Too many D1's
#162
I've beem super busy with work, kids sports, and building this.
Wife and kids just HAD to have chickens..... Hoping to have it finished this weekend, then I can get back to the truck.
I did buy some 110 front calipers and TerraFirma spacers.
I got the Y pipe, driveshafts, and frame crossmember dropped. Next will be dropping the transfercase and transmission.
Still a LOT of work to do before my July trip and I'm starting to feel the heat!!!! 🤤
Wife and kids just HAD to have chickens..... Hoping to have it finished this weekend, then I can get back to the truck.
I did buy some 110 front calipers and TerraFirma spacers.
I got the Y pipe, driveshafts, and frame crossmember dropped. Next will be dropping the transfercase and transmission.
Still a LOT of work to do before my July trip and I'm starting to feel the heat!!!! 🤤
#163
So I should probably make an attempt to update this thread.Been super busy between the truck and family commitments, but here it goes….
Finished the chicken coop!
Now onto actual truck stuff. Cleaned up the transfercase andbellhousing. That TC weighs a ****-ton!
Stock trailing arm was already bent so I upgraded. Got theProLine cranked arms from RoversNorth.
Took the front ARB bumper off and tested the winch. Roller fairleadtotally seized, solenoids bad, winch cable was a birds nest and had kinks. Butthe winch still worked when applying voltage directly. My first thought was torebuild. But by the time you add up new winch cable, solenoid/contactor pack,and fairlead it just didn’t make economical sense. And my VikingGS-9(Superwinch EP-9) winch with Albright contactor and synthetic line wasabout a ½” too wide to fit. Ugh. So I gave in and bought a 12k lb HarborFreight special on sale for $285. WTH, why not. Anybody want to buy a good usedMilemarker E9000 winch? JAll parts have been cleaned and are ready for reassembly.
Old radius arm bushings removed via the pneumatic-over-hydraulicpress at work.
Gander Mountain going out of business sale. Scored someThule load bars, rang up for $18!!!!!
Bought the Harbor Freight 400lb trans jack. Slightly sketchybut all in all it worked perfectly. The trans went in surprisingly easily. TheTransfercase was much more difficult to install. The case itself is just plaindifficult to get to sit properly on the jack. That and the input shaft hasfewer splines means its harder to find that sweet spot.
Finished the chicken coop!
Now onto actual truck stuff. Cleaned up the transfercase andbellhousing. That TC weighs a ****-ton!
Stock trailing arm was already bent so I upgraded. Got theProLine cranked arms from RoversNorth.
Took the front ARB bumper off and tested the winch. Roller fairleadtotally seized, solenoids bad, winch cable was a birds nest and had kinks. Butthe winch still worked when applying voltage directly. My first thought was torebuild. But by the time you add up new winch cable, solenoid/contactor pack,and fairlead it just didn’t make economical sense. And my VikingGS-9(Superwinch EP-9) winch with Albright contactor and synthetic line wasabout a ½” too wide to fit. Ugh. So I gave in and bought a 12k lb HarborFreight special on sale for $285. WTH, why not. Anybody want to buy a good usedMilemarker E9000 winch? JAll parts have been cleaned and are ready for reassembly.
Old radius arm bushings removed via the pneumatic-over-hydraulicpress at work.
Gander Mountain going out of business sale. Scored someThule load bars, rang up for $18!!!!!
Bought the Harbor Freight 400lb trans jack. Slightly sketchybut all in all it worked perfectly. The trans went in surprisingly easily. TheTransfercase was much more difficult to install. The case itself is just plaindifficult to get to sit properly on the jack. That and the input shaft hasfewer splines means its harder to find that sweet spot.
Last edited by fishEH; 06-26-2017 at 02:09 PM.
#164
Rebuilt the hand brake, I figured with a manual transmissiontruck having that in tip top shape would be a good idea. New pads and cable.
Did a little test to determine shock travel. I love theyellow and blue(4600) Bilsteins, but man does the travel suck on a liftedtruck. Rear is off the ground.
Front maybe had 2” of downtravel!! I’ve got some 10” travelBilstein 5100 series shocks on order from Summit Racing.
Mantec snorkel painted and reinstalled.
Got rid of the old door seals for some good used D2 style.
New side turn indicators.
These O-rings replace the stock ones perfectly for the sideindicators.
Did a little test to determine shock travel. I love theyellow and blue(4600) Bilsteins, but man does the travel suck on a liftedtruck. Rear is off the ground.
Front maybe had 2” of downtravel!! I’ve got some 10” travelBilstein 5100 series shocks on order from Summit Racing.
Mantec snorkel painted and reinstalled.
Got rid of the old door seals for some good used D2 style.
New side turn indicators.
These O-rings replace the stock ones perfectly for the sideindicators.
#165
Of course the tensioner pulley bearing as toast. $4 later atNapa and its been refreshed. Can’t have that exploding on the highway!
Getting at the Thermostat on a dizzy truck is a royal PITA!
New adaptor for coolant temp sender for gauge in truck.
Treated the R380 to some good stuff!
Filling through the trans tunnel seemed like the easiest wayto go! J
Got the D2 rear seat installed into the back. Needed this somy youngest could have a headrest and shoulder belt for the trip next month. Itwasn’t the hardest thing in the world but it wasn’t as easy as I was lead tobelieve, either. Basically none of the bolt holes line up so you need to drillall new mounting holes, 13 to be exact. I’m happy with the results.
