Yes! If you could share the parts list, that would be so nice!

I'm planing to do this very soon! Thanks so much

 

Removed the 3rd row, installed the Goose Gear plate and double drawer system. (Sorry in advance, car is dirty!)

 

​​hey ​​@Jhyun ! here is a list of what i ordered. i have an x, so it required the x grille and h-panels. i ordered, but did not need the parking aid sensor.

i also ordered the lucky 8 binnacle switch. however i didnt use it... opting instead to use the location of the blank located by the parking break. went with triple switch in that location to control the s8 white and amber functions.

hope that helps!

winch mounting kit

• vplep0490 (winch mounting kit)
• vplep0428 (winch cover kit)
• vplep0431 (crush cans)
• lr137889 (parking aid sensors) - may not be needed (DID NOT USE)
• vpleb0437 (camera mounting kit)
• vpleb0443 (defender x h-panels)
• lr129440 (defender x grille)

remote control electric winch

• vplep0426

lucky 8 factory winch a-bar led light kit (HAD THE BRACKETS POWDER COATED)

• prs8lbk
• https://lucky8llc.com/collections/de...ed-light-kit-1

rocker switch toggle on-off-on

• Amazon
  Amazon

 

I knocked the everliving crap out of my factory metal skid plate under the engine this past weekend on a rock outside of Bend OR. It barely barely dented it ( not the thing up front by the recovery point, the piece under the engine).. It did give me pause that "oh crap, I'm driving the one without rock sliders today" feeling. My D2 and RRC both have sliders.

Notably, this same rock then bent a the frame/firewall/transfer case crossmember under a D2 in our group. It nailed the crossmember so hard, it bent the frame, which bent up the firewall -- which was noticeable at hood / windshield area. Also pushed the crossmember up into the transfer case which failed/leaked its fluid out. Felt bad for the guy, hope it works out. Quite sad actually I think it might be a write-off.

Moral of the story: The factory under engine skid plate on our L663 is actually not as weak as we might think it is. Probably an unpopular theory given all the slider/underside protection threads, but I couldn't believe I didn't have more damage. I was expecting a huge dent or hole in the aluminum panel.

 

Good to know @nashvegas

Great looking picture there. Sounds like a great day of wheeling. Bend is a really beautiful spot. Just been the once in summer. 6 hour drive. Hope to ski Mt. Bachelor one day.

 

Inspiration for this weekend as I start to install my sliders! I'm pausing thinking I should Raptor spray it first. Great story and thanks for sharing.

 

Definitely coat the sliders. The powder coating on the sliders are done well...however they scratch very easily and expose the steel. I have seen the Lucky8 sliders go to bare metal after a light wheeling day. I have mine Line-X'ed and have hammered on the offroad that the coating is still going strong. They are a pain to install and I wouldn't want to remove them to coat them again. If you get it coated it's best to do it while they are off so the coating gets to al the surfaces.

I didn't Line-X the sills because it would be not be a smooth surface and would not allow the door weather stripping to sit flush against it or against the body of the defender. I painted the bolts that hold on the stills, I also used stainless steel riv-nuts for the still, the Lucky 8 riv-nuts were not stainless (Aluminum and vary weak).

The bolts were not Line-X'ed due to having to install them and that may have damaged the coating on the bolts during installation, I am planning on getting them touched up with Line-X or a DYI bedliner product when I get a chance, but the paint is holding up ok so far, but will definitely will wear off with use. The tread plates are a must have in my eyes, without them I don't think the usability as a step is there especially in wet/muddy conditions. I used all stainless hardware for the treadplates I sourced locally. I used a carriage bolt, it has a smooth rounded head with a square neck underneath that locked into the tread plate while it was being tightened.

I also added stainless washers, lock washers, and nylon lock nuts to the tread plate hardware, and plenty of anti-seize on every nut and bolt for the sliders, still, tread plates, mud flaps, and fiberboards hardware (my hands looked like the tin man after the install). I did not want the stainless hardware to gall when I was tightening everything down and ruin the threads.

 

Brilliant advice @gschmitt . I'll do something that I'm extremely poor at: be patient. I'm traveling next week and was hoping to have it ready for this year's SCARR. Maybe not. I was debating doing my own Raptor, I think I'll just punt on the pita and have it Line-X'd. I'll try to make an appointment for next Friday so that I can hit it over the weekend. I was also thinking of not doing the sills. You sold me. I was also planning on anti-seizing everything as well. I'm religious with using a torque wrench as well. I recently had to deal with taking off the lug nuts on my 2500 that some yard-ape used an air wrench on. Reinforces why I should always do things myself. Anyway, I lost a lug nut trying to to work them off. It was, however, an excellent refresher on some of the more descriptive profanity that my father taught me long ago.

Since I'm now packing things up for the next week or two, I have time to order stuff I might need. The trim clips should be here shortly. Do you remember what sized nylon washers you used? I'll order those, too. Finally, I got the step inserts as well. Did you have them Line-X'd separately or did you attach them first. Thanks again for the sage advice.

{BTW - Since I'm likely going to get them Line-X'd, I'll probably get a small amount of Raptor to use to coat any exposed bolts/nuts after assembly and then have on hand to touch anything up after I try to hammer the "heck" out of it on the trail...}

 

I sourced my own Stainless Steel hardware for the tread plates (Stainless Steel Carriage bolts, nylon insert lock nuts, fender washers, lock washers).
Hardware: 12 carriage bolts, 24 fender washers, 12 nylon insert lock nuts, 12 lock washers ( I don't remember the specs of them...sorry).

I had the tread plated Line-X'ed separately, then attached them. I wanted to make sure the bars were completely coated, furthermore the tread plates are Aluminum, the process of prepping the metal was different compared to the steel sliders (as told to me by my Line-X guy).

 

Loving this thread and the other sliders thread, as sliders are on my list eventually.

I did want to open up one point -- @GCSchmidt -- re: "I also used stainless steel riv-nuts for the still, the Lucky 8 riv-nuts were not stainless (Aluminum and vary weak)."

The sills are aluminum, right? (did you mean sills by "stills"... I think it autocorrected).

So -- If you're using stainless riv-nuts in the aluminum car body / frame, this might be something to reconsider. It may seem counter intuitive but it's my understanding that this is a major no no in automotive assembly. Galvanic corrosion, and not a question of if, but _when_ and it can move relatively quickly through surface coatings even if protected from the environment (ie paint).

My guess is this is why they might ship these with aluminum riv-nuts.