my 98 disco1
#313
09-04-2014, 07:34 AM
1) They alleviate bushing bind at the chassis mounts.
2) They correct pinion angle, typically pointing it at the transfercase.
3) They put the front axle location back to centered in the wheel arch because they're lengthened a bit.
IMO cranked front arms and a DC front shaft go hand-in-hand. Don't do one without the other. The only way to correct castor is to get re-drilled swivel *****. RTE might still do that on a custom basis. I also feel that RTE is pretty much the only manufacturer that addresses ALL of these points.
So basically I would recommend running the stock front shaft with good ujoints as long as you can until it starts giving you problems.
Last edited by fishEH; 09-04-2014 at 07:42 AM.
#315
09-04-2014, 06:56 PM
#316
09-04-2014, 07:47 PM
I got the pro lines for the transmission they seem fine so far
New fpr showed up so Rovers back together runs great so guess it is fixed will drive it see if the 1179 comes back
My pressure tester still says 28 psi but climbs when I raise off idle, a tire gauge says 32 at idle so I do not know what psi I really have
New fpr showed up so Rovers back together runs great so guess it is fixed will drive it see if the 1179 comes back
My pressure tester still says 28 psi but climbs when I raise off idle, a tire gauge says 32 at idle so I do not know what psi I really have
#317
09-04-2014, 09:53 PM
Pro Wrench
The fronts on these trucks is goofy. The front shaft is phased to mask or Band-Aid the stock geometry not being ideal. Its no mistake the D2's have a front DC shaft stock from the factory, that was one improvement. Typically you can run a 2" lift on a stock front shaft and be ok. Sometimes not though. A common misnomer is that front cranked arms will correct castor and that really isn't the case. Cranked front arms do three things:
1) They alleviate bushing bind at the chassis mounts.
2) They correct pinion angle, typically pointing it at the transfercase.
3) They put the front axle location back to centered in the wheel arch because they're lengthened a bit.
IMO cranked front arms and a DC front shaft go hand-in-hand. Don't do one without the other. The only way to correct castor is to get re-drilled swivel *****. RTE might still do that on a custom basis. I also feel that RTE is pretty much the only manufacturer that addresses ALL of these points.
So basically I would recommend running the stock front shaft with good ujoints as long as you can until it starts giving you problems.
1) They alleviate bushing bind at the chassis mounts.
2) They correct pinion angle, typically pointing it at the transfercase.
3) They put the front axle location back to centered in the wheel arch because they're lengthened a bit.
IMO cranked front arms and a DC front shaft go hand-in-hand. Don't do one without the other. The only way to correct castor is to get re-drilled swivel *****. RTE might still do that on a custom basis. I also feel that RTE is pretty much the only manufacturer that addresses ALL of these points.
So basically I would recommend running the stock front shaft with good ujoints as long as you can until it starts giving you problems.
I don't want to hijack but I have a question. Having had the land cruiser, when looking at any lift over 3" it was mandatory to install castor correct bushings in the arms. The set up is extremely similar to the Rover. As I understand it castor is the position of the center line of the axle to 90 degrees. Meaning twisting. So why would these cranked arms and or bushings not cause the "twisting" movement like on the Toyota? Wouldn't offsetting the arms push or pull the center line? I mean that is essentially pinion angle right? Pinion angle and castor seem very similar (when talking about just one component not how it relates to the transfercase)
Last edited by Shiftonthefly1; 09-04-2014 at 09:55 PM.
#318
09-04-2014, 10:55 PM
Right from RTE.
Product Information - Do I need caster corrected swivel ***** for my lift kit?
Basically when your truck is at 3" of lift the stock driveshaft won't work, you'll need a DC shaft. For a DC shaft the pinion will need to point at the transfercase. Some companies sell arms to correct the pinion(for a DC shaft) while other's arms will correct castor. No arm will do both well. Go beyond 3" of lift into the 4-5" range and the difference between pinion angle and castor is more exaggerated. The best way to do it is arms to correct the pinion and redrilled swivel ***** to correct castor. Most people just end up living with altered steering instead of springing for redrilled swivel *****.
I would avoid the offset bushings. They're a pain to install correctly and just don't last in my experience.
Product Information - Do I need caster corrected swivel ***** for my lift kit?
Basically when your truck is at 3" of lift the stock driveshaft won't work, you'll need a DC shaft. For a DC shaft the pinion will need to point at the transfercase. Some companies sell arms to correct the pinion(for a DC shaft) while other's arms will correct castor. No arm will do both well. Go beyond 3" of lift into the 4-5" range and the difference between pinion angle and castor is more exaggerated. The best way to do it is arms to correct the pinion and redrilled swivel ***** to correct castor. Most people just end up living with altered steering instead of springing for redrilled swivel *****.
I would avoid the offset bushings. They're a pain to install correctly and just don't last in my experience.
I don't want to hijack but I have a question. Having had the land cruiser, when looking at any lift over 3" it was mandatory to install castor correct bushings in the arms. The set up is extremely similar to the Rover. As I understand it castor is the position of the center line of the axle to 90 degrees. Meaning twisting. So why would these cranked arms and or bushings not cause the "twisting" movement like on the Toyota? Wouldn't offsetting the arms push or pull the center line? I mean that is essentially pinion angle right? Pinion angle and castor seem very similar (when talking about just one component not how it relates to the transfercase)
#319
09-04-2014, 11:52 PM
Pro Wrench
Right from RTE.
Product Information - Do I need caster corrected swivel ***** for my lift kit?
Basically when your truck is at 3" of lift the stock driveshaft won't work, you'll need a DC shaft. For a DC shaft the pinion will need to point at the transfercase. Some companies sell arms to correct the pinion(for a DC shaft) while other's arms will correct castor. No arm will do both well. Go beyond 3" of lift into the 4-5" range and the difference between pinion angle and castor is more exaggerated. The best way to do it is arms to correct the pinion and redrilled swivel ***** to correct castor. Most people just end up living with altered steering instead of springing for redrilled swivel *****.
I would avoid the offset bushings. They're a pain to install correctly and just don't last in my experience.
Product Information - Do I need caster corrected swivel ***** for my lift kit?
Basically when your truck is at 3" of lift the stock driveshaft won't work, you'll need a DC shaft. For a DC shaft the pinion will need to point at the transfercase. Some companies sell arms to correct the pinion(for a DC shaft) while other's arms will correct castor. No arm will do both well. Go beyond 3" of lift into the 4-5" range and the difference between pinion angle and castor is more exaggerated. The best way to do it is arms to correct the pinion and redrilled swivel ***** to correct castor. Most people just end up living with altered steering instead of springing for redrilled swivel *****.
I would avoid the offset bushings. They're a pain to install correctly and just don't last in my experience.
#320
09-05-2014, 06:20 AM
Yes that sounds like what he means
A friend and I both have the same 4x4 dodge truck but mine is a dually, same steering but his steers hard and does not return, I keep telling him we need to adjust the castor, the trucks have a DC front shaft
From the factory my dodge has similar bush I gs to above but keyed bolts to adjust the and degree marks on the control arm and bushing, makes it easy to utilize
A friend and I both have the same 4x4 dodge truck but mine is a dually, same steering but his steers hard and does not return, I keep telling him we need to adjust the castor, the trucks have a DC front shaft
From the factory my dodge has similar bush I gs to above but keyed bolts to adjust the and degree marks on the control arm and bushing, makes it easy to utilize
Last edited by TOM R; 09-05-2014 at 06:23 AM.