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Machine buffing/ polishing

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Old 08-25-2016, 12:33 PM
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Default Machine buffing/ polishing

I am about to purchase a dual-action, variable-speed polisher and some products to really clean up some replacement body parts and then go over the entire truck. I know that a cleaner polishing compound should be used first to break up the old stuff and even out the clear coat, then a "swirl remover" type of mid-level product, and finally a pure wax by hand, maybe even a synthetic hardener before that. I watched videos for hours and its just a lot to take in when the host is name-dropping the whole time. I'm confused and there are a million and a half different products. Since I'm buying the machine at Harbor Freight, can someone refer the couple of 2 or 3 polish/wax I can get from there, and the type of applicator as well. I don't need to do a show-quality job here, but I want an excellent finished product from the buff and do a hardener or wax over that to solidify the work, moreso than a lustrous finish. There are some scratches in the replacement parts and a few in my original parts on the truck and I planned on order a paint-pen to do first, but rather than wait for 1-week for this to arrive, I would like to get started on the job now and see if I can do anything within the work itself to fix the scratches and maybe come back with the touch-up paint in a couple of weeks or so. I need the basics from someone who has done this a few times and the experience that comes with trying different things and maybe messing up once or twice. I really appreciate any advice and tips that you can give me.
 
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Old 08-25-2016, 01:25 PM
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I've always had good luck with the Meguiars products. I've used their swirl remover, wax, etc.
 
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Old 08-25-2016, 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by uoflcardfan77 View Post
I've always had good luck with the Meguiars products. I've used their swirl remover, wax, etc.


Will you list the steps and techniques that you use?
 
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Old 08-25-2016, 02:06 PM
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When I've given it the full treatment here are the steps I've used:

1) Wash
2) Clay bar (to remove all grit and polish etc.)
3) Mirror Glaze 16 Ounce, Medium Cut Cleaner (might have to go to a automotive paint shop to find this, it's one of their professional products).
4) Mirror Glaze 16 Ounce, Swirl Remover (same as #3)
5) Polish (with whichever product you like most)

To me the clay bar is very important. It removes grit that sits on top of the paint.
 
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Old 08-25-2016, 02:47 PM
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This is a good start. Will you bear with me and answer a few more questions, please?
I haven't used the clay before...how does this work?


When buffing, start by applying product to the wool pad, smear on area to be worked, then start machine progressively as it rests on car. move around and polish until the product becomes light and hazy, correct? As if the product is running thin, that is when I would stop and apply more? Maybe work it 2-3 times and move on?
 
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Old 08-25-2016, 02:51 PM
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if HF has this in stock, will probably be my first selection. OK?
 
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Old 08-25-2016, 03:29 PM
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What about the scratches on these replacement parts? go ahead and do everything, then clean up the area where it needs touch-up before applying the paint and basically repeat this whole process just for the one area?


One of these parts also has the clear burned through in one small spot. should I do this whole thing then spray a little clear over it when I do the touch-up paint later on after it comes in?
 
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Old 08-25-2016, 03:59 PM
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Usually when you buy the clay bar it has a solution that you spray on the body part to moisten the area and then start working the clay bar over that area (you may need to spray additional solution). As it starts to pick up the grit on the paint you will be able to tell as the clay starts sliding easier. You'll know when you've got it all. Then move on to another area. There will be some instructions with the kit so make sure you read those first.

Depending on how bad the part is will to some point determine how heavy cut you'll need to start with. Follow the arrow on the left side of the bottle and work from heavier cut to lighter cut.

If the clear coat is gone then unless you have a professional paint gun and the ability to bake the product you're better off letting a body shop respray those parts. You'll never be happy with the results you get hand spraying.

Before respraying any area all the polishes, etc. need to be removed and the part scuffed enough so that the paint has something to bond to.
 
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Old 08-25-2016, 08:58 PM
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I know that a cleaner polishing compound should be used first to break up the old stuff
FYI, you can go to local truck stop and purchase the cheap clay polishing compound bars.
......
 
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Old 08-25-2016, 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by number9 View Post
FYI, you can go to local truck stop and purchase the cheap clay polishing compound bars.
......
Truck stop right down the street. Man I'm going to burn through some money tomorrow.

I was just thinking, we do have pro sprayers and the oven at work but I will have to work my way up to this. But I'm leaning more and more towards doing this myself rather than having my guy do the paint and body work. There is enough film on the Internet to anything.
 
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