You have a sealed bandpass box ... the plexi window is screwed in remove it then the subs can be unscrewed from there and removed

 

Oh I didnt know I could unscrew the subs from in there. I am new to this whole car audio world and I must admit, I really dont know much of anything about it.

 

400 watts won't blow JL 0's if the power is clean. I've blown one (of 2) JL 0 with too much power: 800 watts - and I blew both fuses in my amp at the same time, but it sounded great right before that.

Here's how I tie mine down: Any off road store will have the metal windsheld tie downs found on the hood of Jeeps, get some of those. Get some bungee loops with a ball on the end, they're included in most of those bungee cord multi packs. Now figure out where you want the box to sit considering the tie down points available in the back of the truck and attacht he jeep tie downs to the box. You'll run the bungee through the tie down on the box and through the tie down on the vehicle and then put the loop arund the ball. Tada, now you have a box that you can remove easily.

 

Since we do not know what model they are It's better to be safe and find out what he has first before guessing on an amp ....
Also need to know if they are single or dual voice coils to suggest a proper amp to run the box properly

 

Here's what I have: An '03 SE that needs more bass. I have a Kappa Perfect 12" in the closet. I'd like for them to be friends.

What would you suggest for a box/amp combo that would be easy to remove but still sound good with all types of music?

I'm usually the put it in a sealed box and throw a big amp at it kind of person, but if there is a better solution out there I'm all ears.

In my other car (VW GTI) I have a matching Kappa Perfect being powered by a 600.2 titaniumseries Phoenix Gold amp on only one channel and I'm very happy with it's performance in a sealed box.

 

perfects sound best in a sealed enclosure ... I've seen several that tried ported enclosures and had less then stellar results ....
since you have the rear subwoofer I'd use the rear subwoofer wires to tap the low level line convertor to supply signal to the amp ...
Then all you have to do is get an amp tomatch the subs wattage/impedance

 

Cool, then I'm on the right track - that's what I did in the VW, except my amp is for 2 subs, so I'm only using half of it.