Pimpin' my ride
 

I have this truck already two years and it was neglected , because I also have 2001 d2.So now I decided to fix it a bit because I really like how it drives.I know there is some rust but this doesn't bother me , frame is solid.
Isuzu Trooper you see in the background will be used for parts.
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First thing was to remove all carpets and padding and repair the rust.
You can see what I found under the carpet.Drivers side floor is totally shoot.
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Passengers side is bit better but only rust is holding the floor.This floor will go too.
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More I look more I find.
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While removing drivers side floor I damaged the brake line.Brake line was attached to the floor.
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That's it.Looks like I will have to open everything.Rust on the top of the A pillar
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Broken down spout line.
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These is my trunk floor.
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Frame is rusted but solid.
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I already repaired fuel pump.Connectors were rusted and started to leak gas.I replace them with pieces made from gas line, also fuel level wire was broken so I fixed that also.
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To repair my brake lines I decided to ditch ABS , it never worked anyways.
So I went from this.....
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to this
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This is how it looks like without modulator.
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This thing goes in garbage .Believe it or not new one cost 2500$:confused:
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This is my new simple brake line.
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I built new bracket to hold brake line , old one was supported by trunk floor.
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For new members this is where fuel filter is located.
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Rust proofing your ride
 

I'll be following your pimping with great interest.
My advice is to paint all exposed areas with POR 15 paint. It really likes to bond to rusted surfaces, just a lot pricey, like $60 a liter but worth it every dollar.
POR15.ca is near Montreal, check their site. I purchased the "starter kit" and am painting wherever there is a rust issue to stop rust.
Please note that if you get it on your fingers, you have to remove it before it dries or wait untill it wears off.

SD

Wow looks like youve got your hands full with that project. I will agree on the POR15 that stuff works great on frames.

After seeing yours, I am glad my 97 DI is minimal rust in comparison.

I am interested in your brake mod. So you basically just removed the Wabco ABS modulator and replumbed the rest? No other new parts except the new brake lines?

I just replaced my fuel lines from the tank to the engine bay. A 25 foot coil of steel tubing for about $22. I tried to replace the inlet and outlet lines to the fuel pump housing but was not successful, so I bought a new unit from Rovers North for about $105.00.

Does anyone want the old one I removed? The pump and sender are good. If anyone needs it let me know, you would have to use a different top piece, so if you have one with a bad pump but a good top piece, it would work for you.

I am cleaning out my garage so if anyone wants the old fuel pump, let me know before I throw it away. You can have it for $30 to cover USPS flate rate shipping to get it to you. PM me if you want it.

I wont pay $2500 for a new ABS modulator either, but I did pay $0 to pull the ABS pump fuse.

You got it.

Keep old fuel pump , if just connectors are rusted this is easy fix, check my pump and you will see that I cut old rusted connectors flush to the top and inserted two pieces of the brake line , it is still working.

Well I took part of the floor with seat mounting from the Isuzu Trooper.This truck was owned by my father in-law.Great truck but rust eat it away.Surprisingly body is better than frame.He wanted to scrap it , than I decided to take it for parts.
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This is test fitting the Isuzu Trooper floor to Discovery .
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This is Isuzu Trooper passengers side before cutting.There is heating unite under the seat.
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Test fitting the floor and the seat , noting is welded yet.Interesting thing with Isuzu Trooper driver seat is , it can be adjusted not just forward reverse but up and down.It can be moved up to 2 inches.Somebody on this forum asked about it and answer is yes everything is possible.I didn't pick these seats because of these height adjustments , I pick them because I have them for free.
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Actually I have these Toyota Tercel seats that I like more than Trooper's,( I got them for free also) somewhere in the future I am planing to install them. Here you can see Toyota Tercel seat next to original Discovery seat.
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Seat support is tacked in.
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Seat installed in permanent position.
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Floor is part of the cargo floor from Isuzu Trooper.
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I caulked it.
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Painted.
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Passenger area test fit.Those 2x3 you see are to measure level of the seats supports towards the frame.Should be parallel.
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Test fit the passengers seat and support.Not welded yet.
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Look from the back.
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Now at this point I came to the snag.Maybe it is good idea to change my fuel lines while everything is open.Does anybody have any pics of how to do it?

Good Luck, I am interested in what you find with the rusted area by the top of the A pillar by the sunvisor mount. Mine has a similar area on driver's side overhead.

Now THIS is a hybrid!!!

its a mutant.

i saw make it a 6x6 now like that one on youtube.

[quote=hilltoppersx;182516]its a mutant.

i say make it a 6x6 now like that one on youtube.

I have these tires on it , and now I will take them off and put them on my D2.
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And I have these babies from my other build that I terminated , so I might as well use them.
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Little trimming and they should fit right in. What do you think?
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Holy FrankenRover!!!
You're joking, right?
Would the rear door ladder be sufficient to get up to the driver seat?

SD

This is my 2001 D2 I took tires from D1 and put it on, before and after.
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Those Michelin military tires are the same ones they used on Camel Trophy trucks, just in stock size.

