just learned from Lucky8 that my "ready for shipment" rock sliders are still due-in to Lucky8. I am being told January, now. ~ 8+ week lead time it will be, I suppose. I have the instructions (which look very good !) and a suitable plan to eliminate all risk of corrosion.

So it goes. Patience, patience is all that is needed

 

I finally got around to installing the Lucky8 sliders this week. I have a car lift in my barn which made the install much better than trying to do this laying on my back on the floor. Lots and lots of bits to remove. I did the majority of it by myself. I enlisted my teenage son to help lifting the sliders in place as well as holding the sill plate in place. Other than that, it can be a one person job.

A few things that had I known, would have made things go more quickly.
* Along bottom (underneath) of the sill is where all of the big bolts that hold the sliders on reside. All are removed during the process of removing the factory metal and fiber pieces.....except one...on each side. You need to remove that as well. I had the sliders loosely mounted with two bolts when I realized this.
* Sill Plates: With the sliders installed and the doors on the vehicle, I had to slide the sill plates from the rear forward. It’s a tight squeeze and requires two people to maneuver it to make sure you don’t scratch the paint on the car.
* the mounting holes on the sill plates line up with existing holes on the car that need to be drilled out larger to accept the rivnuts. We had the wrong sill plate on the wrong side and didn’t line up. Lay them flat on the rock slider and make sure the holes line up before sliding them in place....it’s also easier to drill out the holes and install the rivnuts before sliding them in place.
* the rivnut farthest forward is a PITA as it lines up with the front door hinge (roughly), so you can’t get the drill in straight nor the rivnut tool. I went ahead and drilled at an angle and installed the rivnut at an angle and it worked out fine. No issues.
* also they give you the exact number of rivnuts that you need. I let my son try to install one and he messed it up, luckily I have extra rivnuts so no big deal.

Mud flaps: I have the JLR mudflaps. Those have to be removed during the install. I was able to refit them with minor modification. I cut a notch in them to fit around the leading edged of the slider (simple with a utility knife) and attached the horizontal edge to an aluminum bracket that is already there. Not difficult, just had to think about it.

When removing the factory plastic sill plate. It’s held on with a number of plastic clips. They all break....but you can remove the sill without braking the front two an each side. Be sure to keep those intact as you’ll need to use those to reinstall the small squarish trim panels at the back of the wheel arch (there are two of the same clips on those that brake and you reinstall it at the end).

The final product is nice, rock solid and will provide tons of protection. Looks good too. Lucky8 did a good job with these. I noticed when under the vehicle that the gas tanks hang down lower than the rock sliders and other protection. Lucky8 said they are full steam ahead on gas tank protection.

 

Guapo:

Thanks for sharing these points. They should be very valuable in two to three weeks when I receive the Lucky8 sliders (finally !).

I will have to lie underneath to install mine (no lift, unfortunately). But, I did just build four six inch ramps and will put the vehicle in off-road mode, of course.

I am wondering two things, if you do not mind:

1. Have you noticed any increase in noise in the vehicle with the fiber pieces removed?

2. Other than the fuel tanks, does removing the fiber pieces expose anything which might be caught on underbrush, off-road?

Thanks again for your help. I will post another response, once I receive and install the sliders.

 

No increased noise at all.

Only thing I recall that could be caught on underbrush is the heat shielding. I need to figure out what to do with it. I’m thinking about bending it back, but I didn’t mess with it since I needed to get it back on the road and won’t be off road for a while. When you get into your install, let me know what you end up doing with it...if anything.

 

Just got mine delivered and will be attempting install this weekend. A bit bummed I will have to remove the mud flaps as the dealer just installed those last week. At least it’s just the front flaps. Still trying to access the instructions on the google drive or get lucky8 to send to me. Sliders appeared out of nowhere without any communication whatsoever after ordering which was a bit odd in this day of email confirmations and tracking numbers, but at least they are here and they look amazing. Got this past the wifey by saying they are the “steps” she wanted.

 

Got the sliders on after a lot of crawling around on my back. Wish I had read your instructions more carefully as I left that one bolt in the sill and had to loosen all the other bolts when I realized it was blocking things. Also broke all the clips and am seeing if some Amazon generics will work. Otherwise off to the dealer as no online source carries the grey clips. I also didn’t take the upper most transmission plate out like in the instructions and it worked out fine. The instructions have you guessing about some things like that one sill bolt and the rear most bolt that needs to come off the car before trying to install the slider. Also fact that you use one small bolt and one large bolt on the small fender plate up front. Little details like that would help avoid time wasting errors.

It is a bit disconcerting taking off so many parts on an $80K car and just putting them on a shelf. But the sliders protect everything that previously had protective steel, like the air tank. There was plenty of powder coated steel under there already, and the bolts are the same as were on there, so I’m not concerned.

It does seem weird leaving the heat shielding not covered in the fiber board. Looks like it really should be covered with something. Will buy the tank protection if the come out with it.

I may never need these, but the wife wanted steps, so I figured why not put something real on as opposed to cosmetic steps that would get destroyed if I do something stupid.

I do have a question about jacking the car up now. Since the Jack points are gone, seems like the standard scissor Jack would be dangerous to use as it could slip on the smooth steel. I suppose a grippy rubber pad might help, but is this an excuse to buy the arb Jack?

now I just have to find room in the garage to store all the parts that were removed. Never know I might need to back to stock someday for a sale.