I am offering $50 Venmo to whoever can help me pinpoint this noise (see the imgur video link below). I am completely serious, I’m on my whits end with this one. I have a 2020 110 with the 3rd row seats, expedition rack, ladder, and box.

About the noise:
- Sounds like a metal-on-metal squeak/creak/rattle.
- Comes from the 2nd row drivers side. Had a passenger sit in the rear and they believe it’s coming from above ear level, possibly outside the vehicle.
- Only surfaces on certain roads (generated at certain harmonic frequencies).
- Seems to be quieted, possibly silenced by rain.

Things I have tried to no avail:
- Honda grease on all door/sunroof seals
- Removed side ladder
- Ensured all visible roof rack bolts are tight (are there some likely culprits I may be missing?)
- Ensured the rubber strips on the roof rack stretch the length of the cross bars
- Fixed the rear door guide rattle, removed this variable.
- All seatbelts locked in place, removed this variable.
- 2nd and 3rd row seats in all positions, removed this variable.

The dealer wants $400 to remove the backseats, claiming to be confident it’s from there without even driving it and hearing it for themselves. They are no longer an option.

$50 Venmo, or PayPal, if preferred and a lifetime of gratitude to whoever can point me in the right direction here.

https://imgur.com/a/r6h8QMl

 

Man I really feel your pain. Its kind of hard to hear in your video over the rumble ( do you have a V8 or aggressive offroad tires? ) But from what I can tell I think we may have the same rattle. I've done many of the same trouble shooting that you have.

I haven't narrowed down a specific cause but perhaps a situation that exacerbates it. It can happen when driving strait, but when turning to the right it's pretty much a given that it rattles. If I ever figure it out I'll be sure to post here.

 

so it's hard to hear the noise in that video, and while you've tried lubricating the door seals already that was the source of similar noises for me. The thing that might get overlooked is you have to lubricate more than just the seals around the outside of the door, there's an inner seal as well - and I think that was the cause of my rattle. I didn't use Honda grease, I used Gummi Pflege to treat the rubber. I've also used a similar product from Sonax with the same good results. Also make sure you really clean the surfaces that the rubber touches. That gets overlooked too. Also really clean the glass that comes into contact with the door frame. That's been the source of prior rattles for me too. Good luck. Rattles drive me nuts too. Mine now seems rattle free.

 

Yes maddening. One of the old methods to find noises is a stethoscope with the end removed and just an open hose. You can also do this with a directional microphone and a set of headphones. I would recommend an assistant to do this, hard to drive and listen. Simply move it around slowly to localize the noise. Many times the actual noise generator will be on the opposite side of the car. Wheel originated noises have a nasty habit of tricking you this way. There is also several apps for your iPhone that will generate a frequency display and intensity bars of sound. I would tape some cardboard around the base of your phone, like a dog's cone of shame, to make the microphone more directional. I got an app called Sonic Tools, seems to work and I think was more or less free.

Good luck.

 

Thats the noise from the roof rack you’re hearing - as well as some Duratracs. lol. I’m not so bothered by the drone noise as much as I am rattles. The car sounds like it’s about to shake itself apart at times. I’m impressed with the quality of the car in some areas but it’s severely lacking in others.

For me, the noise mainly seems to happen when driving straight at around 30-45 mph.

To add to my pain, I broke the cover for my ladder while removing it - doh. I might get the Lucky 8 one anyways and sell this one with after ordering a new replacement cover.

 

Appreciate the pointers. I have yet to try GummiPfledge, but I’m not sure the issue here is related to the windows squeaking. I’ve gone the full 9 yards on the seals, wiped them down with alcohol before applying the grease, etc.

This rattle really sounds like it’s metal creaking/rattling against metal. It’s difficult to capture on video, I’ll see if I can get a better one.

 

https://landroverforums.com/forum/20...-1k-mi-117301/

Check this out, just in case. I have the same issue and I could have sworn it was coming from the 2nd row seats at first. I wasn't able to identify it until I found the above thread.

Probably not it, but worth a thought. You never know...

 

Appreciate the reply. I also thought of this but am almost certain it is not the cause. Most videos I’ve watched of that problem seem to indicate that sound would a) be much louder, b) be more akin to a “knocking”, and c) be constant.

 

I have a similar rattle and tried similar fixes - even the shin-etsu grease which was great for background noise and much better sealing of the cabin but no good for the rattle unfortunately.

 

Are you out of warranty already? If not, and if you're in the US (other places likely as well), the dealer shouldn't be charging you anything for this.

Beyond that, find a shop with chassis ears at least. They're often a pain, but can be useful for stuff like this.

Better yet, find a shop with a Pico scope that has NVH and time domain capabilities. This could be very hard, but multiple manufacturers support it, Mercedes for sure and I think BMW also, so if JLR hasn't jumped on board already they might in the next 5-10 years lol. I could have your noise pinpointed to about a one inch square within about 30 minutes assuming a bunch of panels or parts don't need to be removed to access the source and also assuming the noise happens regularly. There are independent shops running Pico as well, but another difficult thing is finding someone who actually knows how to run it efficiently. It isn't hard at all, it's just new tech that a lot of people haven't done much or any training on. Honestly I think an MB dealer would be your best bet here, if you can get them to bother with your LR, as MB very recently did a big Pico training push. If you want to go that route, your best bet will be to talk to their shop foreman and explain your situation. Mention the Pico, and don't ask them to actually fix it unless they want to, just pinpoint with Pico. Obviously you'll be paying their prices, and they'll probably want you to authorize 3-ish hours up front. All that being said, not all MB dealers, or BMW, or whoever, will have a Pico even if they know what it is, partially because they're not cheap. And even if they do have one, they may not have the sensors for noise diagnosis.

$50 lol

Good luck