Yep, serp is routed the right way (i dont have ACE). New fan and clutch, I didn't notice the electric fans coming on but i didnt run the truck that long. Just had to take a breather lol.

I'm sure there is a pocket of air in the cooling system because.. there always seems to be!

Gonna get a good nights rest and tackle things in the AM..

 

I'd be verifying these temps with a IR heat gun. Checking different locations on the block, radiator and hoses. I'd think 230 would push some fluid out of the overflow.

Brian.

 

For about $8 you can rule out the heater core

 

Well. Made some progress but still not there. Fixed the misfiring issue, I had plugs 4 and 6 swapped on the passenger side -- whoops.

My next step was to rule out the heater core once and for all. Unplugged the lines from the hard pipes coming from the engine, filled one side with distilled water and blew into the same hose. Nice green coolant came out the other side, did the same with the other side -- again nice and green coming out of the core. Decided to cross the rubber hoses when installing this time which was opposite of how they were installed. Started the truck and while it still got hot, i was finally getting heat in the cabin -- score!

Aux fan does come on right at 210, so that works. Engine got to hot again so i shut it down -- hoping that this time after it cools things will more on the right track to being KEWL.

PS -- I'm over this cooling issue.

 

Some quick thoughts. PO used snake oil leak sealer, you sure it's not plugging the radiator or the block? Did you get a new thermostat? Are you running green coolant and not Dexcool? Have you watched the coolant move with the bung removed? Water pump impeller...... I've seen a few impellers let loose on the cheap aftermarket Rover pumps.

I was looking at the block deck pics for slipped liner/raised liner and it wasn't evident although #1 looks suspiciously clean and orange compared to the other seven piston tops/bores. Just because a liner is in place doesn't mean that the block can't crack behind it. Liner/block issues are not uncommon even way back when brand new. I hope that's not the case. When the block is heated to the red part (temp gauge) it's not very healthy, just ask a Caddy V8 owner. .007 more warp to the heads and they'd be junk, that's about the thickness of two sheets of cheap copy paper.

 

Radiator is new, and i flushed the engine a total of 3 times with various products so i don't think there could be any blockages in the block. T-stat is also brand new along with the WP. All parts have been purchased from Lucky8. Running green coolant.

Which bung are you referring to?

#1 cyl is where the HG failed so it was cleaner than the others -- the truck sat for about 2 weeks so there was some extremely light surface rust in that cyl.

I'm hoping the block isn't cracked either -- id seriously jump of a ledge after everything i've done thus far! I've only driven the damn thing less than 200 miles!

 

Radiator plug = bung.

Brother I feel ya....... Don't jump off a ledge and who knows? I'm just putting it out there so you don't get it raw from someone else.

Thanks on the background, helps a ton from where I'm sitting. Combustion leak test the pig, then you'll know that's good or bad.

If you ever have to redo the head gaskets get Felpro's. $53 bucks for a set. I did over 30 head gasket replacements and tried them all on mine first until I went to Napa of all places and bought those. I beat the snot out of my truck, ran it into the ground and the head gaskets lasted 80,000 miles until it went up for sale as a parts truck with over 200k. I used Felpro on every one of em I did and have never heard of another failure. Some will pshaw my choice and frankly I think they're pecker heads who can't get over their Mothers. I tried kit hg's (the lousiest), and the other two major brands (Erring and Victor Reinz) and all blew out at the fire ring, makes a Rover motor sound really crappy like a card flapping in bike spokes. Every hg that blew at the fire ring blew out on opposite sides, 4, 5 and 7. Also I bought head bolts separately, the kits tend to have poorly cut threads.

 

I had a brand new grey 180 stat that was sticking. Temps were around 230. IR thermometer on the top and bottom of the t-stat should verify this.

 

 

Yep, the bottom of the stat was like 80-100 degrees, so no flow was going to the radiator.

I don't think air bubbles would account for running 30 degrees too hot