I'm making this build thread so others can see it is possible to do more with your LR3 stereo system and perhaps this thread will give you ideas or answer some questions for you.
There are also several threads here: https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/in-ca...s-d3-vf36.html
That can help answer questions about replacing upper screens, incorporating Apple car play, adding tablets, etc.

This thread is not meant to replace any other sources, just add too if you will.

These came with three different levels of stereo systems from the factory. The low level system is easier for consumers to upgrade and modify because they don't come with the MOST integrated systems I believe.
The mid and high level systems both have the MOST fiberoptic system installed from the factory. If you want to upgrade your head unit to a touchscreen or something else, you would need a special adapter similar to this one https://avinusa.com/most-fiber-optic...reelander.html

Not all MOST adaptors are the same and with some of them, you still loose your clock on your gauge display.
BUT for this build we will be BYPASSING ALL THAT B.S.

I love high quality sound systems that can get loud. I find the my LR3 with the Harmon Kardon system as mediocre and missing a-lot of low end. Also, when you turn it up, these stock speakers definitely start distorting way before they should imo

This build difficulty level is high. If you want to do similar, it will take lots of time and would probably cost you at least 30 hours of labor having a professional car audio shop do it.
Also, during this build we are deleting the third row seats. I do not need them anyway, and my driving experience is more important.

Here is the parts list
Tweeters: Stereo Integrity M25 mkII
Midrange: Stereo Integrity M3 Carbon Midrange
Midbass: Stereo Integrity TM8
Subwoofer/s: Stereo Integrity BM11 AND two Stereo Integrity SQL 12's

Sound deadening:
Amazon basics CLD And Siless 3 in 1

Amplifiers:
Incriminator Audio Ix 3.4 (two of these)
Incriminator Audio Ix 2.1

DSP:
Minidsp 8x12 w Dirac live

First lets address the tweeters. These tweeters are too big to fit in the stock location so we had to do some fiber glass modification
The red ring I am holding in the pic is 3d printed from a friend of mine
The second pic is a test fit after plastic welding the ring to the stock tweeter mount

 

Here is the tweeter mount with some panty hose on it to create a base for the fiberglass


and the last pic is the tweeter mount with body filler, almost ready to wrap

 

Ready for the vinyl:

all wrapped:


And installed




I did both like this so I’m not posting the passenger side. It’s similar

 

Next we’ll tackle the doors
while on the doors we may as well fix the damn actuators. I need to be able to lock the truck afterall

Those red circles were where I was thinking of mounting my new 8in midbass and the 3.5in midrange but after measurements, I decided against that



After some investigation and thought about where to install my 8in midbass, I’ve decided to stick them in factory location and trim the door metal. Pics of that coming

so the factory speaker grill on the door panel is only 6.5 in. So that will be enlarged to work for the new 8in speakers. I want that to look as oem as possible so that will be interesting

 

Before we do any cutting of the doors, let’s make sure to deaden them.
The sound deadner will help slow acoustic waves and lower the doors resonance. There is a product called mass loaded vinyl (MLV) that we will not be using right now . I mention it only because, if you want to reduce exterior noise, doing a layer of MLV would be the next step. If you are building an overland rig where you are camping inside, I would recommend it in edition to some additional insulating products.

I will eventually go back and add that.




also a note for anyone doing this I suggest inserting butyl rope between the door impact bar and the door skin. But if you don’t have butyl rope, you can wedge some of your deadner in there. See below

 

Ok so we’ll come back to cutting the doors.

Here is some info about the rear sub in the liftgate
after removing the trim and some screws we get down to this


and we need to measure the depth..







basically, the depth is 3in at the bottom and @4 at the deepest. Without the added sound deadening. There are some holes in the panel that need to be sealed to make the lift gate door more like an actual subwoofer enclosure. So we’ll address that

 

Let’s get back on the doors. First we’ll use our 3D printed adapter to draw a line and see what to trim:

then we want to use something to prevent metal shavings from getting in the car or damaging the glass.
You definitely need to cover the window because the metal shavings WILL pit the glass. Ask me how I know

so it’s cut and grinded and will need some primer. Well do that after we get a complete test fit in


and finally, we are putting a groove for the speaker wires to run behind the speaker. We are doing this because the lr3 has the oem speaker connected outside of the door on the side and the new speaker will have the connections behind it

 

We are attaching the adapter using rivnuts

in that pic you can barely see the m5 bolts we are using.

 

So this is a three way system so the plan is to mount the midrange in the door panel. With the midbass being in the door like factory

Best thing to do is put down some painters tape, close the door, trace door outline, and then use your speakers or adapter to make a template


And the mid bass is installed.
There will be a grill that looks oem going over it

 

Doors are not done but we made lots of progress on the subwoofer in the tailgate.



The white board is hdpe. This stuff is perfect for making custom speaker mounts. The new subwoofer is just a little bit bigger than the factory one so we had to make a mount for the new sub. Because of this, the subwoofer sits just a hair higher than stock and we want to keep the oem look so some more custom work is coming for that