Unless you live in the Southwest.......FAIL.
I would never apply it, warranty it on any of my product.
Done,

Thank you...l was like..."what is he not getting about this conversation?" We all totally understand powdercoating process, 1000%. The issue is when you damage it...period. You will no longer be able to make a simple repair, period. You will spend big dollars again sandblasting and coating, period. Like mentioned above...once the powdercoating is scratched, moisture gets behind the coating and lifts it...causing unsightly rims. I powdercoated my porsche rims, but they never saw off-road conditions and were pulled off and stored in the basement during the winter. I've got steel rims on my defender...and wouldn't consider powdercoating them, no way...no how.

So I located the serial number on the transmission and sent Ashcroft the info. Unfortunately they do not stock this US specification transmission. My only option would be to ship my unit to their shop in England. So I went back to Amco Transmissions and they pretty much dont want anything to do with the ZF transmission. As mentioned before I did speak with Amco over the phone a month ago and they said these ZF transmissions are notorious for problems. They said they would not be able to give me any rough ballpark estimate until they pull the unit and disassemble it. The charge to tear it apart is only $100 but my concern was if they came back and said "to rebuild your transmission it will cost $4,000". So speaking to them in person assured me they are not the shop for the job. I did however find a transmission shop in Derry NH that is more than willing to do the job. They quoted me $1,400 for the labor to pull the transmission, rebuild and reinstall. But that does not include cost of parts and fluids. They went on to say they there are a couple different clutch kits available. A stock version, a performance kit and a high end kit for trucks that take a lot of abuse offroad. I'm leaning towards the stock kit. The shop went on to explain that they cant quote me on the kits yet until they shop around but that they would keep me in the loop about all my options. The rebuild would take them about a week. So I'm probably going to take this route.

I also recieved my 2nd power steering gearbox from the power steering shop I've been dealing with. They sent me all the pics. The first gearbox they rebuilt for me was problematic because the green teflon seals included in the rebuild kit did not fit in place. They were too big so the shop had to improvise. So when I got the gearbox back from them and installed it I've had the constant whining noise. I contacted them and explained all the steps I took and the symptoms and they immediately explained what they believed to be the cause and offered to perform a second rebuild. I was not in a position to take my truck out of commission for the time it would take to ship out the box so I shipped them my spare gearbox. They rebuilt it but they found some corrosion on the inside that they warned me will result in premature wear of the seal. They gave me some options but I decided to have them continue the rebuild of the unit and send it back. Unfortunately due to the corrosion wear on the inside of the unit they wont be able to warrenty the box however.

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While the transmission is not and being rebuilt, what if any things should I have done? Are there any hardware bits that once removed must be replaced? Any locating dowels that should be replaced? I would love to get the transfer case cleaned up and rebuilt too but I cant keep the truck out of commission that long. I need the old girl ready for winter.

Back when I had the Turner engine installed in my old D2 and having suffered a complete failure some folks speculated that there are indeed components where the transmission meets the engine that must be serviced/replaced anytime the transmission is pulled. I'm also wondering if I should replace the flywheel and flex plate white it's all in the open. At the same time I'm not looking to replacing every single component. Just the things that might be problematic when the transmission goes back in.

What's wrong with your transmission again?

That transmission shop that keeps bad talking a ZF Transmission must be talking about some other model. The HP22/HP24 is damn near bullet proof as far as 4spd Automatics go!! I’d still take my chances with a low mileage OEM used unit vs a unit a tech tore into and didn’t have a clue wth he was doing.

Update: 11/17/19
 

The transmission oil pump seal failed awhile back and since the transmission needed to be pulled in order to access and replace the oil pump seal, I opted for a full rebuild of the transmission. I asked the shop to first inspect the transmission in its entirety then decide on a rebuild kit best suited. I explained my desire to keep this truck running for indefinitely. The conclusion was that a master rebuild kit was needed and some of the sprags needed to be replaced as they were really worn. I requested that they replace the oil pump and the torque converter. They also needed to replace one of the mounts on the transfer case. Took the shop about 2.5 weeks to complete the job. Total charge was $2,385. $1,400 for labor and $985 for parts and fluids. After the transmission was rebuilt I brought my truck back to Town Fair Tire to have the rubbish Terrafirma steel wheels pulled and replaced with the Genuine LR steelies.

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The Die Hard battery that came with my truck was having a hard time charging past 60%. I also noticed that when the truck is parked for roughly 3-4 days without starting it up, the battery goes flat and needs a jumpstart. I also did not appreciate the aftermarket battery cable ends the previous owner fitted. Poor connection and not secure. So today I swapped the old battery for a Duralast Gold with the 800 CCA rating. Got the 5 year warranty. To be perfectly honest though, I think Duralast batteries are rubbish. I've been using them exclusively over the years and they always seem to crap out around 1.5-2 years of use. Of course the 5 year warranty allows a free replacement if the battery fails in the first 2 years, but if your second battery fails 2 years later you may or may not be given a pro rated. Maybe it's the cold climate I live in or just a bad batch. Down the road when I'm ready for the dual battery/solar panel setup I'll be sure to go with a more rugged longer lasting set of batteries. I've Also updated the battery cable ends. Afterwards I had the system tested again to verify the condition of the battery as well as the alternator and everything passed with flying colors.

Next I need to track down whatever is causing a longstanding trouble code I've had for about a year now. P0441. Incorrect purge flow or something the rather. I assume it has something to do with the secondary air injection system. I've already replaced the sai reservoir, the pump, the purge valve itself and some of the sai hoses/lines atop the engine. The only thing I have not replaced is the hose that connects to the back of the purge valve. WTV000060G. Seems US merchants are retailing the assembly at over $300. I've emailed John Craddock and Rimmerbros to see if they can source it for me.

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Most batteries today are made by Johnson Controls makes about every battery out there minus Odyssey. When you replaced the Purge Control Valve what brand did you install? I personally prefer the Hyundai Unit to the Bosch one. DO NOT use the ones from Dorman or BWD that you normally get at a local auto store. Those do not last long. Should be able to source the entire line from a junk yard for cheap.

I've yet to familiarize myself with all the battery available. I live in a cold climate so the most important factors are cold weather performance and longevity. I cant remember if I went with the purge valve from Atlantic British or the genuine one from John Craddock. Certainly was not a off make from Hyundai or the local auto parts store though. One thing I've noticed for almost a year now is upon doing a cold startup of the truck the sai pump kicks on for about a minute and a half. Noticeably loud noise. I assume the pump is having difficulty filling up the reservoir? Or maybe some sensor is not communicating properly to the pump? It's pretty annoying though. But as mentioned before the pump and reservoir and purge valve are new genuine units.