No worries.

Did you grind the calipers or swap them out?

 

I had them ground. The shop which mounted the tires also does fabrication. Thought it easier to have wheels and tires shipped there and they then made sure the wheels fit over the calibers.

 

Looking hard at the TuffAnt option for my 110x due here in Sept (2022 presumed but who knows ) Getting 18 inch wheels is definitely the desired choice to replace larger stock/factory options.

$’s aside for the sake of this discussion - was any consideration given to replacing the rear brake calipers as opposed to grinding to fit? These Lucky8 caliper replacements seemingly being the common choice replacement

Any thoughts (pro or con) are appreciated.

 

I chose to grind simply to reduce costs. Unmodified calipers from Lucky8 would have been my preferred route had I not been budget constrained. I believe that is what TuffAnt recommends.

 

I actually had the modified calipers but did not like the fact that they were sized a little different. On top of that the X comes with the l'Orange calipers and I wanted to keep that color on the rears. Sold the Lucy8 calipers and ground down the rears. Fit the 18 inch Tuffant wheels with open country MTs

 

The biggest pro for certain jurisdictions is legality. Australia has some very strict regulations and its DOT has fully sanctioned the caliper swap. You don't need to get them from lucky8. The part numbers are in another thread. I can dig them up if you can't find.

Other big pro is not having to grind. The swap seems easy enough to do. (But so is the grinding)

Cons are the cost of the swap v the grinding and any perceived legal murkiness I guess. Modding brakes is potentially a bad idea. I've done a lot of homework on the caliper design and that sort of stuff before going this route. I can always swap later if I change my mind.




Less grinding needed with the Tuffant Simpson. The outer edge needs shaving with the Kimberleys. ET+29. Simpsons are +27. EvoCoarse are +20 I believe. Less trimming with the smaller offset as alloy's center line moves outward. The con there is proximity to the wheel in full lock as the offset decreases.

 

For the record, I did the LK8 rear caliper swap and still had to grind a little to fit OEM 18” steelies. Also had to go to crimp-on-rim wheel weights because there was no room for the hidden stick-ons inside the barrel, except out at the inner edge of the rim (where they didn’t get scraped off by the caliper) and that resulted in an unbalanced wheel(s) even after 2 tries by a good tire shop. But the crimp-ons don’t bother me at all. I hit them with a black sharpie. You can see the two weights at 7:00 below.

Note: these are my off-roading trip wheels/tires. I keep the 20” alloys with OEM Goodyears for regular street use. I’m currently in the San Juan mountains doing the big passes and drove out here from Atlanta with this setup.

 

Great points on still needing to grind and weight locations! The devil is in the details.

 

Just have to ask - do the tuffant kimberley require any mod to the break calipers?

 

It mostly depends on which engine you have and provided it didnt come with 22" rims from factory (different brakes used for those rims regardless of engine).

If you have a D200, D240, D250, or P300, then you can fit the TuffAnt Kimberley with zero mods (unsure of P360, but I think it is true for that engine as well).

If you have a D300 or P400, then you will need to swap the rear callipers or grind as other folks have.