There is not going to be just trimming with these , there is going to be major cutting.What you see is just tires without any modifications on the body.Don't ask me to turn the steering wheel.For now it will stay this way parked until I change my fuel lines while floor is open.Other than that these are Micheline XL900 military tires.They are used and right now probably 34 inches tall.Height of the brand new one is 35 inches.Millitary requirements for this type of tires was to be very narrow and tall so that they can fit lot of trucks.Minimum width of the rim is (if I remember correctly) 7 inches.I will check that if anybody dispute it.

Before....
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Now...
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The DI rim is also 7"

Those look kick butt on there.

Now if only they were mounted on these rims...

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is this going to be street legal or are you just going to hack it up into a trail rig? remove the fenders, doors, rear glass, open her up.

maybe half doors.

You mean something like this.:D

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I apologize Tweakrover but I couldn't resist.I was googling and that picture come up so I was hoping to share the laugh.Life is serious enough .As for your question I will make a sketch and show what I plan.Basically windshield stay,front doors stay,B pillar stay,everything behind B pillar will go including back doors and rear door.Instead I will build cargo box something like Defender.Front obviously doesn't work with these tires so instead of cutting it I will replace it.You know how Light Weight Land Rover front end look like , this is my plan.And yes everything is going to be street legal including these tires.They are highway and street legal in US an Canada .Stay tuned.

this thread is out of control

I fotochop picture of Lightweight and this is what best represent what I intend to build.Basicaly this is my plan.
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Its gonna be a sweet beast. Can't wait to see it done. Wish I had the time, money, skills, patience, etc. lol but alas I will have to settle with my DI like she is.

tagged for future reference

Here is my up to date.I removed rear doors and outside panels and made small run in my backyard , well , it is drivable.
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I found more rust , so scraping the body is actually good thing.
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I have seen somewhere in this forum tread post your ride or something like that.Does this qualifies?
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During the demolition I tested my new inner fender.As you can see there is going to be a lot of room around the wheel.And I found more rust , no surprise.
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This is how truck looks right now.Rear end is gone.
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you ought to see if there is an old truck bed you could fit on there, it would probably save you alot of fab.

I like what you are doing, by the way. I'm kinda bummed that you hacked the roof off, it would have been cool with the whole roof over a truck like bed all open to the cab, with canvas windows you could pull down between the roof and the bed.

sorta like this

During demolition I discovered that my right side is not as healthy as I was hoping.So rust repair...

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I cut out what I taught is too rusty...

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More rust I cut more rust I see...under the truck you can see L channel thickness 1/8 , this is my material for repair...

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I welded them together ...

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Test fit ...

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Folding over what I taught it was good...now I see it is rusted...so more cutting...

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New piece in...

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I made end cap from 1/4 piece of metal ...I know it is overkill , but this is what I have at hand...

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made new support body to the frame also 1/4 material ...that one will not rust rot any time soon...

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little bit pimping with black paint and voila my weekend is over.

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This is my favorite rover yet! Keep the project photos coming.

Finally I make myself start the fuel line repair while everything is open.I went to the auto parts store and asked for fuel filter I brought with me , got some fuel line in coil and some fittings.Everything under 50$.Clerk started to ask me for what vehicle ? I said never mind what vehicle just give me the same piece.This is what I got.

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Cutting the line.

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I decide to replace only rusted line , everything around engine bay looks good.I guess Rover was leaking so much oil around engine bay that rust protected lines and frame.Who said oil leaking is no good.I cut lines under the passenger seat.

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This is how I connect them.

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This is connection to the fuel pump.

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This is soldered together.

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I tried to replicate this original connection

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Both lines done.

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Fuel filter.

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Whole line...

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old fuel filter bracket...I decided to make new one.

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material 2 mm aluminum plate

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I wrapped it around the old filter to make shape...

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Installed.

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I tried to start the truck but fuel pump didn't work.So I checked the wiring and notice that two grounds are not connected to the body or frame.These two grounds were connected to the cargo door pillars.I disconnected them when I was doing demolition.So quick connection to the frame with the wise-grip pliers and truck is alive.All my gas connections were solid-no gas leaks .I will sleep good tonight.

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Doing a great job with this, can't wait to see end product. I am shocked at the amount of rust you keep finding. Where did the truck come from that it was exposed to that much moisture? Good job!

move this to d1 section [aka cool side]

x2, this is the only thred I'm still keeping up with on this side of the fence.

its hardly a D1 any longer. leave as is.

Nothing exciting today , just installed passenger side floor today.This is how I measured for level to the frame.These two pieces of the wood are sitting on the frame , so seats must be parallel to them.Drivers seat looks higher , this is because Isuzu seats have adjustment for the height.

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Seat mount is tacked in and rest of the floor is just test fitted .

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Another view

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Tacked in

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Another view

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Caulked...

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Another view.

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I re engineer Rover floors. Original floors have slant toward side , so any water that enter your truck stays in the truck but your feet stays dry ( in process floors rust).My floors have slant towards back of the truck , so any water that enters the floor stays under the feet.

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Because of this modification now I can't close the door. Door pocket is in the way.

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So door pocket goes to garbage . I painted door panel flat black , I am not big fan of this beige color , remember I am pimpin' it.

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