Started on the front brakes. Decided to try out the new axlehub nuts. One of these gets used in place of both old axle hub nuts and the lockwasher. You basically tighten this nut down, back it off, tighten it back up,then smash down the spot where the flat is on the axle stub. Seemed prettyeasy.
Also installed new SS brake lines, new rotors, D110 calipersand pads, and 30mm TerraFirma hubcentric spacers to retain turning radius.Still have the passenger side to do.
And that’s where I am. I’ve been waiting since last Mondayfor RoverTyme to ship me 2 jam nuts so I can reinstall my track rod. Apparentlythat’s a lot to ask. So far they haven’t charged my CC and I haven’t receivedthem. Kinda irritating. Here’s what’s left on my list.
Getting at the Thermostat on a dizzy truck is a royal PITA!
New adaptor for coolant temp sender for gauge in truck.
Treated the R380 to some good stuff!
Filling through the trans tunnel seemed like the easiest wayto go! J
Got the D2 rear seat installed into the back. Needed this somy youngest could have a headrest and shoulder belt for the trip next month. Itwasn’t the hardest thing in the world but it wasn’t as easy as I was lead tobelieve, either. Basically none of the bolt holes line up so you need to drillall new mounting holes, 13 to be exact. I’m happy with the results.
Started on the front brakes. Decided to try out the new axlehub nuts. One of these gets used in place of both old axle hub nuts and the lockwasher. You basically tighten this nut down, back it off, tighten it back up,then smash down the spot where the flat is on the axle stub. Seemed prettyeasy.
Also installed new SS brake lines, new rotors, D110 calipersand pads, and 30mm TerraFirma hubcentric spacers to retain turning radius.Still have the passenger side to do.
And that’s where I am. I’ve been waiting since last Mondayfor RoverTyme to ship me 2 jam nuts so I can reinstall my track rod. Apparentlythat’s a lot to ask. So far they haven’t charged my CC and I haven’t receivedthem. Kinda irritating. Here’s what’s left on my list.
#166
#167
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: St. Clair County, Michigan
Posts: 4,567
Received 1,167 Likes
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842 Posts
Lots of good work there.
While lifting the transfer case on my 01, I used a ratchet strap to counter hold the one side, lifting a little with the jack centered under main housing, then ratching the strap to keep things balanced.
My experience with chickens has lead me to believe a dozen eggs cost about $90.00...once you consider the coup costs, feed, scratch, lighting, feeders, watering system, etc, etc, etc. We're down to two, which both quit laying a year ago, and when they drop dead...l'm going to do a happy-dance on their graves...lol.
Brian.
While lifting the transfer case on my 01, I used a ratchet strap to counter hold the one side, lifting a little with the jack centered under main housing, then ratching the strap to keep things balanced.
My experience with chickens has lead me to believe a dozen eggs cost about $90.00...once you consider the coup costs, feed, scratch, lighting, feeders, watering system, etc, etc, etc. We're down to two, which both quit laying a year ago, and when they drop dead...l'm going to do a happy-dance on their graves...lol.
Brian.
#168
Lots of good work there.
While lifting the transfer case on my 01, I used a ratchet strap to counter hold the one side, lifting a little with the jack centered under main housing, then ratching the strap to keep things balanced.
My experience with chickens has lead me to believe a dozen eggs cost about $90.00...once you consider the coup costs, feed, scratch, lighting, feeders, watering system, etc, etc, etc. We're down to two, which both quit laying a year ago, and when they drop dead...l'm going to do a happy-dance on their graves...lol.
Brian.
While lifting the transfer case on my 01, I used a ratchet strap to counter hold the one side, lifting a little with the jack centered under main housing, then ratching the strap to keep things balanced.
My experience with chickens has lead me to believe a dozen eggs cost about $90.00...once you consider the coup costs, feed, scratch, lighting, feeders, watering system, etc, etc, etc. We're down to two, which both quit laying a year ago, and when they drop dead...l'm going to do a happy-dance on their graves...lol.
Brian.
#169
Front passenger brakes done. Swapped out to RRC solid lug nuts. Rear SS brake lines in. Welded up some holes in the Y pipe and used the plasma to zap out a sheared off bolt. Love me some plasma!!!
Tried to start it but no dice. Sounds like the starter is maybe spinning but not engaging. It was a little weak before so tomorrow I'll toss in a spare and see what happens.
Tried to start it but no dice. Sounds like the starter is maybe spinning but not engaging. It was a little weak before so tomorrow I'll toss in a spare and see what happens.
Last edited by fishEH; 06-27-2017 at 08:58 AM.
#170
Swapped in a good used starter and she fired right up. Love the way it sounds with just a y pipe.
Front brakes are totally rebuilt and rear brakes are about 75% done.
You can never have too much antiseize!
With a whole brake system and clutch to bleed I finally broke down and bought a Motive pressure bleeder. If you've never used one they're great amd worth the $50. No more assing around with gravity or 2 man method.
Also pictured are my jam nuts from RTE. Finally!
And of course I just realized I bolted on my y pipe before I reinstalled the frame crossmember. Sonuva!!!
Front brakes are totally rebuilt and rear brakes are about 75% done.
You can never have too much antiseize!
With a whole brake system and clutch to bleed I finally broke down and bought a Motive pressure bleeder. If you've never used one they're great amd worth the $50. No more assing around with gravity or 2 man method.
Also pictured are my jam nuts from RTE. Finally!
And of course I just realized I bolted on my y pipe before I reinstalled the frame crossmember. Sonuva!!!
Last edited by fishEH; 06-28-2017 at 08:03 PM.