What to get checked while under final period warranty?
My factory warranty period has seven months before a 2-year CPO kicks in.
I have a MY 2021 P400 SE, 22k miles. The only warranty repairs I've had done since getting it in May 2024 have been a broken sunroof and the usual a-pillar issues that it's known for. The GAP tool helped me avoid a couple of trips with PIVI and light issues and saved me the inconvenience.
I've done a lot of research and learned the Defender's typical issues. Are there any specific things you'd suggest I check out that are relatively unknown? The air suspension is my biggest concern since CPO doesn't cover suspension. Not many other options besides clear view and heated/cooled seats.
Is there anything I might want to intentionally "prematurely wear" under factory warranty to save myself money in the long run?
I have a MY 2021 P400 SE, 22k miles. The only warranty repairs I've had done since getting it in May 2024 have been a broken sunroof and the usual a-pillar issues that it's known for. The GAP tool helped me avoid a couple of trips with PIVI and light issues and saved me the inconvenience.
I've done a lot of research and learned the Defender's typical issues. Are there any specific things you'd suggest I check out that are relatively unknown? The air suspension is my biggest concern since CPO doesn't cover suspension. Not many other options besides clear view and heated/cooled seats.
Is there anything I might want to intentionally "prematurely wear" under factory warranty to save myself money in the long run?
Same question. When I purchased CPO it was stated to cover all items outside of normal wear items. Will have to go back and heck my CPO documentation, but please let us know source.
I'm almost positive that CPO covers everything other than your usual wear & tear items, which includes suspension bushings. The air suspension is pretty solid. JLR air suspension has come a long way and you can easily get 150k miles on original springs as long as you take care of them.
As for other things, I'd have them go over all of the coolant pipes to make sure there are no leaks. Have them pressure test it overnight to make sure everything is in order. Also have them go through any rattling interior trim pieces, and have them make sure the rear shock tower bolt isn't loose. If it is, you will get a rattle coming from the cargo area over bumps and rough pavement.
As for other things, I'd have them go over all of the coolant pipes to make sure there are no leaks. Have them pressure test it overnight to make sure everything is in order. Also have them go through any rattling interior trim pieces, and have them make sure the rear shock tower bolt isn't loose. If it is, you will get a rattle coming from the cargo area over bumps and rough pavement.
Also not sure if this is a 90 or 110, but if it is a 90 have them open the battery tray (or pull yourself if comfortable) and check for water intrusion. Just got mine back after two weeks isolating and repairing the source of the leak. No visible evidence of water in the cabin, only discovered when they were troubleshooting source of battery drain. My understanding is it is a rare issue for the D90, but would be costly to deal with it out of warranty.
I would bring it to an independent shop and have them do an inspection. Our indy does pre-purchase inspections of used cars, and I've used them for years to inspect mine. They told me I could have them run through the Defender before the warranty ran out so I could bring in a list of concerns for the dealer/service to check out. At least that way you don't have the dealer/service missing something and you get a second set of eyes.
Be clear with your indy that you don't just want a safety inspection, you want them to dig deep and look for weeping seals, worn bushings, coolant line/connections, etc...
Be clear with your indy that you don't just want a safety inspection, you want them to dig deep and look for weeping seals, worn bushings, coolant line/connections, etc...
Take me with a grain of salt, but the very thought of giving my vehicle to anyone causes an acute allergic reaction.
I just had the dealership do "a simple injector recall work" on my other vehicle - and this immediately caused cylinder misfires (for which I had them to take the vehicle back and seriously insist on them diagnosing the issue instead of saying "we can't reproduce it" - took three days), which then necessitated the spark plug and coil replacement (for which they quoted me exactly x10 of what it took me to spend to do it with OEM components), with a followup MAP sensor replacement which was not in the way of the injector replacement path to begin with. All of that on a car that's been mostly problem free for 10+ years.
Some mysteries are better left unsolved.
I just had the dealership do "a simple injector recall work" on my other vehicle - and this immediately caused cylinder misfires (for which I had them to take the vehicle back and seriously insist on them diagnosing the issue instead of saying "we can't reproduce it" - took three days), which then necessitated the spark plug and coil replacement (for which they quoted me exactly x10 of what it took me to spend to do it with OEM components), with a followup MAP sensor replacement which was not in the way of the injector replacement path to begin with. All of that on a car that's been mostly problem free for 10+ years.
Some mysteries are better left unsolved.
@Vadiable Paradox I get what you're saying, but at some point someone else will need to work on your vehicle.. unless you are a JLR certified tech with your own scan tools... Don't be afraid of the things in your closet...
@Vadiable Paradox I get what you're saying, but at some point someone else will need to work on your vehicle.. unless you are a JLR certified tech with your own scan tools... Don't be afraid of the things in your closet...
My own recipe against the skeletons is - a well equipped workshop. Latest addition, courtesy of sheer luck and circumstances, is Thinkscan 689 that got me out of the above predicament. Not endorsing it but it ostensibly does support JLR as well.
I do realize that Fear, Uncertainty, Doubt is a great wall between anyone and their vehicle, but given the fact that the dealer would usually charge one hour labor for even taking the vehicle in (and it is $275 where I am), spending about twice that much for even a half-decent scanner *once* is likely going to pay back dearly - you will not go there unprepared telling them "tell me what's wrong", but armed with actual knowledge gained by a simple system scan. And in all honesty, the answer to "tell me what's wrong" may be truthfully very expensive, for everything breaks and it's just a matter of priorities when deciding what to take care of first.
To get this rant back into a constructive channel - OP, get a hold of a scanner (some auto tool chains rent them for free) and run a scan. It is not unheard of that a vehicle that never displayed any kind of warning on the dashboard will yield a few pages of manufacturer specific codes - often ignorable, but most of the time with some telltale signs of what you need to check deeper.
Goes without saying, this is just one of the things on the exit checklist.
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